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Newbie with plugging into house question

justinae
Explorer
Explorer
Hi. First post here. I am getting acquainted with my grandfather's RV. It's a 2009 Sprinter Roadtrek. Not sure of all the specs to say but it has two deep cycle coach batteries and is based on 30 amp plugin.

I am trying to plug into my house circuit and can't seem to run anything. I initially plugged into a GFCI circuit and then read that that doesn't work so I've plugged into a 20 amp circuit that is not GFI protected and has absolutely no other draw on it. The batteries in the RV are low on their charge and perhaps that is the issue?

Anyway, it's no longer tripping the breaker, but I can't seem to run anything besides a fan and some lights, which I assume are just running off battery power. The fridge won't let me switch it to AC.

Is there a way to run off the 20 amp house circuit if I just limit the use to small draws, like TV /DVD and a light? Will the 20 amp eventually charge the battery? I wonder what the cost of doing that from the house is.

Looking forward to learning from all you seasoned RVers.

Thanks!
Justin
37 REPLIES 37

MotorPro
Explorer
Explorer
Hard to tell without being there but it sounds like your batteries are dead. Pull them out,bring them to auto parts store and have them tested.

justinae
Explorer
Explorer
I reset the breakers in the RV. Nothing changed. The microwave doesn't turn on when plugged in but I would think that 20 amps is enough to run the microwave. It does turn on when I fire up the generator.

Here are a couple pics.



justinae
Explorer
Explorer
Not using an extension cord. I'm using the cord that came with the RV and a 15/20amp adapter. I have a no contact volt tester that just tells me if it's hot or not and it does read that it's hot.

tenbear
Explorer
Explorer
You did check to see if your extension cord is good? Plug a lamp into it.
Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory

justinae
Explorer
Explorer
It does have a propane generator. I'll reset the breakers in the RV later today and report back.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
You would only have a transfer switch if you have a built in generator.

120v system in an RV is much the same as at home. It is just a subpanel. Check voltage between the main 30a breaker(Black hot wire) and the neutral bus(common bar connecting White wires). You may need to remove the cover to expose the wires.

tenbear
Explorer
Explorer
Oh, transfer switch. You may or may not have a transfer switch. My RV does not. When not plugged into a power source my power cord is plugged into a 30A socket in the power cord compartment in the RV. That socket is connected to the generator. The function of the transfer switch is accomplished by plugging the power cord into the generator power or the household power.
Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
Let me list what I do here and maybe it will trigger what you may be doing wrong on your end connecting up to the house/garage.

I run two 120VAC drop cords from my garage to power up my 30Amp fifth wheel and 30Amp OFF-ROAD POPUP trailer when parked here at the house.

I have 20AMP breakers in my house power panel connected to 15AMP Wall Receptacles. One receptacle in the garage is a stand alone receptacle that was installed to run an air compressor at one time and this is the only thing on its circuit. I use this to feed my fifth wheel. My OFF-ROAD POPUP uses a 120VAC receptacle that located near the garage door and is on a different 20AMP circuit breaker then the one I am using for the fifth wheel trailer.

Before hooking up to the Garage 120VAC receptacle i would use a circuit tester from LOWES -WALMART that looks like this

Do not use the garage 120VAC receptacle if it does not check out "CORRECT" by the correct position of the tester lights...

What I do is use two 10-GAUGE (10-3) HD Contractor type 50-foot that run out towards both trailers. I have used a 12-gauge (12-3) long extension cord with out any issues but would never use the 14-16 gauge "RED ORANGE" smaller size extension cords you find at LOWES-WALMART. They are just too small to handle the trailers.


Out in the middle of the yard I use a RV30A-15A DOGBONE STYLE long adapter plugged into the 50-foot extension cords. These come from WALMART and look similar to this...


I could never use the small round black type RV30A-15A adapters as they always tend to get hot me when used just a short time...


What you don't want to happen is for the adapters to heat up your shore power cable which might end up looking like this and will need to be replaced.


Now all I do is plug the 30AMP trailer SHORE POWER CABLE into this RV30A-15A long adapter laying in the middle of the yard.

To insure the 120VAC power source is safe to use I will use one of these RV PLUG IN 120VAC AC voltmeters (AMAZON) plugged into a receptacle inside the trailer that is in a good view spot so you can glance at it when you need to. This will check the 120VAC level coming from the house. The part I like about this meter is it has a safe zone "GREEN" printed on the face and if the AC voltage is within this safe limit then is ok to use the power - even for one roof mounted air conditioner unit.


I will turn a few thing on inside the trailer for 10-minutes or so and then back outside and check all of the connection points to see they are not getting warm to touch. This includes the garage 120VAC receptacle.

This is pretty much what we do here for our two trailer that is hooked up to the 15AMP service from the garage.

