Sewer valves leaking

[ct78barnes]

I am snow birding in Myrtle Beach and we have had weather under 32 . I had the trouble light going and running off my water tank. Both valves work fine but when I bump them they leak water. At first I thought they where just sweating but I think the seal from the seal to the valve broke as that is where the water is coming from. My Coach is a 2011 winnebago and was wondering if I should get two new valves and have a mobile service come out and reseal the pipe fitting .My coach will be 7 years old in a few months . It looks easy but I don't have the dope for the pipes. Has anyone tried this job and how hard was it to do. Thanks

[ct78barnes]

Thanks for all the help I will go get a new valve and see how things go . I have a mobile tech coming monday at noon . So I can always cancel if need be. 50.00 bucks service just for hime to show up so might give it a try.

[Jim]

On my last RV, I had an extra small bristle brush that I used after I dumped to sort of clean out any crud on both valves, than used Vaseline and slathered it all over the parts I could reach.

But that was only the first year of ownership when I had an occasional drip-drip, and only did it 3-4 times. All the times after that first year I just sprayed in there with silicone spray.

I always intended to replace both valves sometime over the next 12 years but they never leaked again.

[ScottG]

Such an easy job, just do the job right and replace.

[Gjac]

As Ron and Mike said it is not a hard job. Just make sure the tanks are empty, then jack up the MH on one side it insure any remaining water flows away from the outlet. Also I have noticed my black tank is the one that gets hard to open so I installed grease fittings at the top of both the new valves and every two years or so I add some grease with a grease gun. The second set of valves are still good after 12 years.

[Executive45]

There's only 4 bolts holding each valve in place. They use rubber seals and no pipe dope. Easy fix and each valve is less than $20. Only caveat is to make sure the rubber rings are seated in the grooves when installing. I used a little vaseline to ensure they stayed in place. If they slip out of the groove, you'll have to disassemble again and redo. I don't like redoing things. 🙂 ...Dennis

[mike_brez]

Dick_B wrote:
In the meantime you could put a valve on the sewer outlet which I did anyway even tho my valves were not leaking. It eliminates the surprise when the cap is removed. CW has them also Valterra.

Until that valve starts leaking too. Then I guess you could add another one. Before you know it you'll have a dozen valves. Lol

[mike_brez]

rgatijnet1 wrote:
I changed both valves on my coach and it took about 30 minutes. They come with new gaskets and bolts and you don't need any pipe dope to seal them. Basically you just need two small wrenches. I believe mine were 7/16".
Make sure both tanks are empty first. :B

X2 very easy.

[Dick_B]

In the meantime you could put a valve on the sewer outlet which I did anyway even tho my valves were not leaking. It eliminates the surprise when the cap is removed. CW has them also Valterra.

[midnightsadie]

mine leaked ,the bolts ,nuts were just loose, get down there and clean things up reinspect the leak and make a judgement call ,I like the mobil tech idea if getting up and down is a problem.

[rgatijnet1]

I changed both valves on my coach and it took about 30 minutes. They come with new gaskets and bolts and you don't need any pipe dope to seal them. Basically you just need two small wrenches. I believe mine were 7/16".
Make sure both tanks are empty first. :B