Trouble with Auxilary batteries

[3_in_the_RV]

Can anybody help me with this?
Problem: Auxilary batteries do not seem to be putting out energy despite the fact that they are fully charged. I am not able to start generator from auxiliary batteries. I am able to start it if I start the engine first and then start the generator so the generator is not the problem.

Steps taken:
• Auxiliary batteries disconnected and charged to full capacity with external battery charger. Charger shows they are fully charged
• Batteries put back in RV. No corrosion on posts and water levels are good.
• Control panel still shows batteries are dead.
• Batteries do not have enough power to turn over generator.
• Batteries are able to run lights in RV.
• Solenoid was replaced in 2014 ---could it be this again?
Thanks so much for any help or input.

[3_in_the_RV]

Bordercollie wrote:
Yes leave battery disconnect switch in connected position so converter/charger will keep the battery charged. In off position, converter charger is disconnected from house battery.

One time this past week I did got out to the RV, just stored in our driveway now and the "fan" on the converter seemed to be running non-stop. At that point I was plugged into shoreline and the disconnect switch was ON. Is this normal for it to be running all the time or did that indicate I problem I did not recognize?

[Bordercollie]

Yes leave battery disconnect switch in connected position so converter/charger will keep the battery charged. In off position, converter charger is disconnected from house battery.

[CA_Traveler]

"Fully charged" whatever that means doesn't mean the batteries are any good. They can be showing 12.7V and yet be toast.

Have the batteries load tested at a auto store for free. Load testing is by far the best way to determine their condition.

[3_in_the_RV]

Crazy Ray wrote:
Get voltmeter and check voltage. Google 12volt side of life, read and learn

This is great info on here. Thank you so much!

[3_in_the_RV]

cencerrita wrote:
You say you have power from batteries for lights but not enough power to turn the generator over. Just because the battery has a full charge does not mean it has the capacity with modern batteries. Get it checked with a load tester which any auto shop will do for free. This is a common problem with cars now and modern batteries. You drive home and battery is fine, stop the car and there is not enough "umph" to start again as battery has died.

Thanks. I will do that this weekend and report back.

[3_in_the_RV]

twogypsies wrote:
Do you have a battery disconnect switch on your RV?

Yes I do. I Understand that I am to leave that ON at all times and just turn off for long periods of storage. Is that correct? What about when I am hooked up to shoreline for a month at a time, should I leave it in the ON position? Thanks!

[TreeSeeker]

Articles about RV electrical systems:

BATTERIES--AND OTHER ELECTRIC STUFF

The 12v Side of Life

Intro to Dry Camping

Battery Education

[Dakzuki]

Sam Spade wrote:

cencerrita wrote:
Get it checked with a load tester which any auto shop will do for free.

This.
And you need a volt meter for yourself.
The fact that the panel shows the batteries dead either means that they ARE dead or there is a bad connection somewhere.
Someone else had a similar problem recently and it was a cracked main fuse for the batteries. Other things are possible too.

What Sam said. Get a multimeter. They are so stinking cheap these days you can have several. I have about four of them. One lives in the RV full time.

I have 3 of these: LINK

[Bordercollie]

If your house battery(s) is old and tired, a voltmeter or the meter on your battery charger may indicate a full charge. When you try to start the generator, the load of the generator's starter may be too much for your tired battery(s)and voltage drops way down. If you could leave the voltmeter connected to the battery, while attempting to start the generator, you could see the voltage drop drastically and rise back up when you stopped cranking the generator. New batteries with fresh plates inside have much more stamina than old ones with sulphated plates. Our two T-105 6 volt in series batteries lasted about 10 years then needed replacement. Your house battery should read around 13.6 volts when you are plugged into shore power and your converter/charger is charging properly. When your truck engine is running, you should read over 14 volts at your house battery. When engine is not running and you are not on shore power, you should read around 12.6 volts. If your battery reads around 12 volts it is nearly dead, can't start generator and interior lights will be somewhat dim. The LED battery charge indicators in the panel are not accurate, often show full charge when battery is worn out.

[Sam_Spade]

cencerrita wrote:
Get it checked with a load tester which any auto shop will do for free.

This.
And you need a volt meter for yourself.
The fact that the panel shows the batteries dead either means that they ARE dead or there is a bad connection somewhere.
Someone else had a similar problem recently and it was a cracked main fuse for the batteries. Other things are possible too.

[cencerrita]

You say you have power from batteries for lights but not enough power to turn the generator over. Just because the battery has a full charge does not mean it has the capacity with modern batteries. Get it checked with a load tester which any auto shop will do for free. This is a common problem with cars now and modern batteries. You drive home and battery is fine, stop the car and there is not enough "umph" to start again as battery has died.

[tenbear]

Do your lights dim when you try to start your generator? If so, the battery or the wiring has a problem. If the lights don't dim, the auxiliary batteries are not connected to the genny. I am assuming the auxiliary batteries are your coach batteries as opposed to the chassis battery.

[Crazy_Ray]

Get voltmeter and check voltage. Google 12volt side of life, read and learn

[twogypsies]

Do you have a battery disconnect switch on your RV?