Forum Discussion
Old___Slow
Sep 01, 2007Explorer
Oldfordman wrote:jimmyfred wrote:One overlooked fact here is the distance from the house the genset will be running. Most SAFETY recommendations call for a greater distance than the 25-30 feet of cord you are referring to. Some recent pamphlets have suggested a minimum of 50' from a residence for a gasoline generator.skyzoomer wrote:
This is an amazing thread with amazing contributors. Have learned so much and have only read less than half of the posts but intend to read every post as time permits. Did happen to jump from page 56 to page 200 where posts on the Champion C46540 started.
I don't own a RV but bought a Champion C46540 to power our home during power failures via a transfer switch. I have some questions and would appreciate some help setting it up.
=====
INTENDED CONFIGURATION:
1. Connect the RV connector to a Gen-Tran 30116V, 6 circuit transfer switch which has a L5-30, 3 prong male connector.
2. The optimum cable length is 30 feet. 25 feet is a tad tight.
=====
LOAD:
I intend to reserve wattage as follows:
1. Have 2 refrigerators so plan to alternate running them. Only one will be powered at a time.
a) Figure about 700 running watts with 2100 starting watts.
b) Generator has 4000 peak watts. So 4000 watts - 2100 watts = 1900 watts to run other stuff.
2. Tabletop portable range. Burner-1 = 1000 watts, Burner-2 = 500 watts. Kitchen lights = 150 watts. So total load while cooking = 1650 watts.
3. When not using tabletop range, might use 1200 watt microwave.
4. When not cooking, the 1900 watts would be used for various lights in home.
=====
QUESTIONS:
1. Will a 30 foot, 30 amp, 10-3 RV power cord be OK or will it run warm? Should I consider a 30 foot cord using #8 wire instead?
2. Where can I buy a TT30P RV plug connector if I make a 30 foot, 8-3 power cord? I've googled but have not been able to find the RV male connector alone anyplace.
3. Is my method of subtracting 2100 watts for the refrigerator from the 4000 watts peak to have 1900 remaining useable watts valid?
4. While sleeping, could both refigerators be running without overloading the C46540? All other circuits would be switched off.
5. Anyone with experience using the Gen-Tran 30116V transfer switch? Recommended?
Thanks,
Skyzoomer
...........1)Yes , 10-3 is plenty big...
...........2)Wal-Mart sells a 30 am RV plug
...........3)I would figure 3500 total available for a total wattage available number . If , one fridge is running at 700 watts , then the add'tl 2100 should be readily available to start the other fridge . Just as long as they both don't start simultaneously .
...........4)Yes....
...........5)No experience here ... , jf
You indicate that you plan on running the generator while sleeping to keep the refer's going. Be very carefull that you are not having Carbon Monoxide infiltrating your sleeping area. Numerous deaths were attributed to running generators here in the NW during last falls power outages. While it may be a common practice to run Generators near RV's there is usually a great deal more air circulation around RV's than their may be in a fenced yard.
For myself, I have an underground line that allows me to feed my transfer switch while running the generator 100 feet from the house. The wire size is #6 so I am not worried about voltage drop, or CO for that matter. The line is also dual purpose. With some switching, it also becomes a power line to the RV when power is on and I'm not using it for a Generator connection.
Oldfordman:
You are always so interesting.
On the issue of CO. What is your thought about factory installed gennys? Will using propane help?
O&S
About Technical Issues
Having RV issues? Connect with others who have been in your shoes.24,210 PostsLatest Activity: Mar 04, 2025