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3000W Chinese Gensets Info.

professor95
Explorer
Explorer
professor95 wrote:
EDIT ADDED 45/5/2013- When this thread started in March of 2005, I never expected to see it survive this long or amass the quantity of information that has been shared here.

In the eight year run of this thread we have amassed almost 10,000 postings and surpassed a million views. This creates somewhat of a dilemma for anyone who has just discovered the forum.

Since the amount of information is virtually overwhelming, I suggest you set your preferences for this thread to read "newest first" and then begin to page backwards.

What you will find in these pages is a wealth of info on virtually any make or model of Chinese manufactured synchronous (non-inverter) generator in the 3,000 watt performance class. Info will include how to rewire series coils to parallel to obtain maximum wattage from a single 120 volt outlet. Tips on further reducing sound levels, how to care for these generators, which ones are "RV ready" and provide the best overall performance for the dollar invested. Which companies NOT to deal with, where the best prices are, how to safely wire the generator into a home or RV, how to check your RV for electrical faults, sources for generator accessories, which 20/30 adapters are safe to use and which are not. How to convert a gasoline generator to propane or NG. This is only the beginning. The forum has a life of its own with the focus sub-topic switching frequently. Still, the main topic of utilizing the amazing, inexpensive Chinese gensets is always there. The amount of creativity and innovation presented in these pages is indicative of the talents shared in the diverse backgrounds of the folks who make up our combined RV community.

Many of the original brands and models of Chinese gensets mentioned in the introduction and early pages of the thread have since disappeared. New EPA and CARB emissions requirements, company bonds assuring the emissions warranty will be honored even if the company goes out of business, and fierce competition in the industry have changed the playing field. Champion Power Equipment has become the apparent "trophy team" providing an ever expanding retail outlet, an ample parts supply, a strong warranty and excellent customer service. CPE has continued to improve their product and now offers a new model (#46538) with exclusive convenience, safety and performance features aimed at the RV market. Big names like Cummins/Onan, Honda and Generac all now have Chinese built open frame synchronous gensets available. Ironically, the prices often found on these gensets has not significantly changed during the past eight years - even with the devaluation of the American Dollar and new EPA/CARB requirements.

I also encourage you to use the search function and even the advanced search options to find information. Key works such as "rewiring", "PowerPro", "Champion", "Onan Homesite", "Duropower", "ETQ", "Jiung Dong or JD", "Tractor Supply", "Costco", "Lowe's" and "Home Depot" are all examples of keywords that will give you specific information on different models being sold by retailers today.

Or, you can fill your glass with your favorite beverage (keep more close by - maybe some munchies as well :D, sit back at your computer, tell your wife (or significant other) that you will see her in the morning and spend the next 10 or so hours reading through the postings.

No one on the forum gets mad if you ask a question that is a repeat. Please do not hesitate to post to the forum. All questions are considered important and those active on the forum will do their best to respond with a valid answer.

Also note we are not out to knock the Honda, Yamaha, Kipor or other brands of high end digital gensets. We recognize the quality of these products and their suitability for quite, efficient RV use. But, there is a flood of reliable, inexpensive and comparatively lower cost gensets coming out of China that are excellent alternative choices for the RVer wanting power to run an air conditioner, microwave, etc. without excessive noise or breaking the budget.

Oh, one last thing. The folks on this forum are true gentlemen. We do not flame one another or the product discussed - period. Ugly contributors usually have their comments and remarks ignored by our masses. It is not a forum to start arguments to obtain a clear win. We do disagree on many issues, but we have all agreed to do that in a respectable manner.

We now have the introduction of more and more inverter gensets. There is a rather extensive thread named "The Official Unofficial Champion 2000i Generator" on this forum. Today, I added info on the new Champion 3100i inverter genset. Discussion on this product may get moved to its own thread at a later date.

Many have looked upon this thread with distain saying Chinese is cheap and doomed to failure. I remember saying exactly the same thing about Japanese products a few decades back. But, over the past eight years the track record for Chinese built generators has shown otherwise.

Please, join us in a fascinating journey down the Chinese built genset road of knowledge.

This is the question I posted that got it all started back in March 2005.......

