towing with Class A

mattdenryter wrote:
That is why I was asking, if I stay under the GCWR of the MH with the 5000lb boat would I be ok? The dry weight of the MH is 14120, the GCWR is 21000, so a difference of 6880, so minus 5000 for the boat leaves 1880 in cargo and gas in the MH. If I stayed at or under the 21000, would I be ok?

it's the wet weight you should be considering, that's assuning you want to tow the boat while using the RV for it's intended purpose.

the maximum amount of weight you can safely tow will be the lesser of the following:

- the GCWR minus the actual weight of the MH as it is loaded for travel (food, fuel, water, LP, clothing, supplies, pets, people and misc. stuff); OR

- the weight rating of the MH hitch (Class II 3500-lbs, Class III 5000-lbs, Class IV 10,000-lbs); OR

- the weight rating of your towbar

load up the MH as you would for travel and then get individual axle weights at a certified scale. compare those axle weights to the published gross axle weight rating (GAWR) for that motorhome. the actual axle weight must be less than/equal to the rating for that axle. add the two axle weights to arrive at the total rolling weight and then apply the three conditions above. assume nothing.

as others have pointed out simply changing the hitch is not enough. you need to speak with someone about that who has no financial interest in the answer one way or another. i'd start with the mfg of your MH and see what they have to say.

Listen to most of this and you will sell the boat. My sons boat weighs just a little more than that and has been towed all over the East, mountains and all with a F-150 and a 1994 Diesel Blazer in addition to my DP. So unless there is some serious deficiency in the back frame of your MH you will be fine as most of that weight is on the trailer wheels anyway. I doubt Joc Nicholson (trailer toad owner) would reccamend one for something that light.

Remember too, the drive train may not be sufficient to handle the extra weight. Many transmission problems can be attributed to overloaded towing. There's a reason the mfg put on a 3500# hitch.....good luck...Dennis

It's been posted on here before, but here it is again...work the numbers, the tow rating is the lower of:

1. GCWR minus tow vehicle's actual weight.

2. Hitch capacity.

3. Coach tow rating.

4. Chassis maker's tow rating.

Its a 1998 Georgie boy cruisemaster 3515.. P30 chassis and chevy 454 engine..

what year make and model MH?
What chassis?

some manufacturers (more often on C's than A's) used some pretty cheesy means to extend the frames to accomodate the house, and the beef behind the axle just isn't there, hence the low tow ratings.

You need to weight the MH. I'm betting you're way heavier than you think you are! Do not base anything on the Dry weight.

That is why I was asking, if I stay under the GCWR of the MH with the 5000lb boat would I be ok? The dry weight of the MH is 14120, the GCWR is 21000, so a difference of 6880, so minus 5000 for the boat leaves 1880 in cargo and gas in the MH. If I stayed at or under the 21000, would I be ok?

You need to consider the GCWR of the MH also. There's more than one reason they rated it at 3500#. Just changing the hitch out doesn't provide more TT capacity.

Yes the trailer has brakes on it..Does anyone have any experience using a trailertoad to help eliminate the tongue weight on the motorhome. If so just wondering what your thoughts are, as these are not cheap. they run about $3000. Wondering if it is worth the money.
Thanks