Reasonable Trade Expectation?

Bottom line, i took it like a man.

With a 20 mos. old boy, and a full size dog we were running out of room quick.

I didnt get quite what i wanted, but we're going to love our new rig, and enjoy our 2 week camping excursion with a lot more comfort.

Thanks all, enjoyed all your posts.

Tom N wrote:

Note: If you sell your old RV you'll have to pay sales tax on the FULL purchase value of your new RV.

Tax laws vary from state to state. In Vermont, this is not true, as I understand it; you may apply the selling price from a previous vehicle to the new one when transferring the registration and only pay the sales/use tax on the difference, regardless of whether the sale of the previous one was to a private party or a trade in with the dealer. Check with your state's DMV or whatever they call it for the actual correct details. (Of course, if you buy the new one before selling the old one, you can't apply the money from the future sale towards the tax on the new one....)

Dtank wrote:

Tom N wrote:
You'll get wholesale for your trade.

No dealer will pay more than wholesale.

They may write up the paperwork showing retail or even more for your trade but that is against full MSRP for the new RV.

The above is correct.

All the supposed negotiating "tricks" with a trade-in are baloney.

If you trade-in - it's *not* a "hit" it's dealer....."BOHICA"..:S
(Bend Over Here It Comes Again")

It's summer! - Sell your trailer yourself.

You will be surprised how many people want it.

Then you can negotiate - - for real..:W

.

The above posts are only true if you are willing to let the dealer have his way with you. Some of us are not. By doing your homework, as in extensive research, which is easy to do thanks to the internet you can determine just where the market is. I spent weeks searching for our Class C, probably looked at every coach in the country that met our needs.

Selling an RV yourself is not for everyone and if you are not prepared to do the work the end result will reflect that. Consignment is often a good option falling between selling it yourself and doing a trade in. The advice to wait until summer to attempt to sell only works in the late spring unless you are prepared to put off the new purchase for a year or so. :R

The rigs that sell quickly are immaculate, well maintained (with full service records/documentation), that are realistically priced. It matters not what you paid or owe the market for comparable units will dictate a price that a buyer will find attractive.

In our case one dealer was very happy to consign our 2008 Pioneer Spirit 22' TT for $9,500 of which I would receive $8,500 (I paid $9,900 for it 5 years earlier), we agreed that a $500 price reduction would get it sold very quickly. Yes, the other dealer tried to low ball me at $4,500 right out of the NADA dealers wholesale book on the trade in and I politely told him no and walked away.

We had already agreed on a very aggressive cash price for the lightly used C we wanted before I mentioned a trade. Five minutes later they came up to the full $8,500 trade in I sought and we saved an additional $600 in sales tax.

They put my TT on their lot for $9,500 and sold it that weekend. The dealer made money four times: when they took the C in trade, when they sold those folks a new Class A, when they sold my TT and when they sold us the used C. That's what they do and how they stay in business but as noted we got exactly what we wanted, at a very good price, and did the entire deal in just a few days.

Yes, you can negotiate with dealers as there are lots of factors that go into any deal. If you expect that the dealer is going to screw you and many will try "IF" you let them (BOHICA), it is time to find another dealer.

As always.... Opinions and YMMV

:C

Sell it yourself sounds good...but. I tried to sell mine I was priced WAY under low retail, about 15-20% under. My price was one of the lowest advertised compared to similar units that were for sale. Had it on 4 different sites including RVT, RVTrader, Craigs for 3 weeks. Not one call or inquiry. None. The trailer I wanted to buy was also from a private party. His was priced about $20,000 under retail. It took them over 2 months to sell. It's not as easy to get rid of as you think. Be prepared to take a real beating...

B.O.

Raymon wrote:
When having a trade-in I like to negotiate the price difference. You must make an accurate estimate of your trade-in and a fair estimate of the purchase price of the new unit. The difference in price should be your negotiating price.

I don't care how much they give me for my trade-in. Many times the trade-in value is exaggerated to make the buyer think they are getting a good deal. But then the purchase price of the new unit is also increased. All I really care
about is how much money I must pay difference to get the new unit.

