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3000W Chinese Gensets Info.

professor95
Explorer
Explorer
professor95 wrote:
EDIT ADDED 45/5/2013- When this thread started in March of 2005, I never expected to see it survive this long or amass the quantity of information that has been shared here.

In the eight year run of this thread we have amassed almost 10,000 postings and surpassed a million views. This creates somewhat of a dilemma for anyone who has just discovered the forum.

Since the amount of information is virtually overwhelming, I suggest you set your preferences for this thread to read "newest first" and then begin to page backwards.

What you will find in these pages is a wealth of info on virtually any make or model of Chinese manufactured synchronous (non-inverter) generator in the 3,000 watt performance class. Info will include how to rewire series coils to parallel to obtain maximum wattage from a single 120 volt outlet. Tips on further reducing sound levels, how to care for these generators, which ones are "RV ready" and provide the best overall performance for the dollar invested. Which companies NOT to deal with, where the best prices are, how to safely wire the generator into a home or RV, how to check your RV for electrical faults, sources for generator accessories, which 20/30 adapters are safe to use and which are not. How to convert a gasoline generator to propane or NG. This is only the beginning. The forum has a life of its own with the focus sub-topic switching frequently. Still, the main topic of utilizing the amazing, inexpensive Chinese gensets is always there. The amount of creativity and innovation presented in these pages is indicative of the talents shared in the diverse backgrounds of the folks who make up our combined RV community.

Many of the original brands and models of Chinese gensets mentioned in the introduction and early pages of the thread have since disappeared. New EPA and CARB emissions requirements, company bonds assuring the emissions warranty will be honored even if the company goes out of business, and fierce competition in the industry have changed the playing field. Champion Power Equipment has become the apparent "trophy team" providing an ever expanding retail outlet, an ample parts supply, a strong warranty and excellent customer service. CPE has continued to improve their product and now offers a new model (#46538) with exclusive convenience, safety and performance features aimed at the RV market. Big names like Cummins/Onan, Honda and Generac all now have Chinese built open frame synchronous gensets available. Ironically, the prices often found on these gensets has not significantly changed during the past eight years - even with the devaluation of the American Dollar and new EPA/CARB requirements.

I also encourage you to use the search function and even the advanced search options to find information. Key works such as "rewiring", "PowerPro", "Champion", "Onan Homesite", "Duropower", "ETQ", "Jiung Dong or JD", "Tractor Supply", "Costco", "Lowe's" and "Home Depot" are all examples of keywords that will give you specific information on different models being sold by retailers today.

Or, you can fill your glass with your favorite beverage (keep more close by - maybe some munchies as well :D, sit back at your computer, tell your wife (or significant other) that you will see her in the morning and spend the next 10 or so hours reading through the postings.

No one on the forum gets mad if you ask a question that is a repeat. Please do not hesitate to post to the forum. All questions are considered important and those active on the forum will do their best to respond with a valid answer.

Also note we are not out to knock the Honda, Yamaha, Kipor or other brands of high end digital gensets. We recognize the quality of these products and their suitability for quite, efficient RV use. But, there is a flood of reliable, inexpensive and comparatively lower cost gensets coming out of China that are excellent alternative choices for the RVer wanting power to run an air conditioner, microwave, etc. without excessive noise or breaking the budget.

Oh, one last thing. The folks on this forum are true gentlemen. We do not flame one another or the product discussed - period. Ugly contributors usually have their comments and remarks ignored by our masses. It is not a forum to start arguments to obtain a clear win. We do disagree on many issues, but we have all agreed to do that in a respectable manner.

We now have the introduction of more and more inverter gensets. There is a rather extensive thread named "The Official Unofficial Champion 2000i Generator" on this forum. Today, I added info on the new Champion 3100i inverter genset. Discussion on this product may get moved to its own thread at a later date.

