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Ford CMax Inspection

EB_Expedition
Explorer
Explorer
I have updated this post for better clarification.

I had a 2013 Ford CMax using the Blue Ox Baseplate BX2639 and have experienced loosening of the attachment bolts which have been retorqued twice. Recently my Ford dealer noticed frame damage (not caused by loose attachment bolts). Specifically, the attachment flange of the upper support frame to the uni-body of the vehicle (toward rear of car next to baseplate mounting bolts) failed. This is an vehicle frame failure, not a baseplate failure. It appears due to metal fatigue as a result of forces applied to the support frame through the baseplate while towing. I DO NOT KNOW if this issue is a isolated occurrence on my car or not. The baseplate attaches to the vehicle with six bolts (three on each side at the top of the baseplate). The baseplate has approximately 6-8 inch drop to the baseplate cross bar (attachment point for RV tow bar). There are no attachment points at the bottom of the baseplate, or its crossbar, to the vehicle.

If you own a Ford CMax using this baseplate, you may want to inspect your baseplate for loosening and the upper support frame (attachment point for the baseplate) for possible vehicle metal fatigue or damage. Also inspect the lower frame support (which is factory welded to the upper support frame) for metal fatigue or damage. This inspection requires removing the front bumper assembly of the vehicle.
6 REPLIES 6

rocmoc
Explorer
Explorer
No problem with our setup on our 2013 Cmax. Over 20,000 miles towed but our setup is level between all points of connection. Has been a while but I believe the install instructions called for Loctite on connecting bolts & nuts.

rocmoc n AZ
rocmoc n Great SouthWest USA

Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Explorer II
FWIW, here are the instructions, which on page 2 say:
blue ox wrote:
Be sure to use a sufficient amount of Loctiteยฎ Red on all bolt threads before tightening. Tighten all bolts according to the torque chart provided.
-- Chris Bryant

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
Without seeing the car and the damage, I'd offer that:

1. Finding it before catastrophic failure is very very fortunate

2. The damage can probably be repaired at this point

3. Having it actually separate would likely be beyond practical and economic repair

4. ALL OF US NEED TO INSPECT AND CHECK TIGHTNESS ON ALL THAT HARDWARE! I'm not the best at remembering stuff like that but recent developments (on the order of this one!) prompted me to do so and fortunately Base Plates on two toads, Hitch on RV, and other misc parts were all OK.

5. Advantage of a DIY installation. If Instructions say RED LocTite, I'll go get some. Some shop may just say "OK it's tight enough."
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
Sorry, partial duplicate post.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Explorer II
I agree about the Loctite- it is required. You need to be in touch with Automatic Equipment ( makers of Blue Ox).
-- Chris Bryant

lryrob9301
Explorer
Explorer
If your baseplate was properly installed using RED Loctite and torqued to the proper settings, you would not be having this problem. I've seen a half dozen or so loose baseplates that were "Professionally Installed" but did not have one drop of Loctite on any of the bolts. The biggest offender Camping World.