Anybody using Micro Inverters on their solar?

[mchero]

Getting ready to install solar on the top of the Discovery. Doing lots of boondocking so I need the solar. Wow, prices droping like a rock! Supplier out here now offering (for 3 days) Suntech 275 watt high voltage panels for .69/watt.

Problem is, I'd have to purchase $600 midnight solar charge controller, a combiner box for the top of the rig and so on....

Just started reading up on Microinvertes and I'm now wondering if I should go the Micro Inverter route. What I really like is the idea of just plugging more panels in as I need them. Don't have to keep installing the exact same panels.

From what I understand the array with the microinvertes all plug into ONE cable thus elimating the combiner box (250.00) and the Midnight Solar Charge Controller ($600).

I'll stop here. Want to hear thoughts of others. The web site I'm looking at is located in MA. I can order the panels & then pick them up getting past the EXPENSIVE shipping charges.

[time2roll]

Naio wrote:
Do those branched cables provide series, or parallel connection? Or can they be hooked up either way?

Sometimes I am not sure if my question is a dumb one...

MC4 branch connectors to connect in parallel

For series the panels with MC4 placed adjacent can just connect to each other. Or use an MC4 extension if the distance is too great. Use a long extension cut in half to run to the controller. MC4 to the panels, cut stripped ends to the controller.

MC4 extension cable. They can make any custom length you choose.

[Naio]

SkiSmuggs wrote:
I bypassed the combiner box by using Y cables or MC4 branch connectors. I used a dual connector for two panels and when I add two more panels, I will replace it with a quad Y cable. However, I am using smaller panels and PWM.

Do those branched cables provide series, or parallel connection? Or can they be hooked up either way?

Sometimes I am not sure if my question is a dumb one...

[mchero]

jrnymn7 wrote:
3"x3"x2" sealed junction box, water resistant box connectors, a few 5/16" nuts and bolts, a little silicone, and yer good to go... put the $220+ you save into heavier cabling and whatever else the remaining $200 will buy you.

Will work with both series and parallel wiring, using 3 studs:

in series, (using all 3 studs), one panel's pos and the other panel's neg to a common stud. the remaining panels' pos and neg each to a stud that also have pos and neg to controller.

in parallel, (using 2 of the studs) both panels' pos to pos stud to controller, and both panels' neg to neg stud to controller.

Still in the design stage jrnymn7, thus the reason for the questions.
Might be going series and elimate the $200+ combiner box. Good ideas, thanks.

[mchero]

opnspaces wrote:
As others have stated Micro inverters will not work. Micro inverters have to be hooked to the utility grid. When the grid goes down the the inverters shut down to protect the linemen working on restoring power.

In fact I was just talking to the local building inspector last week for solar that I'm installing on my house. In San Diego you have to put warning stickers on the conduit coming down from the panels that warns that they are carrying solar power. I assume this is to protect the electrician that flips the main breaker and assumes that all lines are dead in the house when in fact the solar is back feeding power through the breaker panel. The inspector said I do not need the warning stickers if using micro inverters because when the main cuts the power the inverters all shut off too.

Opnspaces
Read the thread from the beginning. You will see that I was QUICKLY corrected! LOL

Thanks for the information.

[SkiSmuggs]

I bypassed the combiner box by using Y cables or MC4 branch connectors. I used a dual connector for two panels and when I add two more panels, I will replace it with a quad Y cable. However, I am using smaller panels and PWM.

[opnspaces]

As others have stated Micro inverters will not work. Micro inverters have to be hooked to the utility grid. When the grid goes down the the inverters shut down to protect the linemen working on restoring power.

In fact I was just talking to the local building inspector last week for solar that I'm installing on my house. In San Diego you have to put warning stickers on the conduit coming down from the panels that warns that they are carrying solar power. I assume this is to protect the electrician that flips the main breaker and assumes that all lines are dead in the house when in fact the solar is back feeding power through the breaker panel. The inspector said I do not need the warning stickers if using micro inverters because when the main cuts the power the inverters all shut off too.

[jrnymn7]

3"x3"x2" sealed junction box, water resistant box connectors, a few 5/16" nuts and bolts, a little silicone, and yer good to go... put the $220+ you save into heavier cabling and whatever else the remaining $200 will buy you.

Will work with both series and parallel wiring, using 3 studs:

in series, (using all 3 studs), one panel's pos and the other panel's neg to a common stud. the remaining panels' pos and neg each to a stud that also have pos and neg to controller.

in parallel, (using 2 of the studs) both panels' pos to pos stud to controller, and both panels' neg to neg stud to controller.

[time2roll]

Series = no combiner box. Just some MC4 extension cables and it is plug and play :B

[jrnymn7]

$200 for a combiner box???? I'm making one for about $20.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

Not always 120 volt microcogen.

It definitely could be done with a hybrid inverter. Feed the inverter from the solar panels.

Just because it could be done does not mean I would recommend it.

If I were going to tilt, I would want electric actuators so that in the event of a storm the panels could be stowed.

2oldman wrote:
Yeah!

After perusing some sites, I find that these units are 208v and higher.

Your Kyocera link is not a url.

[2oldman]

mchero wrote:
What are others using for tiltable mounting?

Standard tilt bars.

[MrWizard]

i don't tilt, but i've seen some nice ones from other members

i did not buy a combiner box either

i brought the wires to the fridge vent, where i used "kernies" aka split Bolts
and put the wires together and wrapped the connections in self fusing 3M silicone rubber tape, fuses into a solid block of rubber, use a sharp knife to remove it, when if needed

[mchero]

My original plan was going parallel, thus the $200 combiner box on the right rear of the roof.
http://www.altestore.com/store/Enclosures-Electrical-Safety/Electrical-Enclosures/Combiner-Pass-Thro...

I could have a short 3/4 elbow so it would go out the rear of the combiner box & elbow down thru the rear cap. Would make for a real clean setup, hell should for $260.00!

What are others using for tiltable mounting?

[Naio]

2oldman wrote:
On a general note, it just doesn't seem judicious to design a solar system with shade in mind. Sorta like designing your battery system for when one fails.

I would think it's good to consider imperfection when designing both systems!

We cannot always choose our camping spots. And when we can, as MrWizard says, sometimes we choose at least partial shade :).