We can run just about everything inside the trailer we want to run but have to watch sometimes what is on at the same time. i.e. we can never run the air conditioner and the high wattage microwave at the same time otherwise it will trip the breaker in the garage.

We sleep in both the trailers all the time when sitting in camp back yard and of course this is where I get to do all my mods and fix up things for the every changing OFF-ROAD POPUP configurations for my emergency radio operations I am connected with. Its a great get away just sleeping over in the back yard sometimes. Wifes gets to use the fridge to supplement her kitchen fridge. Good spot for my beers too...

ALot of folks will warn you about about all kinds things that might happen when only connected to a 15/20AMP service but if you follow some good guidelines like I have listed here you should be ok. Has worked good for me over the past few years.

We use the extension cord and RV30A-15A long adapter when on the road alot. You never know when we may need some power sometimes. Works great when visiting family - I just hookup outside their house and we sleep in the trailer.

Hope this helps

just my thoughts
Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

tenbear
Explorer
Explorer
justinae wrote:
Do you mean reset the house breakers or in the RV? I don't know how to check voltage at the 30a main ( I know I know). House wiring I understand, RV wiring, different story. What/where is the transfer switch? I don't think there is a surge supressor.


Reset the RV breakers.

About RV wiring...
The RV has 2 electrical systems, 12 volt DC and 120 volt AC. Most of the RV is powered by the 12vdc system. The converter converts the 120vac power to 12vdc, actually somewhere between 13.2 and 14.4vdc, that keeps the battery charged. The only thing powered by the 120vac in most 30A systems is the microwave, TV, AC and the outlets. The refrigerator and possibly the water heater work off propane or 120vac and both need 12vdc for their control circuits.

A good intro to the 12v system is The 12 volt side of life.

Hope you enjoy your new to you RV.
Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
The Rules accordign to Reddy Kilowatt

20 amp you should be able to run the Fridge, and one of the following
Air conditioner, Water heater, Microwave. Space heater, but only one.

You may also be able to power a radio or television But that's pushing it

30 amp, 2 of the listed items, and the TV is no longer pushing it.

50 amps, you don't have so we won't bother save to say "All you can eat".

Now, your extension cord... Most extension cords are TOO SMALL. if you have to use an extension cord at the very least get a 12ga cord (Sears or K-mart with the push button on the outlet end recommended).

If you decide to have a 30 amp outlet put in, I recommend you have a 50 put in and use an adapter, 2 reasons.. ONE: Electricians sometimes screw up 30 amp, but hardly ever mess up a 50. 2nd when (not if) you upgrade,,, no cost to switch the outlet to 50 amp.

YOu can safely feed a 50 amp outlet with 30 amp breakers if you wish


IF you have a 30 amp installed, and the electrician installs 2 ganged breakers, it is NOT CORRECT AND WILL DAMAGE YOUR RV. Measure the voltage across the flat pins (or have him do it before he leaves) should be around 120 volts, if it's over 140 (IE 240 volts) He did it wrong.


Now... You say this is your grandfather's RV, I'm assuming it is an older model.. Find the fuse/breaker box.. IS this a Magnatek 6300? This thing takes forever (or so it seems) to charge batteries up and .... then it does not stop. (So it overcharges and damages) Replacement (Upgrade) is a good idea.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

westend
Explorer
Explorer
The refrigerator, water heater, and AC have circuit boards that need adequate 12v power to function. I would suggest as a first step, to pull the batteries and have them tested and recharged so you are not chasing your tail with failed batteries.

Your converter may power the lights and 12v devices without a battery in the rig. 15 amps should be adequate to run the converter to charge batteries. If the batteries have been left in a discharged state for any length of time, they have probably failed.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

justinae
Explorer
Explorer
Do you mean reset the house breakers or in the RV? I don't know how to check voltage at the 30a main ( I know I know). House wiring I understand, RV wiring, different story. What/where is the transfer switch? I don't think there is a surge supressor.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Have you reset all the 120v breakers? Firmly switch them all off, then firmly back on.

Still no power? Check voltage at the 30a main. Then same at transfer switch (if applicable) and at the cord entry J-box.

If he has a surge protector there could be a delay to get power (3 minutes?)

Keep posting the test point results and we will get your power on.

justinae
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the info and condolenses. Yeah it seems strange that I can't run anything more than lights. Here's an interesting question. I know I need to have the battery turned on for anything to work (I'm assuming this to be the case) because even if I'm plugged in to shore power, it still goes through the battery, right? How do I know that the coach lights are actually being powered by the plug and not just draining the battery?

Also, I'm supposed to have the Inverter turned ON while plugged in so the batteries charge right? I hope that's not a dumb question, probably is. 🙂

Wishbone51
Explorer
Explorer
I can run the AC and fridge at the same time with no issues when plugged into my house. I haven't tried the water heater, but I rarely have use for that at home.
2017 Jayco Jay Feather 25BH
2004 Nissan Titan