Randy


For a little over a month now, I have been somewhat intrigued by the availability of a 3000 watt, 6.5 HP generator at Pep Boys and Northern Tool for under $300.00. The engine on this generator looks identical to a Honda 6.5 HP OHV engine. Knowing that the Chinese have become very adept at โ€œcloningโ€ reputable technologies from other manufacturers, I was not surprised at the similarities. Neither store could give me any information on the generator nor did they have a โ€œrunningโ€ display model.

I have done a little research. This is what I have discovered:

Many of these generators are imported by ELIM International (www.eliminternational.com) out of Buffalo, New York from Jiung Manufacturing in China. (The unit at Northern is identical but carries the JIUNG name.)

The engines are indeed a Chinese knockoff of the popular 6.5 HP 196cc Honda Engine. โ€œSupposedlyโ€ Honda has licensed the engine technology to the Chinese manufacturer of the product.

The Chinese company that makes the ELM3000 generators is a rather large, diverse, long-standing company with a reputation for โ€œabove average qualityโ€ Chinese made products (Jiung Manufacturing). There are many more Chinese companies making almost identical gensets.

The generators at PepBoys do have a six month limited warranty. But, it is only on the engine (not the generator) and requires paying for shipping to and from Buffalo. Probably not a very practical thing to do if you have warranty issues.

ELIM does supply replacement parts (a PDF parts manual is available on the ELIM web site). No prices are given for replacement parts nor is there an โ€œavailability listingโ€.

The generator head itself is a brushless design. The only really significant wear parts in the generator are the bearings โ€“ most likely universally available.

The published dB rating is 67 at 23 feet. This is โ€œreasonablyโ€ quite for a generator of this size as most comparabl.... The 67 dB rating is the same as Honda gives their 3000 watt CycloInverter with a โ€œlook alikeโ€ eng...






















Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.
10,029 REPLIES 10,029

limerick001
Explorer
Explorer
(Quoted)
>Many of us who contribute to this thread almost bought the PowerMax

>Brand. I am interest to know more of what you discover as time goes

>by.

The Powermax brand is one that is sold by MaxTool.com. About 2 years ago, I bought one of the 3500 watt/4400 watt surge models with electric start for $379 plus tax. Went to Los Angeles from San Diego to pick it up, spent $50 in gas, round trip - saved on shipping.

To sum it up, fired up on first try, forgot to do the 'break-in' period, still gave me Yeoman service! ๐Ÿ™‚ It's downfall with me was,
I do light welding with a 120 volt MIG and it would trip the breaker on one side about every 3rd-4th time I'd pull the trigger, as it did not have a 120 volt switch to put both fields into phase for full current, nor did it have a 30 amp 3 prong twist lock outlet. That REALLY was the only problem, underpowered on the 120 side because of it. Sold it to a hispanic fellow at a car wash we frequent who had a mobile car detailing biz on the side that he was setting up.

Now I'm out for the Champion C41365 that Prof95 referenced in one of
his posts. No worries about being underpowered with that beast! LOL!

Ron

fourwinds29Q
Explorer
Explorer
Yea these people were clapping from the other side of the campground. We were camping with other units running quieter units. All I could say was "Sorry".

trumptman88
Explorer
Explorer
fourwinds29Q wrote:
I took my champion to a National Park and ran it during daylight hours only. I got my feelings hurt when I shut it down and the people in the tents started clapping. OOpps didnt mean to tick them off but it sure was nice having a/c to cool off in.


Well even though I own a Champion and a generator, I'm often of the same opinion when I am out in my tent. This is partially why I think even the snootiness of the Honda and Yamaha owners is lame. If you get far enough into nature and away from the artificial noise of man, then any and every noise is intrusive be it 58 db or 67 db.

When I camp in a campground where it is tents or trailers limited to say... 22 or under feet, I don't want to hear a generator.

If I am in a campground, or a state or national park area where larger trailers are the norm, then I don't mind it for battery charging or the middle of the day heat. However calling yourself camping and then running it 10-16 hours a day is just silly.

