3000W Chinese Gensets Info.

extexaco wrote:

Oldfordman wrote:

Yoslick wrote:
"Internal engine tolerances in the Champion engine are not compatible with synthetic oil or synthetic blend."

I find this very hard to understand??

Slick!! (who run's both his Genny's on Amsoil synthetic)

Synthetic Oils are still oil. They do all the things oil do, just resist heat better which will make them last longer. If an oil resists heat better and maintains its viscosity through a wide range of heat, it isn't good for an engine? (Insert comment here that describes the residue in the Bull's Pen).

I will be using a 20W-50 synthetic in my genset because I don't want to have to change oil every time I travel to a different climate. If I leave my house where the average temp is in the 60's and travel through the Mountains, to Desert, out to the Coast, and back home, I would have to carry 4 different grades of oil in order to follow the manual to the letter.

For those that predict an early failure, I have been doing this for years with other generators, pressure washers, lawnmowers, and pumps. What is the MOST IMPORTANT fact here is that the oil be CHANGED regularly. For those that think that the crankcase just has to be full, and adding new oil does all that is necessary, good luck.

For those that are "afraid" of Synthetic Oils (perhaps because you don't understand them) it might be time to remember that this is the 21st century. Things have truly improved since oil was first placed in cans.

I think you may be missing the point. It's not whether Synthetic oil is good, but it's about the tolerances within the engine.
I have a 93 Nissan Pathfinder with 302000 miles on it. Oil changes have been made every 3000 miles with conventional motor oil. I also have a 2001 Toyota Tundra that has 60000 miles on it. I have used Royal Purple in it since break in (8000 miles). I would never at this point in the Pathfinder's life put synthetic oil in it. The engine possibly could not handle the synthetic due to 17 years of wear on the internal parts.
I don't have first hand knowledge of the engine tolerances of the Champion-don't own one. But I think the original comment was about engine tolerances and not on the performance of synthetic oil.

I don't think YOU understand synthetic oils. Perhaps you might read some of the data sheets that are available from every manufacturer of Syn. oils. In short, they are the SAME as dino except for their resistance to heat breakdown. Synthetic Oils are designer oils. They are literally built from scratch to do a job. Dino Oils are "Blended" to accomplish their purpose. As such, one has to settle for compromises.

If what you say was to be true, then that Dodge 318 I changed to Synthetic oil at 170,000 miles (when I bought it) should have fallen apart in no time. In FACT, it is still running today and has over 340,000 miles on it. It is a myth that Synthetic oils will cause an old engine (assuming it was well maintained to begin with) to fall apart. Lots of stories that begin with "I know a guy who---" but no documented cases.

Back to Generators. I will use Synthetic 20W-50 in mine and you are welcome to use whatever you want in yours. I can't think of a better use for synthetics. A small crankcase holding 1/2 quart of oil on average certainly needs an oil that resists temperature.

If you are speaking specifically of tolerances, the generator engine being looser (thus the suggested 30 and 40 weight oils) then take a look at the Castrol Syntec Data sheet for their 20W-50 oil. It has a higher viscosity (thus able to separate metal better in those "loose tolerance" engines) than any of the single grade oils at a temp of 100 deg. Celsius (212 deg F). A full 4 centistoke points higher. As to cost? $5 worth of oil (one quart) will not only do an oil change but most likely provide enough make-up oil, if needed for an entire season.