I stopped by a large tire store this am because at an overnight stop I noticed my outside right rear tire was 6 lbs low on pressure. according to my "spit" test the valve core was leaking. I didn't have anything to tighten it. the repair man said that the entire stem had to be replacedand to do that he had to remove the tire. I reluctantly said ok if he was sure. he took off the lug nuts but the tire was stuck so he couldn't get it off. he proceeded to use a 10 lb sledge with a 4'handle and began to pound the tire itself as hard as he could. after 20 times the tire was still stuck. so I told him to quit and just tighten the valve core and air it up. I'm wondering how much damage to the tire and if this was an accepted procedure.has any one else had this happen? thanks. chuck

Next time just loosen the lug nuts a little and drive around the block.

50 years ago I worked 8n a tire store. Occasionally we used a full sized delete (12lb) and got one of our biggest guys to take full "baseball bat" swing at the tire. As long as you are hitting the tire and not the rim you are okay.

I carry a valve stem cap that has the little piece t tighten them. They cost $1.

Back in my truck shop days, our guys used a 4' pry bar to pop rusted on rims loose by prying between the duals after a liberal soaking with a rust buster like PB Blaster or Kroil.

I let mine get rusty a few years ago on my truck, two guys at the tire shop used sledge hammers to beat them off hitting the tire with full air pressure, it took a while. Pry bar worked some on the outside rims, they were stuck from the winter's road salt. I used oil out of my tool box to keep them from rusting up again, they didn't have anything to coat the axles. I rotated those tires early and painted everything that was bare metal.I touch up the wheel paint every time I have them off now. Haven't had that issue since I started painting them during the tire rotation and brake jobs. You should inspect and clean the brakes at least annually or have it done. A shop may be willing to use anti-seize or brake grease, or you could provide a tube and ask them to coat the axle hubs so the wheels won't stick as bad.

trying to get stuck tire off | Good Sam Community

ernie1
Explorer
Jul 21, 2021
JaxDad I totally agree with your statement. Whenever I have a drum, rotor or wheel that won't come loose I take my air chisel with a hammering head on it and hammer the area that the rotor, drum or wheel is in contact with the axle. Almost always after hammering different spots and seeing rust and dust flying off the surfaces the parts will separate.
JaxDad
Explorer III
Jul 20, 2021
ferndaleflyer wrote:
Something about the aluminum bonding to the bolts, lugs.

It’s not the bolts that’s the issue, it’s the face of the rotor or drum.

The problem is something called a ‘galvanic reaction’. When two dissimilar metals, the aluminum wheels and cast brake parts in this case, are held tightly together over time they chemically bond to each other.
cac43
Explorer
Jul 19, 2021
Re my original question about a stuck wheel. so many good suggestions. I bought a thing to tighten the valve core before our trip, but couldn't find it when I needed it. I really think the core just needed to be tightened, but decided the tech was a tire expert so went with what he said-
bad mistake. when we get home I'll take rv to someplace so they can do something to loosen
the wheels-i'll suggest some of the things said below. thanks so much. chuck
ron_dittmer
Explorer II
Jul 19, 2021
larry cad wrote:
There is a product called "Never Seez" that is a type of grease that you can paint onto wheel studs and you will never again have that problem. I use it all the time on wheels, and brake discs, and other stuff that gets exposed to water and might someday have to come off.

Doesn't solve your problem, but prevents it from happening again. Oh, and yes, use a sledge hammer.

I agree with everything you are saying.

You call it "Never Seez".
The industry calls it "Anti-Seize" sold under many different names and labels. Google the word anti-seize.
Remove the cap and there is an application brush attached to it like this.

I use anti-seize compound on contact areas for brake rotors, alloy wheels, wheel hubs, and lug stems.....any such things that get badly corroded, that you want to come apart easy later.
Stranger
Explorer
Jul 19, 2021
Cheaper than Amazon.
wopachop
Explorer
Jul 19, 2021
Is it holding air? Wonder how true the part was about needing to change the entire stem.

A new core or tightening the original might have been sufficient.
ferndaleflyer
Explorer III
Jul 19, 2021
Mike as I said above loosening the other lug bolts and driving did not help on the Mercedes. Something about the aluminum bonding to the bolts, lugs.
OkieGene
Explorer
Jul 19, 2021
^^^^ Thanks for this info.
Mike134
Explorer
Jul 19, 2021
bgum wrote:
Next time just loosen the lug nuts a little and drive around the block.

X2!! your method NEVER fails and nobody breaks a sweat.
ferndaleflyer
Explorer III
Jul 19, 2021
Wait till you get the 2 step lug bolts on a Mercedes froze. First the outside part shears off and then if you are lucky you can drill and easy out them. If that don't work it is cut the wheel enough to get a end cutting wheel in there and cut through the wheel to cut the lug off behind the wheel. After the wheel falls off you can turn whats left out with your fingers....the loosen the the other lug bolts didn't work after driving a mile or more.