Old___Slow
Explorer
Explorer
mitt wrote:
Which brands have the most honest marketing department? :h

The HP versus engine cc seems to correlate pretty well:



But, the rated watts and HP do not, it seems like BlueMax and Champion are very optimistic, and are probably not accurate to true ratings:



mitt



Seems to me Champion & Blue Max certainly think outside the BOX of truthful advertisement. apparently?:@ Someone will let us know the real truth one day. Some pretty smart men and instruments around these parts and the truth shall be known.:h

MitchF150
Explorer III
Explorer III
I use a Honda 3000i...;)

Mitch
2013 F150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab Max Tow Egoboost 3.73 gears #7700 GVWR #1920 payload. 2019 Rockwood Mini Lite 2511S.

toprudder
Explorer
Explorer
walkeraw wrote:
I plan on getting a small capacity transfer switch to handle only a few essential circuits in the house. I do not need a large capacity switch. The 4000/3500 Champion would be large enough to satisfy the power needs of the devices on the transfer switch/circuits. I do not foresee these devices/circuits power requirements changing in the future. If my 4000/3500 Champion dies/burns up/whatever, I would think I should be able to replace it with a larger generator (i.e. 4.5k, 5k, or 7.5k) without having to also replace the transfer switch. Just because a generator has the ability to provide extra power doesn't mean that the extra power will be used. I still don't understand how this can cause problems. Is this just a marketing ploy to sell more transfer switches or is it that I cannot see the forest for the trees?


Best to get the explanation directly from the source. (pun intended):)

info@gen-tran.com

Bob R.
Bob, Martha, and Matt.
Tucker, the Toy Poodle
'09 K-Z MXT20, '07 Chevy 2500HD Duramax

Toprudder.com

mitt
Explorer
Explorer
Which brands have the most honest marketing department? :h

The HP versus engine cc seems to correlate pretty well:



But, the rated watts and HP do not, it seems like BlueMax and Champion are very optimistic, and are proably not accurate to true ratings:



mitt

Old___Slow
Explorer
Explorer
Quote from Wgeorge11... Check here for some sound abatement discussion.

Wgeorge11,

Sorry, I must have missed the 'discussion' part with your link to past posts. Discussion, "to talk about a subject or have a discourse or informal talking together" 'My Language Master' might have miss the last boat out to China, where this all began. Please, correct me if I am wrong headed in my old age.

Floyd

Old___Slow
Explorer
Explorer
AZJIM1 wrote:
Old & Slow wrote:
Now, on a New front I am in the process of developing a sound enclosure for a STOCK 3000w genny and testing gives me low 50's DbA readings with marvelous cooling. Prof95 has a retrofitted enclosure with such a reading that includes a LPG retro. A few others already (like Lew) have done well in the area. My read is that we can have these STOCK 3000w Chinese gennys sound real 'sweet and low' on the cheap and be the talk of the CG's if that's what you like.:B
I for one am very interested in this . . . Some kind of enclosure for a stock generator would be great for a bunch of us I am sure. Let us know when you have it worked out!!


AZJIMI:

After struggling with the idea of some way to lower the sound of these 3500w Chinese genny over the past six months, many times in building (constructing)various boxes, I thought the answer had been discovered. Then, up jumped the devil in the details. At the present time I have a new idea in use for a genny that required no cuts to be made to the Stock frame. The box is vary simple to construct with a minimum of tools. It will lower the sound by many DbA/s and cool like the north pole. However, a few more hours are needed to finish the time trials before any pictures are posted. My personal feeling is many are now working on this same project. Sometime in the near future we should be hearing and seeing some really neat boxes. Some folks are more open than others to allow OPEN discussion. Let's hope we can all learn from each other and add our own new ideas to the mix, (this should not be a one man/woman show) thus becoming more pleasing folks to our neighbors at home or our campin' neighbors, with a nice sweet and low sounding genny and have some fun in the process.


Floyd
O&S

fourwinds29Q
Explorer
Explorer
I took my champion to a National Park and ran it during daylight hours only. I got my feelings hurt when I shut it down and the people in the tents started clapping. OOpps didnt mean to tick them off but it sure was nice having a/c to cool off in.

77charger
Explorer
Explorer
I use mine mainly in the desert so far it has ran constantly in 100 deg heat from fri til sunday non stop and alot of hours at the sand dunes.Last weekend i had it runnin most of the day it was windy also.Ran fine til iturned it off next morn i go to start it struggled right away.Tried to figure out what was wrong(acted like it was under a very heavy load)Fiddled around found that the throttle blade in the carb was stuck you can see from the top of carb where the springs connect to it.