Many have looked upon this thread with distain saying Chinese is cheap and doomed to failure. I remember saying exactly the same thing about Japanese products a few decades back. But, over the past eight years the track record for Chinese built generators has shown otherwise.

Please, join us in a fascinating journey down the Chinese built genset road of knowledge.

This is the question I posted that got it all started back in March 2005.......

Randy


For a little over a month now, I have been somewhat intrigued by the availability of a 3000 watt, 6.5 HP generator at Pep Boys and Northern Tool for under $300.00. The engine on this generator looks identical to a Honda 6.5 HP OHV engine. Knowing that the Chinese have become very adept at โ€œcloningโ€ reputable technologies from other manufacturers, I was not surprised at the similarities. Neither store could give me any information on the generator nor did they have a โ€œrunningโ€ display model.

I have done a little research. This is what I have discovered:

Many of these generators are imported by ELIM International (www.eliminternational.com) out of Buffalo, New York from Jiung Manufacturing in China. (The unit at Northern is identical but carries the JIUNG name.)

The engines are indeed a Chinese knockoff of the popular 6.5 HP 196cc Honda Engine. โ€œSupposedlyโ€ Honda has licensed the engine technology to the Chinese manufacturer of the product.

The Chinese company that makes the ELM3000 generators is a rather large, diverse, long-standing company with a reputation for โ€œabove average qualityโ€ Chinese made products (Jiung Manufacturing). There are many more Chinese companies making almost identical gensets.

The generators at PepBoys do have a six month limited warranty. But, it is only on the engine (not the generator) and requires paying for shipping to and from Buffalo. Probably not a very practical thing to do if you have warranty issues.

ELIM does supply replacement parts (a PDF parts manual is available on the ELIM web site). No prices are given for replacement parts nor is there an โ€œavailability listingโ€.

The generator head itself is a brushless design. The only really significant wear parts in the generator are the bearings โ€“ most likely universally available.

The published dB rating is 67 at 23 feet. This is โ€œreasonablyโ€ quite for a generator of this size as most comparabl.... The 67 dB rating is the same as Honda gives their 3000 watt CycloInverter with a โ€œlook alikeโ€ eng...






















Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.
10,029 REPLIES 10,029

professor95
Explorer
Explorer
When the GenTent did a really good job of knocking down the noise from the 46538 without overheating I decided to see what it would do for an already "quiet" 2,000 watt inverter generator.

I don't have a Honda or Yamaha. Not even one of the new CPE inverters. But I do have a really close relative to the Honda in a Kipor KGE2000Ti.



I have run the Kipor side-by-side with a friend's Honda 2000 and we agreed that they were about the same noise level and power output.

Anyway, to start the test I laid out the requisite 7 meter distance and put my db meter on a tripod about 4 feet high.

The first thing I did was measure ambient noise. Boy, was it a quiet day! No wind or anything. The meter showed LO which is under 50 dbA.



The next step was to start the Kipor and let it run in Economy Mode to see what the sound reading was.



53 dbA is pretty quiet - but you can tell there is a generator running over there.

I plugged the camper into the Kipor and turned on the 6,000 BTU bedroom A/C along with the converter and fridge. The speed jumped on the Kipor as did the noise level.



60 dbA even at full throttle is not too bad as far as generator noise goes - certainly a lot lower than a open frame unit like the CPE 46538.

Now, it's time to repeat the test with the GenTent over the Kipor.



There is an open end facing away from the meter and the camper and about 3" around the bottom for cooling. Still on the closed side with the Kipor running in Economy mode the dbA reading was below 50 db. You could not even tell the Kipor was running!



Once again I plug the camper into the Kipor. The Kipor shifts into high speed mode as it is loaded to a little over 1,200 watts.

Now we are up to 56 dbA with the GenTent over the Kipor running at 5,000 RPM and a heavy load. The reading is 56 dbA.




Let's see now..... Kipor in ECO mode with no GenTent = 53dbA, With a GenTent it is below 50 dba.

