Using over the winter - do I need to winterize

You have a third choice. Do a full winterizing job (I'm in the air-blow-out crowd if it can be done on your rig.) When you go on a winter trip, don't use the on-board water systems except for the toilet, for which you dump some pink stuff in along with your carried flush water.
Sort of like tent camping, but you have your warm rig and a toilet along.

The answer to your question is yes! That's just the way it is in Colorado. If its going to be just a week or so I will setup the coach furnace with supplemental electric heat and make do for a week or so. Otherwise I drain the tanks and will pump in the RV anti-freeze.

It takes less than 2 gallons of RV anti-freeze. Time is mostly in draining the tanks. My pump has a tap for pumping in the RV anti-freeze. Our rig has an instant demand water heater so no need to by pass or drain (we do not like the instant demand water hearter but that is another subject).

Good Luck.

Rick

Look at the top of the RV Forum page and click on RVing FAQ, and question 23a is about winterizing and there is a lot of good information there. If you follow the How To suggestions, you will be fine.

lfrese wrote:
Thanks RckyMtnVia! I wasnt paying attention to the forecast :( I will probably watch some youtube videos and figure out how to do it myself on Sunday.

Nobody mentioned using electrical tape on the pipes or the holding tank heaters. I guess those things arent too popular?

If you have a cold weather unit the water lines are already inside then using electrical tape is really not needed, in fact even for a unit that is not cold weather rated it takes a lot to freeze and cause any damage. I have mine in the cold (-10C) lots of time and all I do is to open the taps to release pressure and as long as it warms up the next day you will be fine. If you are unsure then turn the furnace on low and open the cupboards and run the hot water tank (if you keep water in it) before bed till it is hot.

Most, if not all, of the damage is caused by pipes that freeze hard then start to thaw but still have blockages of ice in the line then they refreeze again. When this happens the water that is refreezing is stuck and cannot expand down the pipe so it expands outwards thru the pipe causing it to burst. To have a hard freeze you need to have freezing temps for a couple of days and nights to get a hard freeze, one night will not do it unless we are talking -25C.

I was reading an article the other day about when to winterize and the writer put it perfectly "You need to winterize when daytime and evening temperatures stay below freezing" and I would add or when you do not have heat on during that time.

Yes air works, many people and places do use just air to blow out the lines of RV's and more for the winter. Just look at underground irrigation systems - blow out the water and you are done, no antifreeze in them. Problems will occur if you do not blow out all the water, then it settles and you can have freezing. I worked at a hotel that was only open in the summer, in the fall we would hook up the compressor and open all the taps for 20 or 30 minutes, flush the toilets till the flush box was as dry as you could get it and the water was out of the line, scoop out as much water as you could from the toilet bowl, add a cup of antifreeze to the flush box, toilet bowl and a half a cup to the sinks and shower drains and we were done. We would have a leak or two in the summer but most times it was from the person rushing or forgetting to open a tap.

Remember that draining water is harder in the winter when it is really cold and the water has started to freeze so if you are going to do that open your low point drains and pull the water heater plug on your way back home and let it drain out while the camper and tanks are still warm. Worst thing (not that I have done that)is to think you are going out and then it turns REALLY cold and you need to drain when the valves are frozen and the water is already slush.

Thanks RckyMtnVia! I wasnt paying attention to the forecast :( I will probably watch some youtube videos and figure out how to do it myself on Sunday.

Nobody mentioned using electrical tape on the pipes or the holding tank heaters. I guess those things arent too popular?

DrewE wrote:

DownTheAvenue wrote:

You can try blowing air through the system but that is not fool proof.

How exactly is using compressed air to winterize not foolproof, or at least any less foolproof than pumping antifreeze through the pipes? Air doesn't freeze and expand, any more than RV antifreeze freezes and expands. Any slight hint of moisture left in the low points in the plumbing has plenty of space to expand and doesn't burst the fittings. Both are perfectly sound approaches towards winterizing an RV, and there are many, many RVers who use each with success every year.

Seasonal homes and camps with plumbing systems are typically winterized by blowing the water out of the pipes with air (if they aren't designed and built in such a way that the system can be drained by gravity). Many of them have metal pipes that are far more likely to burst if water freezes in them than are the PEX pipes used in RVs.

the slight amount of moisture left in the plumbing could all collect in a low spot and cause a problem. so I will spend the $3.95 and do it right.
and all "cabins" etc. I have seen the last 50 years are all plumbed with a low point drain
bumpy

DownTheAvenue wrote:

You can try blowing air through the system but that is not fool proof.

How exactly is using compressed air to winterize not foolproof, or at least any less foolproof than pumping antifreeze through the pipes? Air doesn't freeze and expand, any more than RV antifreeze freezes and expands. Any slight hint of moisture left in the low points in the plumbing has plenty of space to expand and doesn't burst the fittings. Both are perfectly sound approaches towards winterizing an RV, and there are many, many RVers who use each with success every year.

Seasonal homes and camps with plumbing systems are typically winterized by blowing the water out of the pipes with air (if they aren't designed and built in such a way that the system can be drained by gravity). Many of them have metal pipes that are far more likely to burst if water freezes in them than are the PEX pipes used in RVs.

We use our DP in the Winter as well. Here in Michigan I thoroughly blow out all the water lines, open the low point drains, drain all the tanks including the WH (which is set to bypass), disconnect the ice maker and blow out, and add antifreeze only to sink/shower the traps and toilet. This is done after each trip.

Since the weather forecast for Denver is a low of 26 degrees on Monday and Tuesday night, and 27 on Wednesday, it would be a good idea to winterize your rv this weekend. I plan to do mine in the next day or two.

lfrese wrote:

Do I need to fully winterize and unwinterize the motorhome each time? Is there a way to avoid this? It seems like it would be an expensive thing to have to do and undo multiple times during the winter.

Not being a smart a$$, but you only have to winterize your RV anytime you don't want the water pipes to freeze and burst. You live where it gets very cold for days on end. Not winterizing will guarantee you a repair bill in the spring.

Between uses if, and that is a big if, the weather does not go below freezing then you are safe. Otherwise, you must winterize or keep the RV heated to prevent freezing.

The chemicals flush out well, and I know of no one having any ill effects from using a system that was winterized.

You can try blowing air through the system but that is not fool proof.