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rubber gym floor

localhost
Explorer
Explorer
i want a floor that is carpet like on my feet but easier to clean

now i was thinking a rubber gym floor of the same type you would find at the local gym were you pay a monthly membership fee to lift weights use a tread mill

here is the big issue i found a pruduct that can be installed over plywood with no issue its a rubber sound proofing underlayment and this would naturally allow for the rubber flooring to layed on top as they are both made from the same base rubber type but i would rather start from the steel floor and avoid any hidden plywood for issues we all know about rot delianmating walls and such as i am becoming a full timer now with proper a moisture beerier a plywood sub floor be ok so if you do not know of any alternatives i will likely go with a plywood subfloor to insure compatibility the manufacturer of the rubber sound proofing underpayment says normally their product is applied to plywood with their special glue but that see no reason it would not stick steel as its a thick syrup like glue that drys to a flexible stretchable latex like rubber
10 REPLIES 10

erniee
Explorer
Explorer
unless you have a Bluebird Wanderlodge, you do not have a full steel floor
Ernie Ekberg, Prevost Liberty XL Classic

Daveinet
Explorer
Explorer
I suppose really it would help to know what brand of coach you are looking at. The kinds of things that should concern you would be some of the cheaper brands that may use flake board for flooring. You should be able to look up what was used. I think overspoke when saying pressure treated. But often your better manufacturers do use marine grade, which should be water resistant.
When you talk about delamination, not all manufacturers use laminated construction. Some manufacturers glue the fiberglass directly to the aluminum studs. Usually there is rigid foam in the walls. Problems happen over time, so as long as you are keeping after things, in your better built coaches, you should not have structural damage. If you are full timing, that is to your advantage, as you will be constantly airing it out, so it will have time to dry.
IRV2

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
OhhWell wrote:
I'm guessing they mean this:

Sewer Solution

Maybe there was a problem where someone was backflushing and the water went back up their drains and out the plumbing vents or something. :?

It sounds to me like a whole big bunch of overthinking things.


yep, I used a sewer solution for years and no catastrophes, now if you would leave it unattended with the valve shut yep you could blow up your black tank, but as whatshisname sez you can't fix stupid.
bumpy

OhhWell
Explorer
Explorer
I'm guessing they mean this:

Sewer Solution

Maybe there was a problem where someone was backflushing and the water went back up their drains and out the plumbing vents or something. :?

It sounds to me like a whole big bunch of overthinking things.
1998 bounder 36s V10 F53

Effy
Explorer
Explorer
localhost wrote:
ok marine grade pressure treated plywood i do not see any issue with that as i know pressure treated plywood is pretty much immune to rot unless its outside exposed to the weather and the lauan plywood has me a bit worried as i have used this stuff before for backs of cabinets its not very strong and it warps quite a bit unless its well secured to a rigid frame now the fiberglass they apply to it might help with keeping moisture out of the wall but this seems like a not so great choice if it works it works like somebody said the delaimnating issue on the outside most of the time now i am not worried about a flood just maybe steaming up the shower and opening the bathroom door and going to bed or maybe a cooking mess involving a spaghetti water spill its a full time lived in home not a get away what can be done to seal things up if need be i have read about the sewer solution malfunction with the presure release vent valves flooding out a coach my boss wants to use the sewer solution on his coach so we have to either account for this possibility or use a different product now at point does water become a problem is a long hot shower a problem is spaghetti water a catastrophe 6 months after the fact even if its wiped up right away or is none of this an issue


I don't think you are supposed to use PT lumber in the interior as it can be toxic. If you are that concerned I would use tile on the floor. frankly I think you want to stick to products that are standard or at least common in the RV industry. I am really trying to understand exactly what it is you are doing and working on. Long showers and water spills are not really issues with current materials and exhaust fan. Neither are sewer explosions. Am I missing something? Pressure relief valves flooding a coach???? Sorry I am not following. Sewer solution is a dump/flush using a hose. Are you talking about a macerator? Again no pressure. I don't get it.
2013 ACE 29.2

localhost
Explorer
Explorer
ok marine grade pressure treated plywood i do not see any issue with that as i know pressure treated plywood is pretty much immune to rot unless its outside exposed to the weather and the lauan plywood has me a bit worried as i have used this stuff before for backs of cabinets its not very strong and it warps quite a bit unless its well secured to a rigid frame now the fiberglass they apply to it might help with keeping moisture out of the wall but this seems like a not so great choice if it works it works like somebody said the delaimnating issue on the outside most of the time now i am not worried about a flood just maybe steaming up the shower and opening the bathroom door and going to bed or maybe a cooking mess involving a spaghetti water spill its a full time lived in home not a get away what can be done to seal things up if need be i have read about the sewer solution malfunction with the presure release vent valves flooding out a coach my boss wants to use the sewer solution on his coach so we have to either account for this possibility or use a different product now at point does water become a problem is a long hot shower a problem is spaghetti water a catastrophe 6 months after the fact even if its wiped up right away or is none of this an issue

Effy
Explorer
Explorer
Why?
2013 ACE 29.2

localhost
Explorer
Explorer
is the floor bellow it already steel with plywood on top or is it ply wood on top of steel beams then your flooring i do not know what the base construction is for the floor is i know allot of RV haves ply wood much like a house but i thought there was steel under the ply wood

Daveinet
Explorer
Explorer
The only thing I would say about that is that I remember the composition (rubber) floor that was installed in my high school. The first install had an issue with the glue, and it didn't stick. They had to tear up the whole floor and re-install a new one.

If I were taking that sort of plunge, I would see if I could get a small sample to experiment with. Wood is very porous, so the glue penetrates the wood. Steel is not very porous, so it will be much harder for the glue to stick. Usually when gluing to steel, one uses epoxy, rather than a rubber based cement.

As far as the idea of using a rubber floor, the material its self is very tough. I still have some scraps from my old high school. Recently I cut up some small washers for my transmission mounts. It has held up better than any of the OEM washers.

BTY: If you get that level of water intrusion into your coach to damage the plywood floor, that damage is going to be the least of your worries. The walls will detach from the floor, long before the plywood floor rots. Usually they use pressure treated marine grade plywood for flooring.
IRV2

Dale_Traveling
Explorer II
Explorer II
I think you maybe over reaching concerning replacing the floor and interior walls as described in another thread you started. Whole scale replacement of the floor will require just about a complete disassembly of the house part of the coach. The very first item the builders add to a chassis is the floor and replacing it with steel really isn't an option. Plus the weight will quickly become a big factor.

The key to avoiding water related damage such as wood rot or delaminating is proactive preventative maintenance. Every hole or access point in the coach, be it side wall, floor or roof, has the potential to leak as the material used to seal it ages. Periodic renewal of the sealant is your best defense. The includes not just applying new sealant but potentially reworking the seal such as complete removal of a window or skylight, cleaning the base surfaces and resealing.

The factories building a coach do an adequate job of sealing it up during construction but it's humans doing the work with manmade products. In other words it may not be perfect and it's not going to last forever. It's incumbent on the owner to maintain the coach in ways that are more than just changing the oil and replacing the tires.

Your ideas have merit but I think with proactive maintenance a coach would last just as long.
2006 Hurricane 31D built on a 2006 Ford F53