Hitch Setup Question

Using the spring bars, try to get the trucks front axle to where the manual says it should be. I always try to get mine back to the unloaded weight so my headlights aim correctly. Many vehicle manufacturers only want the front axle to be only half of the unloaded weight though.

Once you get the front right, don't worry about the rear axle. As long as you are not overweight on it you are ok. The rear axle will take care of itself if the front is correct.

Take a long look at this thread for some help. :)
Barney

MVH1 wrote:

eHoefler wrote:
The hitch needs to have the head adjusted for the new truck, sounds like it sits higher than your old one.

I did adjust it. When I hook it up both the trailer and truck sag. The truck is about 3 inches in the rear. When I hook the WD bars up the trailer levels out and the truck comes up about one inch. I’m afraid if I move the head up another notch, the trailer front end will be too high and the truck will have the same sag. Thanks

I would try it and see what happens. I had a F250 that did the same thing. Adjusted one set of holes and problem solved. But at the end of the day 2" sag should not be an issue either.

eHoefler wrote:
The hitch needs to have the head adjusted for the new truck, sounds like it sits higher than your old one.

I did adjust it. When I hook it up both the trailer and truck sag. The truck is about 3 inches in the rear. When I hook the WD bars up the trailer levels out and the truck comes up about one inch. I’m afraid if I move the head up another notch, the trailer front end will be too high and the truck will have the same sag. Thanks

eHoefler wrote:
The hitch needs to have the head adjusted for the new truck, sounds like it sits higher than your old one.

That is what I am thinking. If your ball mount is too high it will naturally want to make it squat more. Lower it one set of holes if it is adjustable.

I understand 2 inches isn’t much and the 50%. I’m just confused, because on my other trucks that pulled the same camper, I was able to get both truck and trailer level. My trailer is around 7,000 lbs loaded. ??

The hitch needs to have the head adjusted for the new truck, sounds like it sits higher than your old one.

drsteve wrote:
It's normal for a truck to sag a bit in the rear when loaded. The purpose of WD is to return weight to the front. A couple inches of sag is not even close to excessive.

That is correct, your owners manual says to bring the front back by half of what it changed by using the weight distribution. If the rear is then excessively low, consider adding air bags to restore ride height.

It's normal for a truck to sag a bit in the rear when loaded. The purpose of WD is to return weight to the front. A couple inches of sag is not even close to excessive. If the TT is level and the front is returned close to it's unloaded height, I wouldn't worry about it.

My 2010 F250 sits about 2" lower than unloaded in the rear with our 900~lb tongue weight. About 3" lower without the WD bars attached. Perfect in my humble opinion. If you need something to bother you, think about the stress the WD bars put on the trailer's A frame. It's already carrying the load of the tongue weight. Then we pull down on the A frame with tremendous force with the bars adding greatly to the stress on the A frame to chassis point. Maybe more than doubling the load. I don't know the calculation or how to measure it. I prefer to use as little WD as is necessary to bring the front of the TV about halfway down to it's unloaded height.

Add stableloads and if needed timbrens.