Anode questions.

[path1]

1. How tight do folks tighten your anode?

(I use Teflon tape on threads and screw it in till finger tight, then little tiny two finger tap on end of socket wrench).

2. When not in use I drain mine (cold weather) and screw in finger tight.

Good or Bad??? What do you think?

Or what do you differently?

[Dutch_12078]

sarojg wrote:
Thanks... guess I'll have to find out where it is. 🐵

With the outside panel open, the drain plug will be near the bottom towards the left side as you face the heater. As said, if it's a Suburban heater, the anode will be attached to the inside end of the drain plug. If the plug is nylon or CPVC it's an Atwood heater and does not use an anode. There should be a sticker on the heater with the make & model info. With that information, we can direct you to an owners/service manual for it.

[sarojg]

Thanks... guess I'll have to find out where it is. 🐵

[DrewE]

sarojg wrote:
What the heck is a sacrificial anode for in the water heater and where do I find maintenance info? I bought my RV used and it is missing a lot of material.

The sacrificial anode, if one is used, is a metal rod that gets screwed into the water heater to prevent galvanic action from eating away at and eventually perforating the heater tank. On RV water heaters, if there is one used it's generally also the drain plug. On residential water heaters it's generally a separate thing that gets screwed into the top of the heater, and often jointed so you don't need several feet of clearance above the heater to be able to remove or replace the rod.

Suburban RV water heaters have (or should have) the anode rod. Atwood RV water heaters use an aluminum tank and so don't need or have an anode, and their layout would make it very nearly impossible to get one in anyhow (the gas line runs in front of the drain plug). Maintenance consists of checking it from time to time and replacing it if the rod is considerably eaten away; how long that takes depends on the softness and other properties of the water, and can vary a good bit (months to years).

[sarojg]

What the heck is a sacrificial anode for in the water heater and where do I find maintenance info? I bought my RV used and it is missing a lot of material.

[memtb]

mobeewan wrote:

jerryjay11 wrote:

memtb wrote:
I also screw the rod back in partially. Never know what might enter. Once I found a dead snake in a residential house disconnected propane line.


A “Sewer” Snake? :h

Nope "DEAD" Snake.

It was in the 3/4" copper supply line that had been disconnected from the LP tank outside. Not sure what the little guy was trying to accomplish, but he was restricting the flow of gas.

Was it a "copperhead". 🙂

That’s good! :B

[mobeewan]

jerryjay11 wrote:

memtb wrote:
I also screw the rod back in partially. Never know what might enter. Once I found a dead snake in a residential house disconnected propane line.


A “Sewer” Snake? :h

Nope "DEAD" Snake.

It was in the 3/4" copper supply line that had been disconnected from the LP tank outside. Not sure what the little guy was trying to accomplish, but he was restricting the flow of gas.

Was it a "copperhead". 🙂

[myredracer]

Need to be careful when using PTFE tape. It's primary purpose is acting as a lubricant which can lead to over-tightening of joints. Old guy has it right, only tighten enough to prevent a leak. For joints 1/2" and larger, triple density (pink) PTFE tape is supposed to be used. Pipe dope is intended for permanent joints and tape for semi-permanent joints.

[Jim2007]

Hi.. I agree with old guy....... jim2007

[jerryjay11]

memtb wrote:
I also screw the rod back in partially. Never know what might enter. Once I found a dead snake in a residential house disconnected propane line.


A “Sewer” Snake? :h

Nope "DEAD" Snake.

It was in the 3/4" copper supply line that had been disconnected from the LP tank outside. Not sure what the little guy was trying to accomplish, but he was restricting the flow of gas.

[BB_TX]

x??

Tape and just snug tight. With Teflon tape and pipe threads, it doesn't need to be very tight to not leak.

And finger tight during the off season.

[memtb]

I also screw the rod back in partially. Never know what might enter. Once I found a dead snake in a residential house disconnected propane line.


A “Sewer” Snake? :h

[jerryjay11]

Been in the HVAC business since late 90's and have always used teflon tape or pipe dope to seal anode rods from leaking. A drip is a leak and will cause corrosion on the threads no matter how small. As for electrical continuity, even with teflon tape or pipe dope on the threads there is plenty continuity between the rod and tank. All the tape/dope does is fill the grooves between the sharp edges of the threads and those sharp edges will make contact. If you ever removed an anode rod and looked at the threads you would see that the sharp edges are exposed. Still not a believer? Then check the resistance with a multimeter.

As for tightening, I don't use a torque wrench. Instead I tighten with a socket to maybe 1/2 turn from bottoming out then check for leaks. If it is leaking I nudge it tighter until it stops. If it doesn't stop leaking I'll redo the process.

I also screw the rod back in partially. Never know what might enter. Once I found a dead snake in a residential house disconnected propane line.

[memtb]

DrewE wrote:

memtb wrote:
Tightening: We have two units with different tank construction. One has plastic threads where anode rod screws in....I use your described method. One the other, metal threads.....I get a bit more aggressive with the tightening.

If you have plastic threads, the connection is not for an anode rod. The anode needs to make electrical contact with the tank (through the threads) to be effective. On residential water heaters at least, often the water inlet and outlet connections are plastic to provide a thermal break and avoid hest loss via metal pipes (and maybe also to ensure the connections do not corrode together).

Good valid point... With almost thirty years of rv’ing, this was my first RV with plastic.. Had my “head up my behind “ and wasn’t thinking! :SThe Old habits are hard to break!

[sch911]

It's pipe thread, it needs dope or tape, and needs to be very snug. Or you'll have leaks, not now but down the road once it thermals cycles a few times.