Replacing a Atwood power center, recommendations

[ComputerGuyInNO]

Since Atwood no longer produces power centers can anyone give me advice on what are the better brands out there. I hope to find something that will just drop into the old slot. It has a model TP3-5530SS. What can I expect to pay to have one installed if I purchase the power center.

[ComputerGuyInNO]

Enblethen,

Thank you for your help. I have hired an electrician to install the unit. I want to make sure it is done correctly.

[enblethen]

I am guessing this is the one you ordered. remember you are still going to have to repair the damaged wiring in the 120 section.
Boondocker

[ComputerGuyInNO]

Thanks for all the help. I ordered the Boondocker from bestconverters.com per Randy's advice.

[wa8yxm]

I would not go with a Parallex 7300 series, As I posted above it is a single stage converter the output voltage never changes, Thus it either over charges or never fully charges the battery.

NOW: you may be able to replace the electronics on you ATTWOOD.

Or, Well there are several that are that size or so close one would never notice.

One thing you can do... If the new unit is SMALLER. a sheet of metal, cut the proper size hole in it and paste it over the original opening.. Done right it looks factory.

[enblethen]

I should have told you that the wire for the shore power is 10/2 with ground.

[enblethen]

If there is no slack, you could buy some 14/2 with ground Romex wire and a couple junction boxes and extend the wire. The wire going to shore power junction box would be the hardest.

[ComputerGuyInNO]

Thank you so much for your assistance, it is warmly appreciated. Do you think I could just take it apart, clean the box and repaint it, clean all the connections and screws and reassemble it? I hope there is a service loop in the romex. If there is no slack, what do I do? Would I have to run new romex?

[enblethen]

It looks like a loose connection on the shore power neutral. A loose causes excessive heat that causes more damage to the other conductors. The neutral busses are normally aluminum and very seldom copper. The aluminum oxidizes which can cause the connections to loosen.
I am a strong advocate for servicing the connections in the power center. This entails disconnecting the conductors, cleaning them, applying good coating of electrical grease and then re-attaching them.
Look for some kind of access to the conductors behind the panel to see if there is any slack. If there is, pull sufficient amount to re-terminate the wires.

[ComputerGuyInNO]

Thank you Enblethen. There is no other visible damage. I thought about trying to repair it but I am worried about what caused it to begin with. The MH sat unused for around four years. I had to purchase it from my fathers estate so it would not get repossessed and auctioned to satisfy his loan remainder. I have already spent around 4 thousand dollars having everything checked out and repaired by the dealer he purchased it from. I need to get it fixed as soon as possible so I can put it up for sale.

[enblethen]

That actually doesn't look that bad. If that is the only damage, it could be fully repair in a couple hours. The photo only shows damage to some of the 120 volt wiring. Five burnt neutral and some heat damage to phase conductors.
Can you post any other damage?
Photo link
You could purchase some new Romex wire, a couple of junction boxes and repair the damage. You may not need any thing if there is about 6-10 inches of slack in the wire behind the panel.

[ComputerGuyInNO]

I looked up the model and it states that it is a power center / converter. I found that the Parallax 7355 is a same-size replacement. I have the dimensions but I guess I will need to keep looking. What are some reputable brands? The electrician who looked at it said I need the whole unit. Take a look at the picture. I hope their is enough of a service loop in the romex to be able to trim back all the burned wire.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B43aZ61IgPWwSGp1dGJpejR2azA/edit?usp=sharing

[wa8yxm]

First a question: Is this JUST a power center (Fuses or breakers or both) Or is there a converter hiding behind the fuse/breaker panel.

In the first case.. Any power center that fits the hole is nice,, I mean there are many companies making breaker boxes and fuse panels.

However I suspect it is the second.

IF the fuse/breaker part is good, and it almost always is, then you can replace the electronics behidn the panel.. Progressive Dynamics makes a bunch of products, SOME are designed to work "Stand alone" like my 9180 with wizard or a 9280 (Wizard built in) with our with out remote dongle (your choice).

They also make another that is designed to fit where the converter is on several integrated models. I **THINK** it is the 4600 line. (Might be off on that)

In any case Randy at best converters (Just google for Bestconverters) is who you need to contact if you have issues.. HE has what you need. and most members seem to like his prices.

Brands and models to avoid.

WFCO is made in China, it is a Chinese company and many report that though it is a good unit when it works...... SHORT Mean time between failure.

Parallex 7300.. .This is a single stage unit, 3-stages are better, Parallex makes some of those too. just not the 7300

[enblethen]

Call Randy at Best converters
Best converters