3000W Chinese Gensets Info.

elking wrote:
Professor95. To follow up on the Contractor Line Generator(also sold by Homier)I performed the voltage check that you described on page 206 of this thread to the poster "icecutter" whom is having the same problem I'm having.(also the same generator). The voltage across the two 120 volt outlets on the short side is in fact 0 volts. So I'm to assume the coil is wired in parallel and that each outlet should supply full current to each outlet? Please advise. Thanks!

If your test showed zero volts between the two short slots, the generator should indeed be wired so that the coils are in parallel.

You are refering to this generator as a "contractor" set. Therefor I am assuming it is not the 2,800 watt Chinese built unit with the 5.5 Honda engine clone. Giving more specific detail (model #) would help to better understand your situation. I can then look up the unit on Homier's web site.

There is a big difference between peak and surge watts - the difference is like night and day. I do not know if the manufacturer or person who drew up the advertising really knows the difference. Surge watts is the amount of specified current that can be sustained at the rated voltage for a specific period of time - usually 2-3 seconds. Peak watts is meaningless in this respect.

Compressor motors can put a real strain on a generator when starting if they cannot supply adequate power to get the motor rolling. Resistive loads come on slowly and generally do not strain the generator like a motor.

Just to test the capacity of the system, you might try plugging in two small electric heaters. At least one should be able to switch between 1,000 and 1,500 watts. Start with one on 1,500 watts, then add the second at 1,000 watts. If the generator sustains the load it is putting out 2,500 watts - close to the rated 2,800. Your total voltage drop should not exceed 5% of the unloaded reading. Kick in the extra 500 watts to bring the total to 3,000 watts. If the breaker holds, you should see 3-4 volts drop on the output to around 105-108 VAC. The breaker should eventually trip after a few minutes.

If you pass the above test, you will know the generator is OK, but cannot supply the "surge" wattage needed to get the appliances you tried to power rolling. There is nothing you can do to the generator to improve this.

If possible, you might also try plugging the AC directly into the generator, bypassing the camper entirely. Turn on the AC fan first, then kick in the compressor a few seconds later. If you cannot plug the AC in directly, be sure you have your refrigerator either on propane or off, the converter unplugged and no electric water heater elements glowing. Parasitic loads in the camper can make a big, big difference is total load.

Please let me know your results.