Towing a 7x12 trailer hauling Goldwing

Pa-N-Nan wrote:
Thanks to all for the comments. This has been very helpful in our decision. Since it is about a grand cheaper we have opted to go for the heavier single axle with brakes and will add a spare tire to the cargo.

One option you might consider (if possible) - get the upgraded axle in the same bolt pattern as your tow vehicle with same size tires - then you can get by with a single spare to use on either.

Generally I believe that where the trailer is licensed will determine the needs. So if you have a trailer in calif and go to wash you are required to meet the home state requirements unless you are hauling commercially which is a whole different ball game.

The only way to tell is not off boards or forums but through the people at the DMV where you have the vehicle/trailer from. Okla did not require license plates on trailers when I lived there and I would have been legal to tow it to other places. It really comes down to whether the LEO if stopped has had a bad donut day or if you were really doing something to get his attention.

Just like trying to determine if a tow dolly is a trailer? Some say they require a tag others dont. I have seen many without and if its the towed veh license then what if you dont have the veh on the dolly? So as I said ask the dmv from where the veh originates and go from there.

mowermech wrote:
Keep in mind that trailer braking laws vary widely (and wildly).
Some states require brakes on trailers that weigh 1500 lbs or more UNLADEN weight.
Some states require brakes on trailers that have a GVW of 3000 lbs or more.
Some states have different numbers, but the important thing is whether it applies to unladen weight or GVW.
I think most states these days require brakes on ALL wheels of a trailer.
Many, if not most, states require a breakaway system on trailers that will hold the brakes applied for at least 15 minutes. If the trailer has electric brakes,these systems have a built in gel cell 12V battery that must be kept charged, so a charge line to the trailer connector is required, and a brake control in the towing vehicle is a necessity. A seven pin connector is the most common.
If the trailer has hydraulic surge brakes, the breakaway feature is built in to the master cylinder actuating mechanism. No battery is needed. A 6 pin or 4 pin connector may be used.
There is no reciprocity for trailer braking laws. You must comply with the laws of the state you are driving in.

Good afternoon. Wondering how it works in your country with reciprocity aggreements. eg, if a trailer I buy in California at 2000 pounds without brakes is legal is it also legal in another state where for example the regulation is 1500 pounds.

Thanks in advance.

John

Keep in mind that trailer braking laws vary widely (and wildly).
Some states require brakes on trailers that weigh 1500 lbs or more UNLADEN weight.
Some states require brakes on trailers that have a GVW of 3000 lbs or more.
Some states have different numbers, but the important thing is whether it applies to unladen weight or GVW.
I think most states these days require brakes on ALL wheels of a trailer.
Many, if not most, states require a breakaway system on trailers that will hold the brakes applied for at least 15 minutes. If the trailer has electric brakes,these systems have a built in gel cell 12V battery that must be kept charged, so a charge line to the trailer connector is required, and a brake control in the towing vehicle is a necessity. A seven pin connector is the most common.
If the trailer has hydraulic surge brakes, the breakaway feature is built in to the master cylinder actuating mechanism. No battery is needed. A 6 pin or 4 pin connector may be used.
There is no reciprocity for trailer braking laws. You must comply with the laws of the state you are driving in.

I have towed my motorcycles all over on a home built single axle trailer without brakes and never had an issue. Initially we got it used and after a time made some upgrades. Had a spring hanger break in Louisiana got to shreveport and took to a shop where the guy was actually a blacksmith. He redid the hangers and never had another problem. Also added some shocks to control axle jump. I ran car tires and they held up well, just dont let them get too old. Your gw is only 900 lbs so if you get too much trailer/springs you will not have enough weight to actually load the springs and it will bounce on ya. Just like trailer pulled behind mc's. Some have 2 leafs and they bounce as they are set up for more weight than is carried. I took 1 leaf out of mine and it was much better. Most trailers do not require brakes until they have a gw of 3000lbs in most states, some may be 1500 but all depends on where it is licensed. Just some thought to consider

Thanks to all for the comments. This has been very helpful in our decision. Since it is about a grand cheaper we have opted to go for the heavier single axle with brakes and will add a spare tire to the cargo.

Bedlam wrote:
I would say you can stay with a single axle, but get the higher rated axle with brakes and load range D tires or better. I tow a little flat bed with 3500 lb axle and no brakes and can feel it behind my truck more than my tandem axle enclosed trailer when braking.

A blown tire should not cause a trailer to scatter it contents unless the hitch mechanism is at fault or the items are not properly tied down in the trailer. I use a front chock and soft ties on all four corners of my 750 lb Concours and 3-point tie downs for my scooters.

I agree a single axle (3500 or better) with brakes should be fine for your Goldwing.

The only thing a blown tire on a single axle trailer should do is give a little trailer sway if any if loaded correctly. JMHO

If you are comfortable with the extra length of the dual axle and the storage challenges it presents at destination I think a dual axle with brakes is a better way to go. We tow a single axle and have for years and have probably 30 thousand miles with no issues but we watch the rear monitor VERY CLOSE (Angela's Job) as a blow out is a real bad thing on a single axle. If you go single axle you will have the advantage of being able to store the trailer mostly under the rear of the motorhome. Make sure you check your tire temps every two hours. Pressure checks every day. Replace your tires every three years.

Tough decision. If you are always going to the same place and storage is not an issue go with a dual axle. Otherwise consider a single.

Good luck. Happy trails. The pic below is essentially a modified motorcycle trailer built by Kendon Industries in Anaheim California.

I would say you can stay with a single axle, but get the higher rated axle with brakes and load range D tires or better. I tow a little flat bed with 3500 lb axle and no brakes and can feel it behind my truck more than my tandem axle enclosed trailer when braking.

A blown tire should not cause a trailer to scatter it contents unless the hitch mechanism is at fault or the items are not properly tied down in the trailer. I use a front chock and soft ties on all four corners of my 750 lb Concours and 3-point tie downs for my scooters.

Go with the tandem axles and brakes, It is much safer.