Shot some parts cleaner cleaned up the outside part got it to move fired up gen still struggled throttle stuck again.Took off filter very little sand made it thru got it unstuck for good but it struggled again looked at my brothers closely found that the smaller spring came off on the oppostie side(away from carb)put it back in and so far it seems that was part of the problem combined with the stuck throttle.I usually place it on top of a piece of plywood so it aint directly on the sand.Guess next time it will have to stay in the bed of the truck.I have never had this prob before but then agan i have only owned this gen since early august.

I guess when the throttle got stuck and the other part where the spring connects must have moved and caused the spring to fall out(it is a very thin spring too).

Anyhow something to keep an eye on besides that i am still happy with it and mine seems a lil quiter than my brothers and my uncles not by much but slightly noticable.

walkeraw
Explorer
Explorer
toprudder wrote:
walkeraw wrote:
I am a little confused in regard to transfer switches. I'm looking at some of the "GenTran" types (6 circuit, individual switches for utility/generator) as others on here have mentioned. Supposedly, you should not connect a larger generator to the transfer switch (thereby exceeding the switch ratings??). I.E. Don't connect a 7000w generator to a 3750w rated transfer switch without having the generator "breakered" for 3750w. I don't understand why. Doesn't the switch itself limit the power (amperage) via its circuit breakers (and associated ratings of the internal hardware and wire gauge)? It appears to me the components are the same in number and ratings (with maybe the gauge of wires being the exception?). I guess I need a "Transfer Switch for Dummies Guide"!
Bottom line is that I would like to have the ability to hook up a larger generator and not have to worry about the transfer switch (or upgrade it to a larger capacity).

Apparently some of the components used in the smaller transfer switches are not rated for the higher capacity. Just taking a quick look at the gen-tran website, I found the installation manual and found the schematic for one of the transfer switches. They have CTs (current transformers) connected to watt meters on the front panel, which helps determine to loads in use. I suspect these may be part of the limiting factor. (I suspect these are not true watt meters, as they appear to only give current readings.)

I also saw in the information for one of the transfer switches this statement: "All wires, conduit, fittings and wire connectors included." Obviously, these must be sized for the capability of the power source.

The price for a 7500w rated, 6 circuit system is not much more than the 3750w system, $316 vs $274.

Bob R.


I plan on getting a small capacity transfer switch to handle only a few essential circuits in the house. I do not need a large capacity switch. The 4000/3500 Champion would be large enough to satisfy the power needs of the devices on the transfer switch/circuits. I do not foresee these devices/circuits power requirements changing in the future. If my 4000/3500 Champion dies/burns up/whatever, I would think I should be able to replace it with a larger generator (i.e. 4.5k, 5k, or 7.5k) without having to also replace the transfer switch. Just because a generator has the ability to provide extra power doesn't mean that the extra power will be used. I still don't understand how this can cause problems. Is this just a marketing ploy to sell more transfer switches or is it that I cannot see the forest for the trees?

StlHeadake
Explorer
Explorer
I am eagerly reading. I started reading this thread about a year ago. I waded through soooo many pages, but it looked like an insurmountable task. Now I feel sooo much better. I can't wait to start getting into this project.

I am primarily interested in fitting this generator into my genset compartment. I must be fairly quiet as the compartment is located under MY bed. I am most worried about vibrations. I think I can get this to work...

Thank you for all your hard work and innovation! Just know that immitation is the sincerest form of flattery.
My wife and I, our daughter, three wonderful little boys, and two chocolate labs Jazz and Bailey ;^}

'06 3/4 ton Chevy Silverado CrewCab SB Duramax/Allison
2010 Keystone Avalanche 335 RB

blkfe
Explorer
Explorer
StlHeadake wrote:
AZJIM1 wrote:
Old & Slow wrote:
Now, on a New front I am in the process of developing a sound enclosure for a STOCK 3000w genny and testing gives me low 50's DbA readings with marvelous cooling. Prof95 has a retrofitted enclosure with such a reading that includes a LPG retro. A few others already (like Lew) have done well in the area. My read is that we can have these STOCK 3000w Chinese gennys sound real 'sweet and low' on the cheap and be the talk of the CG's if that's what you like.:B
I for one am very interested in this . . . Some kind of enclosure for a stock generator would be great for a bunch of us I am sure. Let us know when you have it worked out!!


