3000W Chinese Gensets Info.

jlaustin wrote:

1) My LPG converted carb has a 3/16" orifice for the LPG. I've tried 3/16" i.d. Tygon for the vapor line between regulator and carb and the unit runs fine (this was tested with a fully loaded generator). Any reason not to continue to use this? It's rated a "1" for compatibility with propane.

2) No matter which feed block - your design or mine, with a dead cold engine, the remote starter has to try about 4 times to start the engine. It will fire every attempt, but of course when it fires the remote cuts out the starter and that's it until about the fourth attempt. I'm using the GM trunk release solenoid to activate the primer - as I told you, it "cycles" in that it holds down for about 3 seconds, releases for a couple of seconds, then down again, and so on. Do you think it might do better to go the bypass solenoid valve route and get continuous prime until the engine starts? (I'm waiting for the engine to get cold right now so I can manually hold the primer down continuously and see what happens - I'll report back on that.)

I "think" I've discovered the answer to question 1 & 2 ... don't you just hate it when posters answer their own questions?:R

My opinion/experience is that it DOES matter about the vapor line size - this a.m., I went back to the 3/8" i.d. vapor line and didn't change anything else. The vapor line is slightly less than a foot long. When I changed back to the 3/8", the dead-cold engine started on the second crank attempt by the remote starter! (With the 3/16" line, it was taking 4 or 5 attempts).

It always fired with the smaller line, but it seemed to have difficulty sustaining running. My theory is that the larger i.d. line creates a much larger "reservoir" of LPG from the primer and thus doesn't starve the engine before the regulator can sense the demand and release enough gas to "catch-up".

Can anyone think of a better explanation?

I'm still very much interested in opinions on question 3!

Regards,
John