Kipor in high speed mode with no GenTent is 60 dbA, with the GenTent we drop to 56 dbA. A 4 db reduction is significant. But, why wasn't the sound drop equal to the bigger generator in my previous tests?

Well, much of the noise you hear from an open frame synchronous generator like the CPE 46538 is mechanical banging, bumping and vibrating. The cases on the inverters are designed to considerably muffle that particular frequency range. So, even though it may sound sort of fuzzy, there really is not as broad of a sound frequency range to block with an inverter. As with any "reduction" device, there is a point of diminishing returns.

I actually use the Kipor more on my boondocking trips to the mountains than the big Champion 40008 permanently located in the front of my 5th wheel. I rarely need the 15,000 BTU A/C in the mountains so the Kipor provides more than enough power. But, in the NPS Campgrounds on the Skyline Drive lowering even the sound level of a mid-size inverter that mimics an angry swarm of bees when under load will be a plus. I was very pleased with the results.
Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.

professor95
Explorer
Explorer
jlaustin wrote:
......... or, in your opinion, would the height of my genset above the ground probably reduce the effectiveness of the GenTent?

I guess the other way to put it - does raising any enclosure more than a few inches above the ground reduce the effectiveness of the enclosure?


The ground, especially soft dirt, sand, grass and even gravel offer excellent sound absorption and reduction characteristics. Harder surfaces like concrete and asphalt don't work as well. There is a dividing line with a generator cover that allows for cooler air at the bottom to be pulled into the opening and sound to not escape. I am of the opinion that the line is right at 3" for optimum results. Think about the difference in sound of mower blades spinning when you move from the lawn to the driveway. On my 50", 3-blade ZTR mower it goes from a whirr to a roar. So, just putting a cover over your elevated generator would help, but not as much as it would if it were sitting on soft ground.
Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.

professor95
Explorer
Explorer
bill h wrote:

Have you seen any STC or NRC figures on it? My cheapie Soundstop board is not very durable, so this might be a good substitute. I like their idea of slipping it into a double wall tent. Maybe I will sew up a hoghouse and slip the Soundstop in it. A waterproof material would save the absorbent Soundstop from the rain.


Nope, I have not seen any STC or NRC figures. This is all I have seen concerning technical info. The figures there are kind of "fuzzy".

Azdel sponsored the transportation at THE RALLY in Louisville and each participant received a small 2" circular piece in their Rally Bag along with a brief flier. That is the first time I had even heard of the stuff. But, I think it is great and expect it to expand quickly for use in the RV industry and who knows where else?

It's made in Lynchburg, VA, which is only about 110 miles from me. In fact, I used to live in Lynchburg. So, if I ever decide I want a few sheets I will just drive there and visit a few old friends along the way. But, until it starts appearing in Lowe's or HD stores I imagine it will be difficult to come by without paying a lot in freight. BTW, I do not know the cost of a 4x8 sheet either.

SuperGen Products is registered as a business in Las Vegas and that is where I think their warehouse and manufacturing facility is located. Apparently they ordered a sizable pack of the stuff to be able to afford shipping out there.
Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.

jlaustin
Explorer
Explorer
professor95 wrote:


John,

I do not believe the GenTent would fit over your enclosure. If the company decides to build a larger tent for something like the 6,500 watt models there is a possibility.



I mean't placing it over just the genset, not the homemade enclosure I made. Guess I shouldn't have used the term "further" reduction - I mean't would I get a greater reduction with the GenTent vs my enclosure, or, in your opinion, would the height of my genset above the ground probably reduce the effectiveness of the GenTent?

I guess the other way to put it - does raising any enclosure more than a few inches above the ground reduce the effectiveness of the enclosure?
John & Linda
2005 Pilgrim 274RL-5SS
2008 F-250
Amelia - the Welsh Terrier. Daisy, Bonny, & Rosie - the cats!

bill_h
Explorer
Explorer
professor95 wrote:
in some testing I did a couple of years back with my folded poly board a sound absorbing barrier like a cedar tree or even a "<" shape with the greater end a couple of feet away from the open end does help to knock sound down from that direction as well.


