Reducing push/pull from tractor trailers passing

Tvov wrote:
Airtabs are still a thing?? I remember a few threads about those years (decades?) ago, but then all the hubbub faded out.

It’s obviously a different thing on a vehicle but the concept is exactly the same, changing the aerodynamics to obtain a vastly superior result.

See how it affects a small plane.

Clicky, clicky …..

Airtabs are still a thing?? I remember a few threads about those years (decades?) ago, but then all the hubbub faded out.

I may have seen them once on a 18 wheeler trailer, but I don't really remember - so basically I never see them on anything on the highway.

brooksrimes wrote:
We have a 2021 Jayco Greyhawk 29MV, class C.

Attached are links for a Hellwig 7180 rear sway bar, a Supersteer SS451 rear trac bar and rear Sumo springs SSR-130-54. Which would have the greatest benefit in reducing the push/pull from large tractor trailers passing us on the interstates?

https://www.hellwigproducts.com/products/search-by-vehicle/?Year1=2021&Make=Ford&Model=E-450+Super+Duty

https://supersteerparts.com/products/supersteer-ss451-rear-trac-bar-for-ford-e450-2021-v8.html

https://supersteerparts.com/products/rear-sumosprings-solo-kit-for-ford-e350-e450-ssr-130-54.html

Don't all the Greyhawks come with Jayco's J-ride system which is essentially bolts-on/shocks. I would ensure you don't already have what you have mentioned.

I am pretty sure you do not have a trac-bar, which I found really helped. Then I got an alignment, added caster, and man so much better!

navegator wrote:
If the RV has the air tabs, what is the effect on a towed vehicle in the generated votex, does the toad swerve constantly or does it track true?

Or does the toad venicle need to have the yabs also to mitigate the vortex generated by the RV?

navegator

I routinely pull an enclosed 24’ trailer behind my C, both are equipped with air tabs. Both are rock solid on the road.

Desert Captain wrote:
I usually am towing my 6 X 10' {8'tall} cargo trailer loaded to about 2,600#. To offset the increased tongue weight of the single axle I added AirLift 5,000# air bags which at 50 psi return the tongue to dead level, 16" to the top of the ball per the trailer manufacturers recommendations.

That is "Excellent" advice when towing something with substantial tongue weight.

We tow, but it's a vehicle with a mere 20-30 pounds of tongue weight, hence no need for rear air bags.

I have a 24' Nexus E-350 and went with 1, 2 and 5 from Ron's list... and I was done. The ride and handling were always been good but when I replaced the original shocks with the HD Bilstein's at 33,000 miles it got even better.

In up to 35 mph winds, even cross winds, and when trucks pass me I have zero issues. Wind over 35 I just get off the road or if in the forecast stay put. Can I feel the trucks as they roar by? of course I can... do they blow me out of my lane, never.

I usually am towing my 6 X 10' {8'tall} cargo trailer loaded to about 2,600#. To offset the increased tongue weight of the single axle I added AirLift 5,000# air bags which at 50 psi return the tongue to dead level, 16" to the top of the ball per the trailer manufacturers recommendations. Works for me.

:C

ron.dittmer wrote:
Hi Brooks,

Everything available helps to some degree all by itself, Everything in combination will help a lot. It is very hard to say if one upgrade by itself will make enough difference. That is why when there is a handling issue, people like myself create a list in priority. If you want to do one at a time, do it in that order. If like me, just spend $2000 installing the list of items yourself, and make the rig handle as best as possible, as soon as possible.

1) Put in the proper amount of air in your tires, per the load carried during a trip.
7) Get a front wheel alignment with your rig loaded as if on a trip.
5) Replace your rear stabilizer bar with a heavy duty version
6) Replace your front stabilizer bar with a heavy duty version
4) Replace your shock absorbers with heavy duty Bistein RV versions
2) Replace your stock steering Damper with Saf-T-Plus steering
stabilizer.
3) Add a rear trac bar
8)Add Front Sumo Springs
I have no personal experience with Sumo springs or air tabs. They might also help. All I know is that items 1 thru 7 together, are very effective for our particular rig HERE. Not only from passing trucks, but the suspension upgrades also improve handling and control, especially appreciated when driving on curvy mountain and canyon byways. The upgrades keep all six tires better planted on the pavement for improved handling and braking. Regardless of where you are driving, the suspension upgrades also reduce driver fatigue and improve passenger comfort.

It is also worth mentioning that none of the upgrades I had done affected the harshness of ride. Our rig always drove a bit harsh until I did THIS. I understand Koni-FSD RV shocks can also improve the quality of the ride, but they are quite expensive.

I changed the order the way I did the upgrades of Ron's list in his post above on my 2011 Aspect 28B.
I did each upgrade one at a time and did a test drive on a designated route I drove before doing the upgrades. (city streets, freeway , curvy backroads)
It gave me the opportunity to see/feel what each upgrade did .
I had the Alignment and Trac Bar installed at an alignment shop (wished I'd installed the tac Bar myself)

The biggest change we noticed was from the Rear Trac Bar and Sumo Springs.
No more "the tail wagging the dog effect" when the Trac Bar was added, being passed by a semi.
We still got pushed by a passing semi just not as bad.

Sumo Springs , no more front end dive hitting dips in the road.

Hi Brooks,

Everything available helps to some degree all by itself, Everything in combination will help a lot. It is very hard to say if one upgrade by itself will make enough difference. That is why when there is a handling issue, people like myself create a list in priority. If you want to do one at a time, do it in that order. If like me, just spend $2000 installing the list of items yourself, and make the rig handle as best as possible, as soon as possible.

1) Put in the proper amount of air in your tires, per the load carried during a trip.
2) Get a front wheel alignment with your rig loaded as if on a trip.
3) Replace your rear stabilizer bar with a heavy duty version
4) Replace your front stabilizer bar with a heavy duty version
5) Replace your shock absorbers with heavy duty Bistein RV versions
6) Replace your stock steering stabilizer with a heavy duty version
7) Add a rear trac bar

I have no personal experience with Sumo springs or air tabs. They might also help. All I know is that items 1 thru 7 together, are very effective for our particular rig HERE. Not only from passing trucks, but the suspension upgrades also improve handling and control, especially appreciated when driving on curvy mountain and canyon byways. The upgrades keep all six tires better planted on the pavement for improved handling and braking. Regardless of where you are driving, the suspension upgrades also reduce driver fatigue and improve passenger comfort.

It is also worth mentioning that none of the upgrades I had done affected the harshness of ride. Our rig always drove a bit harsh until I did THIS. I understand Koni-FSD RV shocks can also improve the quality of the ride, but they are quite expensive.

Rear Trackbar. Many plans available to make your own brackets and a tractor top link connector. I made one from plans supplied by members of this forum and it works great.

navegator,

I can't answer as I have only towed a utility trailer. So far as I am aware there was no swerving.