3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
professor95 wrote: EDIT ADDED 45/5/2013- When this thread started in March of 2005, I never expected to see it survive this long or amass the quantity of information that has been shared here. In...
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As promised, here's an alternative way to make a LPG feed block for a GX-200 engine. There are no great advantages, it's just a different way to do it. It occurred to me rummaging through some parts and most importantly, it works!
I happened to have an extra 3/8 male x 1/4 female x 1/4 female brass tee and noticed that a ("I think") 1/4 stop nut with a nylon insert would be a press-fit into the 1/4" female threads.
I coated the threads on one end of the tee with silicon RTV, put the nut "upside down" in the opening, and pressed it in with my vise. The threads gave a satisfying "crunch" and the nut seated evenly. I found a suitable screw, tapered the end, and screwed it into the nut. On the opposite end, I have a 1/4 barb x 1/4 fitting, sleeved with a piece of 1/4" o.d. copper tubing, resulting in a 3/16" orifice. The tapered screw fits neatly into the copper orifice and about 3 1/2 turns backed out is a good intial coarse setting to tune the engine.
I've found that the resultant fitting is a little more precise than the alternative and it usually takes more experimentation to get the engine to start intially. Once you find the "sweet spot", it's easy to adjust after that. The only advantages to this method I see are that it eliminates the jam nut and o-ring, the nylon insert provides its own seal and holds the adjustment well, it's smaller and lighter (esthetics creeping in here! HA!), and it's an easy way to make a block if you don't happen to have a tap handy to chase the threads.
Here's a pic of the completed block:
Here's a pic of the "business end". NOTE: The feed block did NOT work very well with this rather blunt taper as seen in this picture! I tapered the screw some more (almost to a sharp point) and it worked much better.
The ultimate taper I wound up with was about twice as long as the one in the above picture and almost came to a sharp point.
Regards,
John
I happened to have an extra 3/8 male x 1/4 female x 1/4 female brass tee and noticed that a ("I think") 1/4 stop nut with a nylon insert would be a press-fit into the 1/4" female threads.
I coated the threads on one end of the tee with silicon RTV, put the nut "upside down" in the opening, and pressed it in with my vise. The threads gave a satisfying "crunch" and the nut seated evenly. I found a suitable screw, tapered the end, and screwed it into the nut. On the opposite end, I have a 1/4 barb x 1/4 fitting, sleeved with a piece of 1/4" o.d. copper tubing, resulting in a 3/16" orifice. The tapered screw fits neatly into the copper orifice and about 3 1/2 turns backed out is a good intial coarse setting to tune the engine.
I've found that the resultant fitting is a little more precise than the alternative and it usually takes more experimentation to get the engine to start intially. Once you find the "sweet spot", it's easy to adjust after that. The only advantages to this method I see are that it eliminates the jam nut and o-ring, the nylon insert provides its own seal and holds the adjustment well, it's smaller and lighter (esthetics creeping in here! HA!), and it's an easy way to make a block if you don't happen to have a tap handy to chase the threads.
Here's a pic of the completed block:
Here's a pic of the "business end". NOTE: The feed block did NOT work very well with this rather blunt taper as seen in this picture! I tapered the screw some more (almost to a sharp point) and it worked much better.
The ultimate taper I wound up with was about twice as long as the one in the above picture and almost came to a sharp point.
Regards,
John
