3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
professor95 wrote: EDIT ADDED 45/5/2013- When this thread started in March of 2005, I never expected to see it survive this long or amass the quantity of information that has been shared here. In...
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My DuroPower 3500ES is almost finished. Thought I'd post a couple of pics to show you how it is turning out:
This pic shows it mounted on the back of my FW. I've got the "Stowaway II" mount that I bolted to my 2" receiver hitch and I also bolted it to the FW's bumper to ensure there would be no swaying or deflection of the mount. The genset is bolted through Lord mounts - rubber "donuts" that are normally used to mount airplane engines. You can also see the hose leading to the quick-disconnect on the FW. What you can't see is wiring coming in to the back of the genset to supply +12v for starting and to run the cooling fan and the digital thermometer. I have a "pigtail" with a RV receptacle that I plug my 30 amp service into - the gennie can start the 15K BTU A/C and fan without any problems whatsoever. Eventually, I'll probably put in a permanent wire feed to the FW through an automatic transfer switch.
This pic gives you a close-up of the genset. I modified the panel somewhat - eliminated the key switch and installed a heavy duty push-button starter switch instead (I want to cover the recessed panel with a piece of plexiglass for weather protection and the key protruded out too far). Next to it is an ON/OFF switch to properly kill the engine by shutting down the onboard fuel solenoid. Since the genset did not originally come with an "RV" receptacle, I installed a 30 amp RV pigtail, put the 20 amp 120v receptacle in the 30 amp's hole, removed the 120v duplex receptacle and put a digital thermometer in that position. The sensor is in the mid-portion of the generator head's cooling exhaust vents about 2 cm away from the fins. I also have adjacent to this location a temp switch to activate the 500 cfm ventilation fan in the top and also activate the thermometer - it comes on at about 140 degrees. Since the fan runs off the FW power, it can continue to cool down the genset after shutdown. The orange box on the right is the remote starter receiver module in a gasketed weatherproof box. The silver "hood" is hinged on the right side. I put 1/4" U channel down the sides of the "hood" to make little gutters to deflect rain run-off. The "hood" is carpet lined and the Hardibacker lid holding the ventilation fan is carpet-lined, too. This forms an exhaust duct for the ventilation fan - the fan is to the right over the muffler and generator head. The airflow (and sound) then has to flow across the duct from right to left, hits a deflector and turns down about 45 degrees and exits. The enclosure panels are the original ones, foam lined. I glued 1/4" Hardibacker to the insides, allowing it to "float". The bottom of the genset is totally open as per the original design. I don't have a decibel meter, but it is definitely quieter than its stock configuration. You can comfortably converse anywhere around the unit without raising your voice. Inside the FW, if stand under the A/C unit, you have to strain to hear the gennie. Vibration is almost non-existent. I purposely mounted it a few inches away from the back of the FW to leave room for a sound-attenuating "doghouse", "hoghouse", GenTent, or whatever!
I still need to fabricate a latch for the "hood" and tidy up the internal wiring. I'm going to run some temp tests to be sure all is OK. I would like to put a heat reflector/insulator on the muffler side of the generator head and perhaps duct the generator head's intake to ensure that the coolest possible air is being aspirated into the generator.
Regards,
John
This pic shows it mounted on the back of my FW. I've got the "Stowaway II" mount that I bolted to my 2" receiver hitch and I also bolted it to the FW's bumper to ensure there would be no swaying or deflection of the mount. The genset is bolted through Lord mounts - rubber "donuts" that are normally used to mount airplane engines. You can also see the hose leading to the quick-disconnect on the FW. What you can't see is wiring coming in to the back of the genset to supply +12v for starting and to run the cooling fan and the digital thermometer. I have a "pigtail" with a RV receptacle that I plug my 30 amp service into - the gennie can start the 15K BTU A/C and fan without any problems whatsoever. Eventually, I'll probably put in a permanent wire feed to the FW through an automatic transfer switch.
This pic gives you a close-up of the genset. I modified the panel somewhat - eliminated the key switch and installed a heavy duty push-button starter switch instead (I want to cover the recessed panel with a piece of plexiglass for weather protection and the key protruded out too far). Next to it is an ON/OFF switch to properly kill the engine by shutting down the onboard fuel solenoid. Since the genset did not originally come with an "RV" receptacle, I installed a 30 amp RV pigtail, put the 20 amp 120v receptacle in the 30 amp's hole, removed the 120v duplex receptacle and put a digital thermometer in that position. The sensor is in the mid-portion of the generator head's cooling exhaust vents about 2 cm away from the fins. I also have adjacent to this location a temp switch to activate the 500 cfm ventilation fan in the top and also activate the thermometer - it comes on at about 140 degrees. Since the fan runs off the FW power, it can continue to cool down the genset after shutdown. The orange box on the right is the remote starter receiver module in a gasketed weatherproof box. The silver "hood" is hinged on the right side. I put 1/4" U channel down the sides of the "hood" to make little gutters to deflect rain run-off. The "hood" is carpet lined and the Hardibacker lid holding the ventilation fan is carpet-lined, too. This forms an exhaust duct for the ventilation fan - the fan is to the right over the muffler and generator head. The airflow (and sound) then has to flow across the duct from right to left, hits a deflector and turns down about 45 degrees and exits. The enclosure panels are the original ones, foam lined. I glued 1/4" Hardibacker to the insides, allowing it to "float". The bottom of the genset is totally open as per the original design. I don't have a decibel meter, but it is definitely quieter than its stock configuration. You can comfortably converse anywhere around the unit without raising your voice. Inside the FW, if stand under the A/C unit, you have to strain to hear the gennie. Vibration is almost non-existent. I purposely mounted it a few inches away from the back of the FW to leave room for a sound-attenuating "doghouse", "hoghouse", GenTent, or whatever!
I still need to fabricate a latch for the "hood" and tidy up the internal wiring. I'm going to run some temp tests to be sure all is OK. I would like to put a heat reflector/insulator on the muffler side of the generator head and perhaps duct the generator head's intake to ensure that the coolest possible air is being aspirated into the generator.
Regards,
John
