cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Tight screws

donandmax
Explorer
Explorer
Who ever owned my rv before must have used epoxy or that red lock tite on the 4 screws that hold the a/c cover on because I used a big phillips head screw driver and cant budge them. I mean I have never in my life seen screws that were put on so tight. I'm not a weak guy but I swear I cant budge these things. I mean work up a sweat trying to turn these bas****s could they be rusted on there ? dont see any rust. and dont see anyplace to drip some rust dissolving solution or oil on them. Anybody got any ideas how I can get these devils loose ? I would like to install some quick start capasitors but cant even get the cover off to do so..
If it aint broke fix it till it is
31 REPLIES 31

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
They do rust. Do not be afraid to put some effort on them only 3 things can happen.

1: Strip out screw heads (and/or damage screwdriver)
2: they break
3: they come out

If 1: If the screwdriver sufferes. have it re-sharpened (yes, can be done)
1B: If screw head strips out.. Drill as suggested above and use Vice Grips
2: If it breaks you may be able to get to the top of screw with vice grips or drill it out and go to a slightly larger screw, stainless if possible
3: no problem.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Pirate1
Explorer
Explorer
I ended up having to buy the plenum pieces that held the screw sockets because most of mine were seized.

wildmanbaker
Explorer
Explorer
Matt has some very good advice. If you do ruin the tabs, you can make some new ones out of heaver material, and pop rivet them to the AC base, then drill new holes. You could even use light weight angle made of S.S., or aluminum. If the holes through the AC cover get damaged, you can use "Fender Washers" to cover the damaged area.

Good luck
Wildmanbaker

Matt_Colie
Explorer II
Explorer II
You can believe it or don't, I don't actually care. I did work on other people's expensive boats for years before the depression. I did this all the time with screws that were stuck in fiber glass. sometimes some yahoo had used "thread restorer" and other times is was epoxy - even JB-Weld. Heat will make it loose its grip and the screws same screws can be put back in the same holes when you are finished. It only takes about 300ยฐF to get them loose. This is why I specifically said to heat the fastener. I didn't think I would have to say heat only the fastener. That is why a torch won't do the job.

If by the same token, you drill the heads through (on something like a A/C cover) you will not have enough left to grab with vice grips once your pry the cover off. Then you will have unstable parts to try to drill out and you will have to think of some way to replace the threads you destroyed in the process.

Do as you please, as long as I'm not paying for the job, I don't care.

Matt
Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dogs (one dear dog is waiting for us at the bridge) going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.

Blaster_Man
Explorer
Explorer
Use vise grips on the heads. If the twist off, use an extractor to remove the shafts.
2014 American Eagle

rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Explorer III
Matt_Colie wrote:
I can't imagine why someone would use a thread locker on those fasteners, but I have run into stranger things. They also may have ripped the threads out and replaced them with an epoxy and no release coating. This will be a real PITA, but it will work if the screws were set in Lokite or other.... Get a tarp and a soldering gun or iron (a torch won't be confined enough). Heat the fastener as long as you dare and then try to loosen it. If that doesn't work, heat it longer than you think it can stand and try again. You need to trap because any breeze will take all the heat away.

The advantage of this method is that it is non-destructive.

Matt



It may be non destructive to the screws, which cost pennies, but it will probably damage the PLASTIC cover, that cost around $100.

BobandShaz
Explorer
Explorer
I would not use heat!!
Bob and Sharon

2006 Winnebago Sightseer 29R Ford F53. Roadmaster Eagle 8000. 2001 Ford F150 7700 4x4. Still shopping for toad brakes. FMCA F286179

Matt_Colie
Explorer II
Explorer II
I can't imagine why someone would use a thread locker on those fasteners, but I have run into stranger things. They also may have ripped the threads out and replaced them with an epoxy and no release coating. This will be a real PITA, but it will work if the screws were set in Lokite or other.... Get a tarp and a soldering gun or iron (a torch won't be confined enough). Heat the fastener as long as you dare and then try to loosen it. If that doesn't work, heat it longer than you think it can stand and try again. You need to trap because any breeze will take all the heat away.

The advantage of this method is that it is non-destructive.

Matt
Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dogs (one dear dog is waiting for us at the bridge) going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.

rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Explorer III
I would be a little careful with penetrating oil/heat as you may dissolve/soften the plastic used for the AC cover. The screws are a #2 Phillips size and the large screw driver that you are using just may not fit. Since they are going into sheet metal, that is not the strongest, an impact driver may do more damage than help.
I would make sure that you have a good quality #2 Phillips driver and apply a lot of pressure as you try to turn the screw counterclockwise to get it loose. Failing that, drilling off the head is all that is left. Once you have the old screws out and the holes cleaned out, replace them with some stainless steel sheet metal screws to minimize future problems.

stuplich
Explorer
Explorer
supercub wrote:
Are you getting a good bite with the phillips screw driver? If not, use a die grinder or even a hack saw to cut a slot across the head of the screw and use a big slot type screw driver. Use some kind of penetrating oil and let it soak for awhile Even though you don't think it will do any good. Then try taking it out......if it won't budge........try tightening it.....yes, I said try tightening it..sometime this will break it loose and then you can back it out.


supercub
Great suggestions!

BTW, the heat generated in the screw when you grind the slot may make the removal easier.

Mel
'96 Safari

JackMS
Explorer
Explorer
A ratchet with a screwdriver bit or some screwdrivers have a hex area just below the grip that you can put a wrench on. Either of these will increase your leverage.
2005 Holiday Rambler Neptune 34pdd, Cummins ISB 300, Allison 2500MH, Onan 8.0QD
Prior Toad-2001 Chevy 2500 CC 4WD
Toad-2012 Honda CRV, Blue Ox Aventa II

supercub
Explorer
Explorer
Are you getting a good bite with the phillips screw driver? If not, use a die grinder or even a hack saw to cut a slot across the head of the screw and use a big slot type screw driver. Use some kind of penetrating oil and let it soak for awhile Even though you don't think it will do any good. Then try taking it out......if it won't budge........try tightening it.....yes, I said try tightening it..sometime this will break it loose and then you can back it out.

popeyemth
Explorer
Explorer
I believe an impact tool will bend the sheet metal AC housing .
The screws only fasten into a turned up lip not anything substantial.
With a screw going in horizontally no way penetrating fluid can get to the AC sheet metal and any drips will damage a roof.
"wine is a constant proof that God loves us, and loves to see us happy" ben franklin

BobandShaz
Explorer
Explorer
gasguzler wrote:
Try an impact driver
and soak in penetrating fluid. You can get an impact driver at any auto parts store sears also. ๐Ÿ™‚
Bob and Sharon

2006 Winnebago Sightseer 29R Ford F53. Roadmaster Eagle 8000. 2001 Ford F150 7700 4x4. Still shopping for toad brakes. FMCA F286179