Looking for some clarification on TV tire pressure, I am clearer on TT pressures. I was always under the impression that you were supposed to air up your TV's tires (ALL FOUR) pressure to max cold when towing (especially with P rated tires). It's just what I have been told since starting to tow as a blanket statement.Then I found out about load charts and you should match tire pressure to load placed on tire. That is all fine and good. Then I was looking at my scale weights and thinking about how several new MFG guidelines now specify you only need half the weight restored to the front of the vehicle.Brings me to this - are your FRONT tires supposed to be aired to max, according to a load chart, or according to the MFG daily driving pressure (non-towing). Reason I am asking is that at best with 100% restoration of weight you are back to the factory weight of the vehicle, you should never be placing More load on the front no matter what you drive. With some vehicles you can now get away with half the weight being redistributed back up front. With either scenario if you do air up the front tires to max you are decreasing the tire footprint on pavement. In the case of reduced weight up front that footprint is even smaller.So, what should you set the front tires to pressure wise and why do you recommend that pressure? Is it strictly for squirm resistance? Another reason? After thinking it through I think I have been doing it wrong all these years and need to get that pressure back down...

I go with max pressure. It's easy and there's no thinking.If I was going to think about it, I'd go with my scaled weight, pad it slightly and go with the load table.

If you got P rated tires on your Tundra, go max pressure on the front. They are soft enough. If you have some good LT tires, then match the weight to the pressure.Not really a set formula, but in general if you're adding weight toa particular axle, air up as necessary. If you're unloading the front axle, then keep it at the psi you use when empty.Example.I run (in the summer) 60psi front and 45-50psi rear in my Doage 2500 diesel. Loaded up with the camper and a trailer in tow, I'm actually unloading the front (Cummins makes good ballast though!)since the camper c of g is just behind the rear axle centerline combined with tongue weight.I knocked the fronts down to 55 psi to soften the ride a bit without too much tire flex and ran 80psi in back for obvious reasons.

There is no one size fits all...even socks...Depends...Tire PSI is more than carry weight but the main (IMHO) thing is to keep thetire shape during all maneuversAlso depends on the class/model/size vs vehicle spec/wheel spec/etc with thebiggie how & where you drive vs the loading for that setupFor my GMT400 Suburban, depends on which set of tires and where I'm atFor my off road setup....it is OEM steel wheels and LT235/85R16E's. On pavementair them up to 80PSI both empty and hauling/towingOnce off road it ranges from 15PSI up to 50PSI, but go no faster than 25MPH whenat 50PSI and crawling when at 15PSIPavement setup is LT265/75R16E's on alloy 16x10. If fooling around empty, therears are about 60PSI and the fronts are 50PSI-60PSI. If towing and can geteven drop or get non-loaded weight back on the front axle (don't weigh it and just measure and/or eyeball from experience) run 60PSI-70PSI front and 80PSIrear no matter how much (loaded hauling or towing heavy)

A P265/70-17 tire at 35 psi or 44 psi P tire is a very soft tire at those pressures. They need all the help possible when towing/hauling.A LT265/70-17 C or D or a E tire at 50 psi or 65 psi or 80 psi is a very stiff tire. When towing with the wifes 1500 crew cab chevy 4x4 with the size above P tires I find max 44 psi works best when towing a trailer even though the tire placard says 35 psi.

I use the tire pressure charts for the load each wheel carries plus 5 psi for luck.Note tires on any one axle should be inflated to the highest needed for the two tire weights.Personally I always make sure my front TV tires INCREASE slightly in weight with TT attached. After all they do all the steering, and most of the braking. I want front tires firmly planted, and tire to road contact patch at maximum. Worked great for over 200,000 miles so far.

TV tire pressure (mainly the front tires) | Good Sam Community

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Jun 12, 2013
gijoecam wrote:
CHD Dad wrote:
Looking for some clarification on TV tire pressure, I am clearer on TT pressures. I was always under the impression that you were supposed to air up your TV's tires (ALL FOUR) pressure to max cold when towing (especially with P rated tires). It's just what I have been told since starting to tow as a blanket statement.

