Forum Discussion
professor95
May 22, 2006Explorer
NOW, THIS IS WHERE I WOULD LIKE SOME ADVICE.
I plan on installing this GASOLINE generator into my Montana 5'er. It is going into the front compartment that is meant for a generator. The area below the generator will be open except for wire mesh. The backside and top of the generator compartment will be lined with .030" thick aluminum. The engine and generator head sides will be closed off with aluminum so the cooling air inlet and exit will be through the bottom screened opening. The exhaust will also be piped out under and to the side of my 5'er.
DOES THIS MAKE SENSE? GENERALLY ONBOARD GENSETS ARE PROPANE OPERATED. IS IT SAFE TO HAVE A GASOLINE GENERATOR BUILT INTO THE 5'ER? WHAT PRECAUTIONS ARE NECESSARY?
My take on your project is that it should work out OK, provided some additional changes are implemented.
I strongly encourage you to remove the OEM muffler from the generator and relocate it outside the box. Under the camper and away from the wire mesh would be best. You can make the needed flanges to attach to the original piece on the engine from 1/8" to 3/16" steel plate. Cut to the appropriate shape with a saber saw, drill holes for the mounting studs and use a chain saw or rat-tail file to enlarge the exhaust hole.
You may use 3/4" or 1" EMT (Electrical Metallic Tubing)for exhaust pipe. This is available at home centers. Both sizes are bendable with a hand bender or you can buy pre-bent sweeps at 45 or 90 degrees. Connections between the pipe can be handled with couplers - stamped steel are better than the cast type. Add a little muffler sealer dope or high temp RTV from an autoparts store to the coupler connections. Weld or braze the flanges to the pipe ends (this can be tricky). The brazing can be done with a propane type torch using a MAPP cylinder and a "blue flux" brazing rod. You should remove the galvanized coating from the ends before you weld or braze by dipping them in muratic acid. Of course, do all this outside and avoid breathing any vapors.
As far as gasoline vs. propane, gasoline vapors are heavier than air and any present in the cabinet will fall out the bottom mesh. Just as a precaution, I would not fill the fuel tank high enough for it to slosh out while in transit. Also be sure there are no switches that can arc when activated or unbonded metal parts than can build up static charges in or near the vented area of the compartment.
A small fan in one corner of the mesh might be helpful. You don't need much to get air moving around the engine. 4" to 6" 110V or 12V "muffin" fans are available from everything from old computer power supplies to stores like Northern Tool.
I would also suggest covering the outside of the aluminum housing for the box with foil wrapped duct insulation. Use metal tape to secure the foil insulation, not cloth duct tape.
Be sure the generator frame is bonded to the coach frame.
Again, these are my opinions and are not hard & fast rules. It IS how I would handle the project if I were doing what you propose.
Please let us know how it works out.
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