3000W Chinese Gensets Info.

professor95 wrote:

mauricedorris wrote:

Professor... I am sure that there must be some sort of transfer switch. After all, I am planning to connect this generator to the same three wires that I disconnected from the Onan that I removed. I will do some research on this.

Regarding the gas line.. I'm not being stubborn, just curious and adventurous. I wanted to have creative contribution to the process that I could share. Nonetheless, I finally hear you and will set up the return line. I actually bought another 15 feet of fuel line just incase I had to go this route.

I do appreciate the stern advice. I'm not listening, so you gotta say it louder, right?

The transfer switch should be an automatically actuating device. It most likely will have a delay of 20-30 seconds before switching over after the generator starts.

The transfer switch is designed to prevent the possible back feeding of power from the genny to the shore line or shore power to the genny -- which could be quite dangerous. Your shore line power cord will go directly to the transfer switch then to the main breaker panel. The switch is in reality a relay that has a coil actuated by power from the generator only. Thus, your shore power is simply feeding into the coach through the switch "as-is".

Maybe this will help you in your search.

The three wires you mentioned coming out from where the old generator once connected should be green, white and black. The green is the ground or grounding wire, the white is the neutral and the black the "hot" wire.

The schematic for your DuroPower generator does not show a bond between neutral and ground. Your Onan did have a bond between neutral and ground. For an application where the generator is physically mounted in the vehicle and the generator frame is physically attached to the vehicle frame bonding can provide first line fault protection by providing a current path that will trip the generator circuit breaker in a hot to ground fault situation. I personally believe an un-bonded generator with a GFCI between the genny and transfer switch is an even safer approach.

To hook your generator to your 3 wires from the coach ATS you should have a L5-30 twist lock male plug that will fit the L5-30 receptacle on the front of your generator.

On your L5-30R 120 volt twist lock outlet the lug with the blue wire will be the designated neutral and will go to the white wire. Black will go to black and green will go to green.

Based on the information you have supplied, this should get you safely powered.

I'm glad to learn that you are abandoning the single supply line fuel feed. FWIW - I have now totally eliminated gasoline (again) as a fuel for my compartmentalized Chinese genny. Even with gravity feed and external venting I was never comfortable with the fuel present in the carburetor in such a confined, heated, ignition prone environment. So, I am back to LPG with no floats or needles that is controlled by a zero pressure vacuum demand regulator and electric solenoid valve.

Maurice,



It will be interesting to find your results of the loop fuel line to supply the gen a near zero pressure feed to the carb. This system has been mentioned for some time but afaik no one has reported a trial run. Also, perhaps the carb in your DuroPower may be of better quality. The thin plactic floats are a concern. Will a real Honda carb work? We hope no reports come in of a fire.