We are getting ready to go pick up our new GD Imagine TT next week.Our current and previous TT's had / have exposed valves where you just pull a handle, pretty simple.This new TT has the valves in the belly, supposed to keep them from freezing I was told.I have never used a cable pull. I can see they would open when you pull the cable, but how do they close? I'm sure the person doing the walkthru will explain but thought more info is better. Is there a way to test during the walk thru?Yes, we plan on a detailed walk through.By the way if you know of a good walk through checklist and could direct me to it that would be appreciated.Thanks

riven1950 wrote:I have never used a cable pull. I can see they would open when you pull the cable, but how do they close? I'm sure the person doing the walkthru will explain but thought more info is better.Just push it back in. ;) The problem is later on when those cables begin to stick and you find it impossible to fully close the drain valves. Happened to me on my Spree, cut 'em off and replaced them with direct pull Valterra drain valve assemblies - problem solved. :B

They are a push pull valve. Pull the handle to open, push the handle to close. Yes, they can be a pain in the *** to work if they get clogged or you do not lube the cable regularly. In 11 years I had an occasion to replace one out of three. Mainly due to the cable breaking at the handle.

Good advice above already.......and, having the valves covered by the under-belly may or may not keep them from freezing..Be careful what the salesman tells you..

riven1950 wrote:WI have never used a cable pull. I can see they would open when you pull the cable, but how do they close? I'm sure the person doing the walkthru will explain but thought more info is better.ThanksYou're probably picturing a completely straight cable pulling the valve open, but that is not the case. It's not the cable alone that pushes the valve shut. It's a combination of the cable and the flexible sheath. The sheath is stiff enough that when you push on the cable it slides inside the sheath rather than just flexing to the side. Look at a 10 speed bike, there are loops in the shift cable yet it is able to push and pull the cable to change gears. Come to think of it, most front wheel drive cars use a cable on the automatic transmission gear selector too. But if you pulled the outer sheath off then the cable would just flop around and nothing would happen.

I have replaced mine with manual valves under the RV. Cable pulls WILL fail to perform.

question on cable pull tank valve drains | Good Sam Community

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Nov 10, 2018
If they were straight I am sure they would work well for a long time but they are most always put in a big circle.

I finally had enough and placed my valves under the RV in an easy place to reach.
wilber1
Explorer
Nov 10, 2018
I find cable pulls will often close better if you keep pushing on the handle for five or ten seconds after it is all the way in.
bfast54
Explorer
Nov 09, 2018
I used "bicycle" cable lube, it creeps into the cable..Keeps it loose.;)
Papa_Steve
Explorer
Nov 09, 2018
Since I needed a new 'Y' connector on my (after my electric valve replacement), I bought the Valterra Y with manual valves already bolted together as 1 piece.
Best of both worlds... electric valves way up underneath, and manual valves right at the hose connector.
fj12ryder
Explorer III
Nov 09, 2018
Thanks for that.
shum02
Explorer
Nov 09, 2018
fj12ryder wrote:
shum02 wrote:
I solved my remote cable pull problem by putting a manual straight pull at the last part of the dump tube. If a valve fails to close properly or leak this valve will hold back the contents till I dump. Been working great, super easy and inexpensive to install on the 3" tube.

The remote valves are up under the enclosed belly and a pain to get at to change over to manual.
I have the same issue, but mine don't leak yet. Do you have a pics of your installation? TIA.

Sorry don't have any except maybe the final product.

Probably one of the easiest mods to do. Simply cut off the section of pipe that contains the pipe cap and collar with a hack saw and then prepare the 3" pipe to receive the new dump valve. You have to have at least around 3" of pipe to mount the new valve on. Prepare the area by cleaning it with in my case a couple quick shots of brake cleaner then a wipe off with a wet cloth. Use the appropriate ABS solvent/glue for black pipe, coat both pieces according to the instruction, mate the two pieces making sure you have it orientated the way you want and then let cure. Done.

Valtera also makes one that just mounts up to the cap collar if you do not want something permanent but I think permanent is the WAY to go.
fj12ryder
Explorer III
Nov 08, 2018
shum02 wrote:
I solved my remote cable pull problem by putting a manual straight pull at the last part of the dump tube. If a valve fails to close properly or leak this valve will hold back the contents till I dump. Been working great, super easy and inexpensive to install on the 3" tube.

The remote valves are up under the enclosed belly and a pain to get at to change over to manual.
I have the same issue, but mine don't leak yet. Do you have a pics of your installation? TIA.
shum02
Explorer
Nov 08, 2018
I solved my remote cable pull problem by putting a manual straight pull at the last part of the dump tube. If a valve fails to close properly or leak this valve will hold back the contents till I dump. Been working great, super easy and inexpensive to install on the 3" tube.

The remote valves are up under the enclosed belly and a pain to get at to change over to manual.
fj12ryder
Explorer III
Nov 08, 2018
Just curious, are there any advantages to the electric valves? Other than pushing a button rather than pulling/pushing a lever? Different type of sealing surface? Or something other than a blade-type valve?
Papa_Steve
Explorer
Nov 08, 2018
My new trailer had cable pulls, which I did not like due to not quite closing all the way, so....
I just got done replacing them all with the electric valves from Valterra. Also had to upgrade the 1.5" galley drain pipe to 3" as there aren't any 1.5 electric valves.
Terrible job, but done now.