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Firs time in the RV with hookups

jawsthemeswimmi
Explorer
Explorer
We're going out for the first time in our RV to a site that has full hook ups. I'm still trying to get how everything works so have a few questions.

1. City water connection - So I think I understand how using the water tank works. Fill the tank with water, turn the pump on, and the pressure from the pump sends the water to the various faucets. Does the city water connection completely bypass the tank/pump since there is already pressure coming from the connection? Is there something I need to change (like flip a switch, close a valve, etc) to make this happen? Does the city water connection on my trailer just feed directly into the water lines?

2. Sewer (Gray/Black) - Do I just connect this like normal and leave the black and gray valves open? Or do you leave the valves closed?

3. Power - Do people use surge protectors or something similar? How do I know what surge protector to get? I'm guessing they all protect against different levels of spikes.

Thanks in advance for all of your help.
28 REPLIES 28

DarthMuffin
Explorer
Explorer
Walaby wrote:
SpeakEasy wrote:
They'll also have the pressure regulators. These just screw onto the female end of the hose and onto the campground's water spigot. Just don't forget about it and leave it attached to the spigot when you move out.
-Speak

I actually connected my regulator to the city inlet connection (vice the campground spigot). That way I know I will never forget my regulator.

Mike


My regulator is after the disposable filter, before the hose. This makes it less likely to forget (you'll notice a bulky filter), reduces any possibility of pressure drop problems from the filter, and keeps sediment out of my regulator.

One tip, after connecting the hose to the spigot turn it on to flush it for a few seconds before connecting to the camper. It will get some of the "plastic hose" taste out and flush out any sediment in the faucet and any spiders or whatnot that could have crawled into your hose.

MarkTwain
Explorer
Explorer
SpeakEasy wrote:
You don't use the onboard water pump when you're hooked up to city water.

-Speak


If you need extra water pressure in the shower you can run both.

farmer_s_daught
Explorer
Explorer
I am fairly new to camping, too. Everyone has given great advice. I actually spray-painted my water pressure regulator bright orange so I wouldn't forget to disconnect it from the spigot at the campground. I was given a gift of RV 101 videos and the monthly online magazine by the dealership; I've watched HOURS of videos on how-to's on rv'ing. Very valuable. You can purchase it online and believe me, it's worth it. Videos on how to dump your tanks, hook-ups, backing up,--you name it. I'm a 63 yr old single female who bought my first trailer last year. I didn't know anything about them before I bought one. You'll definitely need a wd hitch. Good luck! Don't get any membership until you've camped a few times. It all depends upon how many of those places are near where you want to go. Some state campgrounds are really reasonable. I've found, though, that you have to go online and reserve your campsite almost a year in advance! Ask people you know who camp where they like to go. Go online and check out the state campgrounds in your area. In our state and the next one, many state campgrounds don't have full hookups; no sewer! So although they have good bathrooms and showers, your gray tank will fill up quickly if you don't use those amenities.(I'm spoiled; I want to use the bathroom & shower in my trlr--that's why I got one!).I made a visit the fall before and checked out resorts (you have to book those spots months in advance, too!). I found that the spaces are REALLY close together; on weekends you may be only 8-10 feet from your neighbor's rv. Not my idea of fun. Take lots of time looking at different makes of trlrs; I bought one last year and ended up trading up to a different one this year. I thought I wanted one floorplan, but after using it decided it didn't work for me. Also I like a shower with glass doors, not a tub w/shower curtain that sticks to me! I want someplace to sit besides at the banquette. If the weather isn't great, you get uncomfortable very quickly. The mattresses are cheap, too. I added a memory foam topper from Costco and sleep like a baby!

hawkeye-08
Explorer III
Explorer III
We have learned that many of the local state parks were built years ago when trailers did not have slides. We find that we cannot back in as far as we would like because the slide would hit the services (posts, etc). Our choice is to move over so we can back up more, but then we have to deal with stepping out of trailer onto lawn which gets watered during the night... all that to say, I ordered a sewer hose extension because our hose has been too short setting up the way we like.

Without the extension, we just waited until we were breaking camp and used the hookup as our personal dump station after putting the slide in and backing up 6'. No lines, no hurry.

packpe89
Explorer
Explorer
Exactly, Only use the pump, when pumping from the clean water tank.

bikendan
Explorer
Explorer
SpeakEasy wrote:
You don't use the onboard water pump when you're hooked up to city water.

-Speak


CORRECT!
Dan- Firefighter, Retired:C, Shawn- Musician/Entrepreneur:W, Zoe- Faithful Golden Retriever(RIP:(), 2014 Ford F150 3.5 EcoboostMax Tow pkg, 2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255 w/4pt Equalizer and 5 Mtn. bikes and 2 Road bikes

SpeakEasy
Explorer
Explorer
You don't use the onboard water pump when you're hooked up to city water.

-Speak
It's just Mrs. SpeakEasy and me now (empty-nesters). But we can choose from among 7 grandchildren to drag along with us!



2014 F-150 Super Crew Short Bed 3.5L Ecoboost
2014 Flagstaff Micro Lite 23LB

jawsthemeswimmi
Explorer
Explorer
SpeakEasy wrote:
jawsthemeswimming428 wrote:
allen8106 wrote:
DrewE wrote:
1. The city water connection attaches to the pressure side of the water system, like the output of the pump. Generally you just have to hook it up and you have water; no additional valves to open or close, no need to turn on the pump or fill the tank.