If I had a nickel for every time I've read that on here... It's a hasty generalization at best, and nowhere near what, IMHO, is the *right* way to set tire pressures. More on that in a minute...

Then I found out about load charts and you should match tire pressure to load placed on tire. That is all fine and good. Then I was looking at my scale weights and thinking about how several new MFG guidelines now specify you only need half the weight restored to the front of the vehicle.
{snipped for brevity}

So, what should you set the front tires to pressure wise and why do you recommend that pressure? Is it strictly for squirm resistance? Another reason? After thinking it through I think I have been doing it wrong all these years and need to get that pressure back down...

I set my tire pressures for the load, plain and simple. If that pressure happens to coincide with the OEM's factory recommendation, then it's a happy coincidence as the numbers on the sticker are always handy. The numbers on the door sticker are the recommended pressure for the maximum load the OE tire will see per the ratings. Deviate from that load (e.g. a dually running empty or a sedan with aftermarket tires on it) and all bets are off. Those numbers become a starting point or educated guess, but ultimately may vary for the particular setup in question.

And getting more to your point, I would say that yes, if the load on the front end is only restored to half of what is removed, then I would say that you could safely deflate to the appropriate load based on the charts. That being said, in the case of my Super Duty, even if the full 320lbs stayed off the front end (i.e. no weight distribution), it's not going to move me into the next lower pressure range for my tires, so I just don't worry about it.

We have a winner!!!!!!!
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Jun 12, 2013
Campfire Time wrote:
CapriRacer wrote:
The one thing that hasn't been mentioned is that every vehicle has a vehicle tire placard that lists the original tire size and the proper pressure for that size. If you are using the tire size listed there, then that pressure has been tested by the vehicle manufacturer.

Personally, I think that is the correct pressure to use - unless there is a specific reason to deviate from that.

That's true and usually good advice. However there are other factors. The tires themselves for example. A deviation from OEM tires may not give you the same results, even at the same tire size. I put Firestone Destination LE tires on my Trailblazer. The first thing I noticed was that my mileage dropped, until I put 3 extra PSI in them. OEM pressure in the door is 30 front, 35 rear. With our new HTT I have to run 40psi in the rear and 35 in front. It made a huge difference in the towing experience and in towing mileage.

Those low numbers are so the ride is soft!
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Jun 12, 2013
calewjohnson wrote:
My door jam says 55front and 80rear. That is what I run when towing. I will go to 55rear when not towing so the ride is not so harsh.

Cale

I would add more air to the front tires, with the diesel and the turning you will wear them out pre maturely. 65 minimum. On my 2500 Cummins I always ran 72psi front and 45 rear solo and always made over 100K on the tires.

Weigh your rear axle when loaded 80 may be too much. These numbers they quote are CYA #'s.
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Jun 12, 2013
CapriRacer wrote:
The one thing that hasn't been mentioned is that every vehicle has a vehicle tire placard that lists the original tire size and the proper pressure for that size. If you are using the tire size listed there, then that pressure has been tested by the vehicle manufacturer.

Personally, I think that is the correct pressure to use - unless there is a specific reason to deviate from that.

The pressure you are talking about is based on the trailer being loaded to the MAX. If you carry a light load then weigh your tires and inflate to the proper inflation plus 5psi.
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Jun 12, 2013
Chuck&Gail wrote:
I use the tire pressure charts for the load each wheel carries plus 5 psi for luck.

Note tires on any one axle should be inflated to the highest needed for the two tire weights.

Personally I always make sure my front TV tires INCREASE slightly in weight with TT attached. After all they do all the steering, and most of the braking. I want front tires firmly planted, and tire to road contact patch at maximum. Worked great for over 200,000 miles so far.

You are correct per GY Tech Support. Add 5psi to the inflation charts.
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Jun 12, 2013
ependydad wrote:
I go with max pressure. It's easy and there's no thinking.

If I was going to think about it, I'd go with my scaled weight, pad it slightly and go with the load table.

80 in your front tires is fine but your rear tires won't last long at 80. With your pin weight you should be running 55-60.

