3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
professor95 wrote: EDIT ADDED 45/5/2013- When this thread started in March of 2005, I never expected to see it survive this long or amass the quantity of information that has been shared here. In...
Forum Discussion
Dan86300zxt wrote:
Proffessor... I have a question on my 120 volt wiring.
*I am in the process of wiring up the 2k generator that I have custom fitted to my generator compartment.
-I am thinking ahead just a little and I have a couple things I am unsure of, and my instincts are telling me to do this, (which I'll explain in a second), but I want to get your opinion on it.
**In my scenario....there are 3 options/methods for 120v power to be sent to the MH breaker box.
-30amp Shore power RV plug.
-Six GC2 batteries wired in and connected to a 2000watt SineWave Inverter.
-2k Generator.
***I have an outlet that the MH came with that matches the 30amp Shore Power Plug.
-I am thinking about wiring both the Generator and the SineWave inverter to the Outlet, but utilizing a heavy duty on/off switch in a seperate box for each(generator and SineWave inverter) before the RV outlet.
-This allows me to manually isolate each source.
****Am I over doing it? Is there a need for this? What could happen if say for instance, Shore Power Plug was powered up and 120v was applied to the SineWave Inverter and the Generator when they were Off????
(...as long as the power switch for the inverter was off and not operating, same for the generator...engine not running, would everything be fine?)
No, you are not over doing it at all.
99.9% of all inverters are factory made with the inverter's identified neutral bonded to the grounding side of the output circuit. This is a situation that I have always advocated as being less than safe in an RV. Once the inverter is switched into the circuit, the neutral bus and ground buss are interconnected without the benefit of an earth ground as provided by shore power. Therefore, I encourage folks to mount their inverter on a piece of plywood or other material so that the case is NOT physically connected to the RV frame. The next step is to supply power to the RV through a two prong plug (no grounding) and a GFCI interface in-line.
On the switch, common specification grade 3-way light switches like you get at Home Depot are actually single pole double throw switches. If you put TWO of these in a 2 gang utility box and tie the handles together with a long 4-40 nut and bolt (holes drilled thru the switch handles) so they both move in tandem you have a great manual either-or transfer switch for the inverter and generator to interface with the RV's 30 amp power cord. I run such a system with the added feature of an automatic switch. It has proved to be extremely reliable.
Good luck on your project. If you need any help I (and I am sure others) will be glad to offer arm-chair advice.
GFCI interface for use betwen inverter and RV
Photo showing ganged 3-way light switches used as 4 DPDT selector for generator/inverter. Automatic switching is done with an electric door lock solenoid connected to a remote push button.
