RVcircus wrote:
what if you make a shim using the inside of the window trim and or the window opening as a template? I'm thinking butyl tape will be a better deal long term than just ProFlex assuming you can compress it.
I ran a strip of blue tape across the top seam, but still had a leak last fall. So I taped the window up tight with plastic for the winter and it was dry. The forecast looks dry so I removed it.
It took 15 minutes of prying because the butyl was still nice and soft. No signs of water streaking or leaking by except on the sill and interior paneling damage. The window weep holes were clean.
I hope the window itself is not leaking, but the more I look and think about it I fear it is. Is there a window seal rejuvenating liquid? lol
The only thing I can come up with is to reinstall the window and then if there's still a leak, I know it's the window seals? Or did I prove its the window itself, when it continued to leak with tape across the top?
Second, the trim ring having that Z shape isn't helping. You can see the gasket I used to shim it and it seemed to work well. But you can also see I would be better of with a flat trim ring with how far the window comes into the frame with no butyl.
Anyway, I think I will remove the gasket spacer and flip the trim ring with the outside facing in. It will be ugly, but so am I.
And I think I will use only one layer of butyl and trim it back enough space for a tiny bead of proflex.. Sound like a plan?
Or do I need new window seals or a new window? Im tired of this.. How long do window seals typically last?
Thanks everyone!
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