Yep. Anything that makes the sound turn a corner helps. An absorbent material there helps more yet.

I do think one of the things that is making the GenTent work so well is the AZDEL used in the panels. It is advertised as a sound and energy absorbing material which, apparently, it is.


Have you seen any STC or NRC figures on it? My cheapie Soundstop board is not very durable, so this might be a good substitute. I like their idea of slipping it into a double wall tent. Maybe I will sew up a hoghouse and slip the Soundstop in it. A waterproof material would save the absorbent Soundstop from the rain.
NOTE: Any incorrect spelling is intentional to prevent those annoying popups.

84 Barth 30Tag powered by HT502/Thorley/Weiand etc, Gear Vendors OD.
Siamese Calvin and Airedale Hobbes, 4WD Toyota toad

professor95
Explorer
Explorer
jlaustin wrote:


Do you think I might get further dB reduction with the GenTent? I'm wondering if because my genset is much higher off the ground, that accounts for less dB reduction? I'd rather not have to dismount the genset just to lower it to the ground. If I didn't get significant further reductions, how about making heavy "curtains" to extend from the bottom of the GenTent to within a few inches of the ground?


John,

I do not believe the GenTent would fit over your enclosure. If the company decides to build a larger tent for something like the 6,500 watt models there is a possibility.

Studying on this thing I honestly think that while the double thickness of canvas tenting material does a fair job of sound reduction it is the AZDEL fiberglass composite sandwiched in the middle that is adding to the reduction. On my end, I am curious to see what effect taking the ADZEL panels out may be.

Unfortunately, I have no idea where or how to buy a sheet of ADZEL - or even what it would cost if I wanted to try and use it as an additional sound reduction material on a homebrew enclosure.

I don't want anyone to get the impression that I think this thing is the answer to all of our noise reduction concerns. It did do a great job in my tests and the generator managed to stay withing operating range for temperatures. But, as Bill noted it does have a noisy end and as I noted it is not for use on HOT, HOT days with the genny running full bore. It is a neat, well made accessory but it does have its time and place.
Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.

professor95
Explorer
Explorer
bill h wrote:

So, it appears that it is quieter for you but about the same for whoever the open end is aimed at.


Yep. Not good for the guys facing the open end in a crowded park or near a reflective canyon. But, hey - 3 out of 4 ain't too bad ๐Ÿ™‚

Seriously though, in some testing I did a couple of years back with my folded poly board a sound absorbing barrier like a cedar tree or even a "<" shape with the greater end a couple of feet away from the open end does help to knock sound down from that direction as well.

I do think one of the things that is making the GenTent work so well is the AZDEL used in the panels. It is advertised as a sound and energy absorbing material which, apparently, it is.
Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.

jlaustin
Explorer
Explorer
The GenTent certainly looks well-built and I like the flexibility of having the option to open different panels!

My genset is receiver-hitch mounted and about 18-20" above the ground. In a very comparable test scenario as compared to the Professor's most recent test, my much-modified genset was getting about 65-66 db loaded with a 15K BTU A/C and I saw about 3-4 dB reductions with my homemade "Sound Shroud".

Do you think I might get further dB reduction with the GenTent? I'm wondering if because my genset is much higher off the ground, that accounts for less dB reduction? I'd rather not have to dismount the genset just to lower it to the ground. If I didn't get significant further reductions, how about making heavy "curtains" to extend from the bottom of the GenTent to within a few inches of the ground?
John & Linda
2005 Pilgrim 274RL-5SS
2008 F-250
Amelia - the Welsh Terrier. Daisy, Bonny, & Rosie - the cats!

