Lighting the oven

2oldman wrote:

Allworth wrote:
A couple of years ago my wife decided that the oven is not worth lighting.

Patient: "Doc, it hurts when I do that". Doctor: "Well then don't DO that!"

LOL... I was in a car accident several months ago and had a pain on the top of my hand. Went to the doctor to have them look at it. I told him it hurt when I touched it in a certain place and his response was well don't do that...lol

Great !!

wnjj wrote:

LOFAT36 wrote:
Lighting the oven in our 5er is a PITA. Why don't they have an igniter for this like the 3 burners ? We don't use the oven much when we are south for about 5 months but getting down on my knee's (worse getting back up) is getting old real fast. And I'd rather not leave the pilot light on.

My guess is because it's in an enclosed area. There's a chance to build up propane in there (like from a leak) and a "remote" igniter would be deadly. When you open the door to light it you'd know if there's a propane issue. The cooktop burners will vent themselves.

atwood and suburban both make ovens with ignitors. just don't find them as std. equipment on most trailers.

I installed a ignitor on mine using a kit for BBQ's that had 4 ignitor outputs and is battery powered. One of the ignitors in the kit has a heat shielded wire for running into the oven.

Allworth wrote:
A couple of years ago my wife decided that the oven is not worth lighting.

Patient: "Doc, it hurts when I do that". Doctor: "Well then don't DO that!"

A couple of years ago my wife decided that the oven is not worth lighting. Nothing cooks properly in it anyway (even with a tile in the bottom to spread the heat).

Without the microwave we would starve, but the oven is a storage cabinet for pots and pans.

Here's another vote for the adding the battery sparker mod, I did the burners first, and after a few months, did the oven, works great and wasn't that hard to do.

2oldman wrote:

wa8yxm wrote:
You Must turn to PILOT and PUSH to light, then after holding it for one mintue (LIT) you can turn it up.. That's if it is working properly,, Time may vary.

Not my oven. No pushing required. Circa 2002 Atwood.

Yes, I guess pushing would be a problem. Then I'd just leave the darn thing on, which I do anyway.

Likewise not on my oven. The thermocouple for the pilot, which requires holding the knob in and shuts off the pilot gas completely should the pilot go out, is a comparatively recent innovation (within the past ten years, more or less, I think).

wa8yxm wrote:
You Must turn to PILOT and PUSH to light, then after holding it for one mintue (LIT) you can turn it up.. That's if it is working properly,, Time may vary.

Not my oven. No pushing required. Circa 2002 Atwood.

Yes, I guess pushing would be a problem. Then I'd just leave the darn thing on, which I do anyway.

2oldman wrote:
I leave the pilot on. It's also easier to ignite if you turn up the temp to 200 or so, getting the gas to flowing.

You really have to get on your knees?

If the valve is working properly you will have NO GAS FLOWING with the pilot not lit and the dial set to "200 or so".. You Must turn to PILOT and PUSH to light, then after holding it for one mintue (LIT) you can turn it up.. That's if it is working properly,, Time may vary.

Reader1 wrote:
He says it is easier if he lights the burners first, turns them off and then lights the oven. I don't know if there is any reason for this... .

It gets the propane "closer" to the range and the oven by bleeding out any air. I do this when trying to start my refer after a period of time sitting.

And the oven is a whole lot easier to light if you (as I mentioned earlier) turn the thermostat onto 200 degrees or something like that to really get some gas there. And no, you won't blow yourself up if you open the oven door and only do that for a few seconds.