I must know how this works! I want a genset for my RV but I won't pay for one. I have been experimenting with differing exhausts to quiet my 8700 watt down. The engine gets quieter, but the whole thing makes a lot of noise!

PLEASE PLEASE share your knowledge oh wise one!



Floyd is being too kind. The truth is his retrofit looks be be a great success due to his hard work and ability to imagine what he wants and to build it. He took my suggestions and IMPROVED them. I admire people who question, think, and test. I will put together a complete "story" so to speak along with pictures and db readings. I guess what I am trying to say is he deserves the credit for what looks to be a successful project, not me. I only hope I have his "vinegar" when I am as old as wise as him. (sorry about the "old" thing):B

Thanks Floyd,
Brad

Edit.....
For StlHeadke:In case you have not seen it, hear is a link to my original retrofit. I must say that
allot of people who post on this thread had a part in making it a success.

Brad's retrofit

professor95
Explorer
Explorer
I wrote this back in Septmber 07 but never posted it to the forum. Perhaps the info herwithin will be of some benefit to members asking questions about sound abatement.

The sound or โ€œnoiseโ€ level of my first Chinese built 3,000 watt genset was acceptable at 67 dB. It met the maximum set by the National Park Service at a distance of 21 feet and was far and away quieter than any portable generator I had previously used with my travel trailer.

Still, it was loud compared to the available models sold as quite gensets like the Honda 3000I. A trip to the solitude of a National Forest campground confirmed that while the noise from the generator was within the set limits, it was too loud for the particular environment we were occupying.

I set out to come up with a way to reduce the sound level of the generator.

Experimentation almost immediately revealed that the noise was not from an inadequate muffler. In fact, the OEM muffler on the genset was more than adequate at reducing sound levels. Added resonators, extensions or diverting the exhaust through stacks and down pipes offered nothing.

Some rather crude testing using fiberglass insulation and heavy moverโ€™s pads placed at various locations showed that the majority of noise was coming from the flywheel side of the engine and the area below the cylinder. The generator head (alternator) had a very low noise level. Just placing the insulation near or over the suspect areas could drop noise levels by 2-3 dB.



I then constructed a three sided enclosure with a top, keeping the alternator end open, out of ยผโ€ fanfold polystyrene insulation board. It worked well in reducing sound levels to the 64 dB level on all but the open side. For a while I stored the thin insulation board under the mattress in the RV for use when the generator was needed. But, alas, it was a real hassle to drag it out and set it up. It also provided no real sound reduction benefit on the open end.



In September of โ€™06 I decided to make an enclosure for the entire generator. I settled on a rather elaborate design using numerous baffles to reduce sound paths and fans to assure adequate circulation of air for cooling the engine. I isolated the muffler with an โ€Lโ€ shaped piece of aluminum and removed the gas tank. The major obstacles I encountered were providing power for the fans (the genset did not have a 12 volt DC output), designing a fuel delivery system for the now remote gas tank, radiant heat from the muffler raising internal temperatures โ€“ even with a heat shield โ€“ and the mass or bulk of the completed project. It was heavy, much larger than the original and in the long run way over built. Still, it did provide sound reduction on the order of 5 dB โ€“ a considerable amount when using the unit in an otherwise quite campground. I abandoned the enclosure later in the winter of โ€™07 believing I could come up with a better system.

In the Spring of โ€™07, before a trip back to the National Forest campground, I mounted the genset in the back of my truck (tow vehicle). I made some mounting skids from 2x4 lumber and constructed an exhaust pipe that exited through the roof of the truckโ€™s fiberglass camper shell. This setup provided a significant reduction in sound but required opening a window on the camper shell and loosing some valuable storage space in the bed of the truck.



It proved to be only a temporary solution since I usually removed the camper shell during the summer so that the golf cart or jet ski could be placed in the truck bed and carried with us on our trips to the beach or lake.