5akman
Explorer
Explorer
That is an amazing reduction for something so simple and so inexpensive. I contacted the company this last week and they said they'd be ready to take orders by this weekend. Sure enough, its available via their website with PayPal payment. And to think that I was just getting ready to buy cement board, stall mats and foil faced bubble wrap to build an enclosure that most likely would have cost more and done less!
2001 25' Keystone Sprinter 5th wheel, 2001 CTD, QCSB, 2wd with factory camper/tow package. 47re with triple disc/vb mods/electrical/servos/etc, 100hp inj, Quad ADR, Hx 35/40, lift pump, 3.55 gears, PacBrake

bill_h
Explorer
Explorer
professor95 wrote:
No measurements were made on the back side or the opposite end. I do not expect a drop in sound from the open or muffler end so it should be positioned away from your awning or any close neighbors.



So, it appears that it is quieter for you but about the same for whoever the open end is aimed at.
NOTE: Any incorrect spelling is intentional to prevent those annoying popups.

84 Barth 30Tag powered by HT502/Thorley/Weiand etc, Gear Vendors OD.
Siamese Calvin and Airedale Hobbes, 4WD Toyota toad

professor95
Explorer
Explorer
When I was in Louisville at The Rally the end of July, I got to meet the guys starting up a company to provide accessories to the small generator market. One of the items they had on display was a tent-like cover for anything from a full size 3,000 watt Chinese generator on down. Their prototype โ€œlooked interestingโ€ but I did not have any other details to form an opinion as to how well it would actually work.

Last week one of the guys at SuperGen Products gave me a call and asked if it would be OK to send me one of their GenTents. I told him that would be fine, but if I found any problems with the product I would report them just like the good data. He said he understood and was not asking for anything in return.

The white box arrived Thursday via FED-X. I opened Friday morning to see just what was inside.

The tent construction and workmanship is impressive. It is made of a heavy canvas-like material that has pockets for inserting rigid panels. The pockets close with Velcro. Unlike the prototype I saw in Louisville, the panels are now Adzel rather than Masonite. This means that the tent is completely weather proof and can be used as a cover even in the rain and snow. There are two end flaps that are for the muffler end that can be opened for running the generator or closed for weather protection. There is another Velcro panel on the top for access to the fuel tank or to open for extra air circulation to aid cooling.

The frame snaps together quickly and is neatly packed in a separate blue nylon bag. The entire unit folds flat for easy storage in a RV or truck.

OK, it is well made, but does it work to reduce sound from a Generator without overheating?

I set my โ€œtestโ€ area up so that it was as close to what I would have with a generator connected to my RV in an actual camping space. The generator was several feet behind the camper. I measured out the requisite 7 meters toward the front of the camper and set up my sound level meter on a tripod about 4 feet off the ground.

I started the generator without the GenTent, let it warm up and turned on the 15,000 BTU air conditioner in the camper to load the generator. I measured a consistent 69 db with the meter set to the A weighting and fast response scales. Keep in mind that this reading is with the generator really loaded โ€“ not running in a no-load condition. Again, the 69 dbA reading was WITHOUT the GenTent.

I shut everything down and put the assembled GenTent over the generator. The back side of the tent where the muffler exits was open. The top flap was closed. There is about 3โ€ of open space around the bottom.

I started the generator via the remote and once again turned on the 15,000 BTU air conditioner. With the generator loaded the meter showed a reading that varied between 61 and 62 dbA. That is an amazing 7 dbA reduction in sound on the front side of the tent. No measurements were made on the back side or the opposite end. I do not expect a drop in sound from the open or muffler end so it should be positioned away from your awning or any close neighbors.

The outside temperature was 86 degrees. I let the generator run for a full hour and 15 minutes. The generator was warm when I shut it down, but it did not overheat. I made some actual temperature measurements with an infrared non-contact thermometer. You can see what those numbers are in the photos below.

Over all I was impressed with the tent. It is extremely well made and should last a long time. It does significantly knock down the sound from the shielded sides.

