Steps not going down

willald wrote:

Fleetwood Couple wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
SIMPLE test for power to Kwikee steps. Turn Chassis engine ON. Open and close the entry door. Watch the under step amber light. IF it goes on and OFF when opening and closing door the power to the step is correct. Then HIT the motor with a hammer(engine running) while opening and closing the door. IF the motor has a dead spot, it will eventually start to operate. If so, the motor is bad. Replace it. Doug

Thank you Sir,
This procedure worked on the third smack of the motor. Time to order a motor.

I just replaced the motor in mine a few months ago. Mine quit after just 5 years use (2012 model - see signature). Smacking it didn't help, but since it wouldn't move at all, I immediately suspected the motor, so I disconnected it and verified via a continuity test, that the motor had shorted out internally and was dead. Soo, just ordered a new motor and put it in.

Not a hard job, but definitely takes some patience, getting that motor positioned right, and getting all the bolts in place, with all the right spacers, etc. I'd plan on this taking you a good couple of hours, at least.

There are no spacers and Kwikee motors can be replaced in less than 10 minutes. Now, if you have the LCI/Coach Step system, then yes it is a pain to replace the motor trying to align all 6 upper and lower spacers. Which do you have? Kwikee or LCI(Lippert). Doug

Fleetwood Couple wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
SIMPLE test for power to Kwikee steps. Turn Chassis engine ON. Open and close the entry door. Watch the under step amber light. IF it goes on and OFF when opening and closing door the power to the step is correct. Then HIT the motor with a hammer(engine running) while opening and closing the door. IF the motor has a dead spot, it will eventually start to operate. If so, the motor is bad. Replace it. Doug

Thank you Sir,
This procedure worked on the third smack of the motor. Time to order a motor.

I just replaced the motor in mine a few months ago. Mine quit after just 5 years use (2012 model - see signature). Smacking it didn't help, but since it wouldn't move at all, I immediately suspected the motor, so I disconnected it and verified via a continuity test, that the motor had shorted out internally and was dead. Soo, just ordered a new motor and put it in.

Not a hard job, but definitely takes some patience, getting that motor positioned right, and getting all the bolts in place, with all the right spacers, etc. I'd plan on this taking you a good couple of hours, at least.

dougrainer wrote:
SIMPLE test for power to Kwikee steps. Turn Chassis engine ON. Open and close the entry door. Watch the under step amber light. IF it goes on and OFF when opening and closing door the power to the step is correct. Then HIT the motor with a hammer(engine running) while opening and closing the door. IF the motor has a dead spot, it will eventually start to operate. If so, the motor is bad. Replace it. Doug

Thank you Sir,
This procedure worked on the third smack of the motor. Time to order a motor.

Thanks for all the feedback. The storms have stopped so I can get out and troubleshoot it. Found the fuses and the Kwikee Owners Manual #888. Fuses and the override switch check good. Pulling the cotter pin is going to prove difficult and I have to move to another park tomorrow, so I might wait on that until I get there. I will post an update after I check the control unit and motor.

hermy wrote:
On my fleetwood the fuse for those steps is located in a box way back in the electrical compartment, left hand side. Where your shore power cord is. I know... makes no sense.

Thank you, yes I was able to locate both the motor fuse and the switch fuse. Both are good.

Use extra care working on the steps!
If they deploy while you are under them. They will crush you.
If they close with any body parts in the way. They will have no trouble removing said body parts.
Make sure all power is removed. Then it's a good idea to pull the bolt/pin between the motor and the steps. This will allow the steps to open. Then you can get to the control box and the ground points. On some units there is an inline fuse near the motor and control box. There is also a plug on the motor.

GOOD LUCK++++BE SAFE

SIMPLE test for power to Kwikee steps. Turn Chassis engine ON. Open and close the entry door. Watch the under step amber light. IF it goes on and OFF when opening and closing door the power to the step is correct. Then HIT the motor with a hammer(engine running) while opening and closing the door. IF the motor has a dead spot, it will eventually start to operate. If so, the motor is bad. Replace it. Doug

rdmike check his profile

Gjac wrote:
Start by posting what make and model steps you have.

X2

Not to be an obnoxious loudmouth but, did you buy your rig new and/or did it come with a manual for the steps?

If it is a Kwikee step, the manual has a logical and systematic trouble shooting guide. It also has wiring schematics, illustrations of the various parts of the system. And some logical safety steps to be followed.

Kwikee steps use a current sensing circuit in the controller, this circuit senses when the steps have reached the limit of their travel and shuts off the power to the motor and reverses the current flow. Often(most) times when this current flow is interrupted, there is pressure on the linkage and the clevis pin can be very difficult to remove. Also a common problem is the pin is installed backwards and in some configurations this makes it difficult to remove the cotter key.

If you have a set of Kwikee steps and no manual, you will find a link to Kwikee Manual #888 on Chris Bryant's web site.

As far as the other brands of steps, I have no knowledge of them and not ever had any others than Kwikee, no need to know about them.

Hint: There are three(3) fuses called for in a Kwikee Model 32 step system with dash and door switches, not one. Frequently there are only two and the door switch is not fused. It is easier to check the power in using the trouble shooting guide rather than looking for the fuses in the beginning.

If there is a blown fuse, I would suggest replacing the blown fuse using the appropriate size fuse with a blown fuse indicator light in the fuse.

While using a VOM or DVM is often very helpful, while laying on your back under your rig with a probe in each hand and trying to touch the proper contact inside a wiring plug that is hanging loose and looking at the meter face is really a pita. A good test lamp with an alligator clamp and screwdriver looking probe with a light is faster and easier. Your looking for what is usually full battery voltage and even then a good probe will indicate that by the light in the probe being dimmer. There are also test leads with a 6, 12 and 24 volt DC indicator in the handle although those are more difficult to find and more expensive than a good auto mechanic's test probe.

If the motor is bad there are seven hundred, eighty three posts on that subject. It is easier to start a new thread than wade through all those posts.

Just MNTBHO.

On my fleetwood the fuse for those steps is located in a box way back in the electrical compartment, left hand side. Where your shore power cord is. I know... makes no sense.