By the summer of โ€™07, I had acquired two new Chinese built gensets. One was an electric start Champion 40008 capable of producing up to 4,000 watts of power at 120 volts, the other was a 7,500 peak watt unit utilizing an engine similar to the 13 HP Honda GX390. While the output of the smaller genset destined for RV use had been improved, the sound level had not. I had also become interested in using propane as an alternate fuel for gensets and successful converted both a Generac 5,500 and my new Champion 7,500 watt home back-up power generator to run on propane from an underground 300 gallon tank. Propane was the perfect fuel for my home generator; it did not go bad when stored for long periods of time and it was easy for me to store large quantities.





Both factors were extreme priorities after spending two weeks without commercial power after hurricane Isabel and one week after tropical storm Gaston. I required about 100 gallons of gasoline to keep the backup generator running during the aftermath of Isabel - no small feat in itself.

By late summer of โ€™07 my attention once again turned to some type of sound abatement enclosure for the Chinese built generator I used with the RV.

My previous attempts at building a sound abatement enclosure had taught me what NOT to do. I now knew that there were two priorities that would have to be met to insure some form of success:

1. The muffler had to be outside of the enclosure to lower internal temperatures. Efforts to shield the muffler inside the enclosure had been disappointing.

2. The fuel tank (or fuel source) could not be inside the enclosure. From a safety perspective, I was not comfortable with gasoline being inside a closed compartment.

I began to conduct some much needed research on the characteristics of sound waves along with their propagation and reproduction. Not surprisingly, the best source of information was found from elements of acoustical design. Buildings, auditoriums, speaker cabinets and even boom cars all draw from the same basic principles.

In designing a new enclosure, there were four basic principles that had to be considered; reflection, absorption, frequency and amplitude.

Through measurements made with a microphone, graphic equalizer and oscilloscope it was determined that the majority of sound energy was, as expected, under 5,000 Hz.

The amplitude had previously been established through measurements with a digital sound level meter and manufacturerโ€™s data.

Since the sound frequencies were below 5,000 Hz, a small enclosure would do a better job of canceling the sound waves. Low frequencies have a longer wave length or period than high frequencies - the smaller the cabinet, the more attenuation of low frequency sound will occur. Audiophiles depend upon large diameter speakers, cabinets and tuned reflex ports for low frequency reproduction. Conversely, small diameter speakers and cabinets do a better job of reproducing high frequencies.

Anyone who has ever hooked up a set of speakers knows that they must be equally phased to reproduce sound properly. If one speaker is out of phase, or pulling the speaker cone in while the opposite speaker is pushing the cone out, the resultant sound waves will somewhat counter each other. Reflection of sound waves would be important in an enclosure to reduce sound pressure.

Absorption of sound waves turned out to be a considerably more complex than I originally believed. While it is true that materials with an open cellular structure can do an effective job of absorbing sound, caution must be exercised in selecting the material to assure there is sufficient density to cancel the effects of sound transmissions. Simply stated, when sound waves hit the surface of some materials the molecules in the material can also move or vibrate at the same rate as the sound pressure pushing against the material. Density, or thickness, of the material is a factor for consideration.

Add to all this my personal requirement that whatever I built to house the genset must not, in any way, compromise the original construction so that I could not at a later date return the genset to its original condition.

For my particular application, maintaining portability of the genset was not a priority. I had previously built a carrier on the back of my TT (with proper consideration for weights) and intended to permanently mount the genset square in the middle of the carrier. This would allow external mounting of the muffler under the carrier.

OK, letโ€™s review both my personal requirements and needed elements to make the project successful:

1. Make no changes to the original genset that cannot be reversed.
2. Allow for adequate airflow to cool the engine and alternator, keeping the absolute maximum temperature under 175 degrees F.
3. Create a remote fuel source.
4. Move the muffler out of the enclosure.
5. Make the enclosure small.
6. Build the enclosure from materials that allow both reflection and absorption of sound waves.

Based on my findings, the ideal enclosure would be a perfect hemisphere (ball), the walls would be about 6โ€ thick and made of both low density and high density material and there would be multiple small openings of less than 2โ€ that could be tuned by inserting or withdrawing tubes (tuned port theory). Not a very practical item to build or use. A compromise enclosure containing all of the possible elements would have to be designed and built.

I did design and built such an enclosure and shared the construction/results on the forum.



Sound presssure at 21 feet was....




Professor Randy T. Agee
September 2007
Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.