One thing I would like to stress to anyone using this product with their air cooled 3,000 watt class Chinese generator โ€“ This is not an item to be used in 100 degree heat with a fully loaded generator. Air cooled generators need all the free air flow they can get under such conditions. My experience tells me a sound reduction enclosure such as the GenTent should only be used in โ€œmoderateโ€ conditions under 90 degrees and at โ€œmoderateโ€ loads not to exceed 2,400 watts. Occasionally checking the generator's temperature with a non-contact infrared thermometer would be a good idea. As you can see, they are no longer expensive items to own and have many other uses in and around a camper.

I intend to take and use the GenTent on all future boondocking trips where I am using either the 3,500 watt synchronous or the 2,000 watt inverter generator. I believe it will prove to be beneficial to even the Honda and Yamaha inverter crowd as it can help to further reduce annoying engine noise no matter what the make, model or current dbA rating may be.


The GenTent package before assembly.


Azdel fiberglass panel insert


Assembled GenTent


Generator Inside - End and top flaps open


Set-up for test site.


db meter is a measured 7 meters from generator.


db Meter Reading WITHOUT GenTent - generator loaded.


Meter reading with GenTent over generator - full generator load.


Generator tank temperature at start of test (2:50 p.m.).


Generator tank temperature at end of test (3:58 p.m.)


Generator end cap temperature at end of test. Well within acceptable protection limits for the AVR.
Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.

professor95
Explorer
Explorer
At this point in time, Champion is the only 3,000 watt class Chinese built generator available in American markets with the 30 Amp RV TT outlet.

Others may offer the 30 amp twist lock outlet but it requires an adapter to connect to the RV power cord adding to the overall cost.

I'm not advertising for CPE nor am I saying that these other Chinese generators should not be considered. Just think about what you may be really spending on a non-RV ready model.

While the current crop of Chinese 3,000 watt class generators continue to use the 196 cc GX200 class engine - which is pretty much the same across the board as far as durability and performance - there can be a HUGE difference in the way the alternator is built. The gauge of the wire used to wind the coils, the type of insulation used and it's ability to withstand high temperatures, the rear carrier bearing and AVR. I have seen quite a few of the designs and materials used by many of the "low end" models and was disappointed in several brands.
Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.

gasser9
Explorer
Explorer
Product 1/49
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KingCraft 3250-Watt
6.5-HP Portable Generator

$ 199.99 each

Even Aldi foods is getting them

bill_h
Explorer
Explorer
professor95 wrote:
It does not look particularly quiet. In fact, 70 db is most likely a long stretch if it is truly as small as it looks - sort of like the mufflers used on the water pumps, pressure washers, etc.



Believe only what your meter and tape measure tell you.

And, of course, the muffler only tells part of the story. There is a lot of mechanical clatter in an air cooled engine. My own Honda rattletrap is still loud with a ball of rags held over the muffler outlet.
NOTE: Any incorrect spelling is intentional to prevent those annoying popups.

84 Barth 30Tag powered by HT502/Thorley/Weiand etc, Gear Vendors OD.
Siamese Calvin and Airedale Hobbes, 4WD Toyota toad

professor95
Explorer
Explorer
Skibane wrote:
professor95 wrote:

That is a strange looking muffler. I see 8 holes facing back and what appears to be a removable end plate.


I believe that's a heat shield bolted to a small cylindrical muffler.

Doesn't look particularly quiet...


Oh, I'm sure it is part of the heat shield - especially since it is plated. That is just all I could see ๐Ÿ™‚

..... and, no. It does not look particularly quiet. In fact, 70 db is most likely a long stretch if it is truly as small as it looks - sort of like the mufflers used on the water pumps, pressure washers, etc.

If you look at the zoom and cropped photo you can see the head pipe enter a small round vertical cylindrical metal muffler with a curved tail pipe at the bottom coming out the back.

I am still suspicious about a EPA/CARB product having some type of air injection or catalyst we cannot see.

Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.