Read your door jamb it does not even want max psi on the rear 4 tires.

I bet your ride is not great, try the lower psi and you will be amazed at he better ride.

Weigh your TV and RV axles and use the tire inflation charts for your tires and they will last much longer.
azdryheat
Explorer
Jun 12, 2013
Door sticker says 70 front, 65 rear. Works for me.
CHD_Dad
Explorer
Jun 11, 2013
Appreciate the feedback guys. I do have P rated Michelin M/S 2 tires on the Tundra. I have always run them at the max 44psi cold when towing (all four). Toyota wants 100% restoration of weight up front so I dont need to worry about less weight. As far as squirm, I am sure they do squirm when under lateral load. They have high, relatively soft sidewalls. I can see where pressure would help in that dept. While I dont have too many years of truck experience I have a couple decades worth of tire experience on track cars (autocross and time attack). I could tell a difference in half a pound of pressure on my race tires.

I have a nice long camping trip tomorrow and my Tundra is thirsty for gas so I may play with starting off at my typical 44psi and bump pressure down along the way when I stop to fill up. I have a compressor to air back up if needed and I can take into account hot pressure vs. cold.

Thanks for the feedback and keep it coming if you like. Can never stop learning!
gijoecam
Explorer
Jun 11, 2013
CHD Dad wrote:
Looking for some clarification on TV tire pressure, I am clearer on TT pressures. I was always under the impression that you were supposed to air up your TV's tires (ALL FOUR) pressure to max cold when towing (especially with P rated tires). It's just what I have been told since starting to tow as a blanket statement.

If I had a nickel for every time I've read that on here... It's a hasty generalization at best, and nowhere near what, IMHO, is the *right* way to set tire pressures. More on that in a minute...

Then I found out about load charts and you should match tire pressure to load placed on tire. That is all fine and good. Then I was looking at my scale weights and thinking about how several new MFG guidelines now specify you only need half the weight restored to the front of the vehicle.
{snipped for brevity}

So, what should you set the front tires to pressure wise and why do you recommend that pressure? Is it strictly for squirm resistance? Another reason? After thinking it through I think I have been doing it wrong all these years and need to get that pressure back down...

I set my tire pressures for the load, plain and simple. If that pressure happens to coincide with the OEM's factory recommendation, then it's a happy coincidence as the numbers on the sticker are always handy. The numbers on the door sticker are the recommended pressure for the maximum load the OE tire will see per the ratings. Deviate from that load (e.g. a dually running empty or a sedan with aftermarket tires on it) and all bets are off. Those numbers become a starting point or educated guess, but ultimately may vary for the particular setup in question.

And getting more to your point, I would say that yes, if the load on the front end is only restored to half of what is removed, then I would say that you could safely deflate to the appropriate load based on the charts. That being said, in the case of my Super Duty, even if the full 320lbs stayed off the front end (i.e. no weight distribution), it's not going to move me into the next lower pressure range for my tires, so I just don't worry about it.
calewjohnson
Explorer
Jun 11, 2013
Campfire Time wrote:
CapriRacer wrote:
The one thing that hasn't been mentioned is that every vehicle has a vehicle tire placard that lists the original tire size and the proper pressure for that size. If you are using the tire size listed there, then that pressure has been tested by the vehicle manufacturer.

Personally, I think that is the correct pressure to use - unless there is a specific reason to deviate from that.

That's true and usually good advice. However there are other factors. The tires themselves for example. A deviation from OEM tires may not give you the same results, even at the same tire size. I put Firestone Destination LE tires on my Trailblazer. The first thing I noticed was that my mileage dropped, until I put 3 extra PSI in them. OEM pressure in the door is 30 front, 35 rear. With our new HTT I have to run 40psi in the rear and 35 in front. It made a huge difference in the towing experience and in towing mileage.

True, but you have a Trailblazer. Just as when I used a Suburban, I weighed my truck and adjusted my tire pressures according to the weight at the axles. The suburban was 32 all around, but the tires would squat a lot, which would be dangerous for stability and a possible blow out.

Cale

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