To use this method, you must be reasonable about the value of your trade-in and also accurately calculate what the new unit could be purchased outright without a trade-in. Many times people over estimate the true value of their trade-in. This is the critical part in negotiating the price you are willing to pay.

Another important thing to remember no matter what you are buying, do not let the sales person have any ideal how much you really want to purchase the item. If they think you are in love with the item, they will not give you the lowest price.

If I like the deal, I buy; if not I tell them "no hard feelings" and I walk. I wish you the best.

Ray

Good point I rec'd 12.5 trade in on my last rig after having no bites at all on CL 12.5 was my asking price. However I am not naive enough to believe the price of the new unit was not inflated due to the trade.
In the end I was happy with the deal

When having a trade-in I like to negotiate the price difference. You must make an accurate estimate of your trade-in and a fair estimate of the purchase price of the new unit. The difference in price should be your negotiating price.

I don't care how much they give me for my trade-in. Many times the trade-in value is exaggerated to make the buyer think they are getting a good deal. But then the purchase price of the new unit is also increased. All I really care
about is how much money I must pay difference to get the new unit.

To use this method, you must be reasonable about the value of your trade-in and also accurately calculate what the new unit could be purchased outright without a trade-in. Many times people over estimate the true value of their trade-in. This is the critical part in negotiating the price you are willing to pay.

Another important thing to remember no matter what you are buying, do not let the sales person have any ideal how much you really want to purchase the item. If they think you are in love with the item, they will not give you the lowest price.

If I like the deal, I buy; if not I tell them "no hard feelings" and I walk. I wish you the best.

Ray

gemsworld wrote:
He'll never be offered anything close to low NADA. The dealer will probably offer 20-25% below low NADA.

There are 2 version of the NADA pricing guide. One is the consumer version that is online and available in a printed version. It shows Suggested original MSRP, LOW RETAIL and AVERAGE RETAIL.

The SECOND version of the NADA guide is the NADA Recreation Vehicle Appraisal Guide. This is the version the dealer uses. This version shows Used WHOLESALE, Retail and Suggested List Prices.

Ask the dealer to see his NADA RV Appraisal Guide. You can also see this version at your local library.

http://www.nadaguidesstore.com/Store/recreation-vehicle-appraisal-guide

Note: If you sell your old RV you'll have to pay sales tax on the FULL purchase value of your new RV.

You will take a hit on a trade but selling yourself is a******shoot. Could sell in days or could take months. A trailer that new could be a tough sell because you will be priced close to brand new models.
Dealer pays wholesale because they have to deal with the pitfalls and risk of selling your trailer.
Selling your self will net you the most cash but you have to take the time and effort to sell it.
Trading is convenient but you will take a bigger financial hit.
Upgrading/changing a 2 year old RV is doable but is generally a losing proposition.

Waste of time trying to do a trade-in with the dealer. BTDT. Sell on CL or to a family member and you will be ahead. Better off to squeeze the dealer for lowest price on just buying a new unit. Maybe wait until fall when they want to clear out 2015 models?

When we ended up moving to a bigger & better TT, we ended up selling our first TT, a 20 footer, to my BIL. He was looking anyway and got a smokin' deal on ours plus I had done a lot of great mods (cost a few thousand $$). Dealer went by the blue book price based solely on model year and offered us peanuts - felt very insulted. Tried CL but bad time of year (Feb.-Mar.) plus too much competition. If you want to sell privately, you need to be prepared to wait. Time of year is important.

Tom N wrote:
You'll get wholesale for your trade.

No dealer will pay more than wholesale.

They may write up the paperwork showing retail or even more for your trade but that is against full MSRP for the new RV.

The above is correct.

All the supposed negotiating "tricks" with a trade-in are baloney.

If you trade-in - it's *not* a "hit" it's dealer....."BOHICA"..:S
(Bend Over Here It Comes Again")

It's summer! - Sell your trailer yourself.

You will be surprised how many people want it.

Then you can negotiate - - for real..:W

.