"Check Engine" light on after flushing radiator

CONCLUSION- Here's what I've decided to do:

I didn't wash the entire engine, so I don't think the problem can be attributed to any wet wires, etc. Also, the radiator fill is positioned in such a way that no coolant was spilled on the engine, so I don't think that's what's causing the burning smell (I wish it was--it would make things a whole lot simpler for me). However, the burning smell is exactly the same smell that came from the engine compartment after I'd driven down a gravel road and gotten the radiator covered with dirt. Although the radiator looks completely clean now, I'm going to start by taking a hose to the outside of the radiator to see if there is fine dirt that may be causing the burning smell.
I called Monaco & they have doubts that the "check engine" light is due to flushing the radiator. As a precaution, though, I'm going to re-bleed the system according to the way Monaco told me to bleed it. I've also gotten the name of a reputable radiator shop in Naples, FL, that I can take the RV to if need be.
Unfortunately, the nearest Cummins is in Ft. Myers. If the burning smell continues, I think that Ft. Myers is going to be too far to drive it safely. Therefore, I'll see if there's a full service shop in Naples that can have a look at it in the event that the burning smell & "check engine" light issues continue. Thanks to all for your help.

Also, go to Advance if it doesn't reset and have them reset it.

IF you rinsed the engine down or moved wires, check to see if water migrated into one connection and nothing is loose. See Wolfe10s note. After warmup, drive it around some and also, it may take 3-4 ignition cycles to reset the eng ck lite. Smell could be some you spilled boiling off the top of engine.

Monaco can tell you the proper bleed procedure for YOUR system. Some are plumbed to automatically bleed (i.e. small diameter line from thermostat housing to reservoir) some need to be manually bled.

And your check light may be triggered by a "low coolant" sensor. Again, ask Monaco.

Not a good idea.....sorry bout that.

hooligan wrote:
If you didn't bleed air as you refilled the coolant, you may have an airlock. On my Cummins ISB there are two small lines (hoses) coming from the block near the thermostat housing, they go above and behind the radiator, with a petcock on each. These vent the air as coolant is added. Open those until a small amount of coolant comes out...
Air trapped in the system can cause overheating.
Assuming (hershey is probably right) you did run the heater after refilling the coolant...

I did open the one bleeder that I knew about. The instructions stated to add coolant until some of it came out of the bleeder. Weird thing is, none came out of the bleeder. I'll have to look for the 2nd bleeder... or maybe I should just hand it over to a rad shop and have them redo the whole process.

hooligan wrote:
If you didn't bleed air as you refilled the coolant, you may have an airlock. On my ISB there are two small lines (hoses) coming from the block near the thermostat housing, they go above and behind the radiator, with a petcock on each. These vent the air as coolant is added. Open those until a small amount of coolant comes out...
Air trapped in the system can cause overheating.

Thanks holligan, that note will go into my Cummins file. I knew there was a bleeder valve at the top of the engine somewhere but I didn't know exactly where it was located and I didn't know there was two of them. Good stuff, thanks.

If you didn't bleed air as you refilled the coolant, you may have an airlock. On my Cummins ISB there are two small lines (hoses) coming from the block near the thermostat housing, they go above and behind the radiator, with a petcock on each. These vent the air as coolant is added. Open those until a small amount of coolant comes out...
Air trapped in the system can cause overheating.
Assuming (hershey is probably right) you did run the heater after refilling the coolant...

no computer reset
what ever you took out should go back in
your air lock.after filling the rad you have to run the engine to get you t stat to open to fill your block.
after fill the rad you should start the engine and add the remain coolant

With that kind of a quantity of coolant, I assume (I know I shouldn't assume anything) that its a diesel.
Not an authority but there is a air bleeder valve on diesels somewhere on the very top or upper area of the engine to allow you to completely fill the void with coolant and bleed off the air.