Not all rigs are created equal, on mine I have a manual valve within a few inches of my pump that I have to close when on city water.


How do I know if I have this?


There's no need to change any valves on your MicroLite 23LB. Just attach the city water to the spot labeled for it, and turn on the spigot. (Good advice about adding a pressure regulator in your hose hookup, however.)

Do you have one of those white hoses that are designed for potable water? If not, you can pick one up at WalMart or some such place. They'll also have the pressure regulators. These just screw onto the female end of the hose and onto the campground's water spigot. Just don't forget about it and leave it attached to the spigot when you move out.

Also - regarding the comments about an inline water filter - you already have that, installed by the factory. The disposable cartridge in it needs to be replaced annually, however.

-Speak


When I hook up to city water do I still need to use the water pump? Or does the connection provide enough pressure to move the water?

Walaby
Explorer II
Explorer II
Yes, I suppose it is true that pressure could get to the point where it makes my hose burst, but I haven't ran into that yet.

Regardless - you do need a pressure regulator, on that we all do agree.

Mike
Im Mike Willoughby, and I approve this message.
2017 Ram 3500 CTD (aka FRAM)
2019 GrandDesign Reflection 367BHS

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
Walaby wrote:
SpeakEasy wrote:
They'll also have the pressure regulators. These just screw onto the female end of the hose and onto the campground's water spigot. Just don't forget about it and leave it attached to the spigot when you move out.
-Speak

I actually connected my regulator to the city inlet connection (vice the campground spigot). That way I know I will never forget my regulator.

Mike


Except if the CG pressure gets too high it's possible to blow your hose. I've seen as high as 140 psi so far at a CG. High pressure hoses are available. We use a Valterra hose rated for 160 psi (our reg. is inside).

On the black tank, it helps to put in 3-5 gallons of water before you use the toilet to avoid a pyramid of p**p buildup that can block the inlet pipe.

Walaby
Explorer II
Explorer II
SpeakEasy wrote:
They'll also have the pressure regulators. These just screw onto the female end of the hose and onto the campground's water spigot. Just don't forget about it and leave it attached to the spigot when you move out.
-Speak

I actually connected my regulator to the city inlet connection (vice the campground spigot). That way I know I will never forget my regulator.

Mike
Im Mike Willoughby, and I approve this message.
2017 Ram 3500 CTD (aka FRAM)
2019 GrandDesign Reflection 367BHS

Allworth
Explorer II
Explorer II
I would emphasize that not all "surge Protectors" are the same.

Cheaper ones will protect (up to a certain point) against lightning induced spikes, but that is about all.

On my 50 Amp trailer with two AC units I run a Progressive Industries EMS (Electrical Management System). Expensive; but not so much compared to the cost of a new AC unit or a replacement microwave, television, etc.

The P.I. EMS protects against:

High Voltage
Low Voltage
High Frequency
Low Frequency
Open Ground
Mis-wired pedestal
Lightning

Add to that a lifetime warranty (with excellent customer service) on a made-in-America unit, and it is well worth the price.

(The best price I found was on Amazon; shipped directly from P.I.)
Formerly posting as "littleblackdog"
Martha, Allen, & Blackjack
2006 Chevy 3500 D/A LB SRW, RVND 7710
Previously: 2008 Titanium 30E35SA. Currently no trailer due to age & mobility problems. Very sad!
"Real Jeeps have round headlights"

nma33
Explorer
Explorer
Do you have a black water flush on your trailer, If so then this changes how to dump the tank, I have always had Black water flushes, right before I start to dump the BW tank, I hook up the BW flush and start the water, then open the tank, once the waste water is a slow flow I close the tank and let is fill 2/3 with water, then I open the valve again, I do this again if the water coming out seems to still have stuff in it. Once that stuff is cleared out, I close the tank, add a couple gallons of water into the Black tank, add my chems, and I am ready to go.

SpeakEasy
Explorer
Explorer
jawsthemeswimming428 wrote:
allen8106 wrote:
DrewE wrote:
1. The city water connection attaches to the pressure side of the water system, like the output of the pump. Generally you just have to hook it up and you have water; no additional valves to open or close, no need to turn on the pump or fill the tank.


Not all rigs are created equal, on mine I have a manual valve within a few inches of my pump that I have to close when on city water.


How do I know if I have this?


There's no need to change any valves on your MicroLite 23LB. Just attach the city water to the spot labeled for it, and turn on the spigot. (Good advice about adding a pressure regulator in your hose hookup, however.)

Do you have one of those white hoses that are designed for potable water? If not, you can pick one up at WalMart or some such place. They'll also have the pressure regulators. These just screw onto the female end of the hose and onto the campground's water spigot. Just don't forget about it and leave it attached to the spigot when you move out.

Also - regarding the comments about an inline water filter - you already have that, installed by the factory. The disposable cartridge in it needs to be replaced annually, however.

-Speak
It's just Mrs. SpeakEasy and me now (empty-nesters). But we can choose from among 7 grandchildren to drag along with us!



2014 F-150 Super Crew Short Bed 3.5L Ecoboost
2014 Flagstaff Micro Lite 23LB