Suitable Class A (or C) for Pulling Car Trailer

If you are willing to go as far back as 1990, you might find a Bluebird for that price range (even if they are asking $30,000 they might come down to sell it).

Personally I would be looking for a Alpine DP. They came from the factory with a high HP engine and a 10,000 pound hitch. Another nice benefit of the one that Motorhome reviewed back in the 90's was the front mounted generator pulls out (electric slide) to reveal fuel fillers on both sides of the coach, but tucked under the locked slide. I thought what a great idea, you can pull up to the pump, and know exactly how far away the pump hose much reach to the filler tube. On my RV the filler is above the rear bumper, and I constantly would pull a couple feet to far, or not far enough to have the hose reach to the center of my RV.

I liked the layout as well. Alpine was made in Washington until about 10 years ago. I was sad to see them go.

You might also find a Country Coach in the price range that you are looking at. Beaver is another name of high end coaches that are no longer made, but came with very high HP engines - they where also made in Oregon.

Personally after using a 4 wheel down car for several years, then towing a Windstar van on a tow dolly, I was happy not to do the tow dolly anymore. I have a Ford Edge with all wheel drive. It was easy enough to move the tow dolly into camp, and then back the RV over the top of it (so nobody else could move it, and it was out of the way). But with a car trailer, you would have to unload the car, then park it, back the trailer into the double wide space (chances are they are not 65' long) and then unhitch, and then park RV beside it, and car in front of the trailer. You might get bad looks from the camp host for having 3 vehicles on the small parking area as well. Parking the trailer off site might be required at many parks. Then you will have to walk back to get the car after finding a RV parking spot.

Might be worth it or not?

I like and recommend 4 wheel down towing. .

Fred.

Just to get an idea of what prices are out there and floorplans, check out this PPL consignment place. You will see there's a 2001 37' Newmar Dutch Star for $20,000 and others below that. If you click on the diesel section you'll also see that diesels cost more.

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/classa/class-a-motorhomes.php

If you have a vehicle already that can be towed 4-down that would be your best bet. It's so much easier and convenient not to have to bother with a car dolly and where to store it on the campsite.

Good luck! There's one out there for you....

Should be able to find something in the $20K range from the early 90's. I'd look on e-bay just to get an idea of prices. The most popular engine/chassis from that era (IMO) was the Chevy 454 with the P30 chassis. P30 has independent front suspension with air bags. What ever Class'A' make sure there is not too much RV length behind the rear wheels!!! This causes rear to swing & sway wnen trucks pass or in the wind. Also can cause rear bearings to wear out early from being over loaded. Those 454's had 4 problems you'll experience. #1. Exhaust manifolds crack because head is bolted straight to the manifold with NO GASKET! Too much heat transfer too fast. Install aftermarket METAL gaskets or beat fix is headers. #2. Exhaust 'Baffle', at the TEE sticks closed. REMOVE IT! #3. Exhaust gas 'Reburn" air system causes EXTREMELY hot exhaust. Pinch off air tubes feeding each cylinder and remove belt driven air pump. #4. Starter motor absorbs heat from exhaust manifolds when engine is 1st shut off (gas station) & distorts Throwout gear housing. Can't restart till it cools down...45 minutes? Insolate motor. Electronic module inside distributor go bad from heat. A tach will indicate a beginning problem if it shows RPMs at idle starting to become irradic. Been there..done ALL this. lol

Great advice, thank you!

youth4him wrote:
Hey there!

We've been long-time campers, but have been in the travel trailer crowd with a 23' then 32' with living room slide.

We know that a MH is a good fit for us (2 of us, about to be empty nesters, want to pull a car trailer). We'd like to find a diesel pusher, but budget might not make that possible.

Most of the time, we'll be pulling a 4500' car trailer, but may end up at 5500' if we put a Jeep on it (or we could just go 4-down with it).

We are thinking a $20,000 or less budget, though, is that realistic at all? We've seen a lot of them on rvtrader, etc in that price range.

We don't mind the 1990's coaches, and then doing cosmetic upgrades, we just want to have a good solid base to work with that we can use and then slowly build out.

We're hoping to find a "forever" unit and build it out the way we want.

People are on both sides of the fence with gas units. For me, it's a little easier to work on since I build cars and race cars, diesel is a new animal for me.

The things that concern me with gassers:

1) Cockpit Noise
2) Power - especially this big mountain passes and towing
3) Towing capacity (related to 2.)

Everything else seems to be preferential.

We aren't opposed to a Class C either, if that sounds like a better option.

Thanks in advance!

many 90's gas coaches will have a Class II hitch capable of pulling 3500-lbs. a Class III hitch is nominally rated at 5000-lbs; a Class IV hitch at 10,000-lbs. It' unusual to find a Class IV hitch on a gas motorhome but since you're looking for a diesel you may have better luck.

regardless, be very careful when purchasing a MH. understand the weight of the MH as well as it's weight ratings.

- GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating): the maximum weight the chassis can support including itself.

- GCWR (gross combination weight rating): the maximum weight the vehicle can propel including itself.

- GAWR (gross axle weight rating): the maximum weight each axle can support. each axle will have a different GAWR. in a MH the sum of the GAWRs will usually, but not always, equal the GVWR.

- GVW (gross vehicle weight): the total weight of the MH as you have loaded it for travel. includes food, fuel, fresh water, clothing, supplies, people, pets and stuff.

- GAW (gross axle weight): the total weight of the above loaded MH on each axle. please note that the GAW on a particular axle should not exceed that axle's GAWR.

- Empty Weight: the weight of the MH with full fuel and LP tanks but which is otherwise empty of food, fresh water, clothing, supplies, people, pets and stuff.

- Payload: the difference between the GVWR and the Empty Weight and represents how much additional weight can be added.

in general, the maximum amount of weight you can safely tow (diesel or gas) will be the lesser of the following:

• the GCWR (gross combination weight rating) of the MH minus the actual weight of the MH as it is loaded for travel (includes fuel, fresh water, food, clothing, people, pets, supplies, etc.)

• the weight rating of your tow bar

• the weight rating of your hitch

this is why it's vital to know what your MH weighs...by axle...as it is loaded and configure for travel before choosing a toad.

load the MH as you would for a trip including fuel, water, food, clothing, pets, supplies and people. get individual axle weights and compare them to the GAWR for that axle. if either axle is overweight then either move weight to the other axle or eliminate the weight altogether. you need to check individual axle weights because it is possible to be under the GVWR of the MH even if one axle is overweight. I know 'cuz it happened to us.