Atwood Water Heater Slowly Dies on gas.

The water heater is fixed and you'll never guess what was causing the trouble.

during my troubleshooting process I replaced the copper tuning gas supply line since the existing line had a small kink. That didn't fix the problem. The heater was getting gas, plenty of it, the burner and tube assembly where clean. So logic dictated that there was something not right with the gas valve assembly.

So I did what any mechanically inclined cheap butthead would do... I serviced the non-serviceable valve. The valve is in great shape, diaphragm is perfect, seats are clean and no indication of wear, springs are good.... When inspecting the vent cap for the regulator, I found it was not properly machined leaving no flow path to equalize the atmospheric side of the regulator. Simple fix with a drill bit.

I now have a fully functioning water heater.

Chris Bryant wrote:
It almost has to be external to the unit- I would trace and inspect the copper line back to the manifold, and probable disconnect to check for oil in the line.

The only gads valve fault I can come up with would be the regulator built in to the valve going bad. Not something I have ever seen or heard of, but there's always a first time.

I guess that will be my next step. I know there is a kink in the copper tubing but heater fired fine our fist trip. I may replace the supply tubing all together to eliminate it as a potential issue.

It almost has to be external to the unit- I would trace and inspect the copper line back to the manifold, and probable disconnect to check for oil in the line.

The only gads valve fault I can come up with would be the regulator built in to the valve going bad. Not something I have ever seen or heard of, but there's always a first time.

DavidP wrote:
Have you tried to run the stove with all burners lit for same amount of time? I would do this just to make sure the regulator is not restricting pressure at some point.

I have operated all gas appliances on gas at the same time for several minutes to verify its not an issue with the regulator.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Main flame generates a milivot signal (flame ionization) that 'proves' main flame.
Signal goes back to circuit board via spark electrode/high tension wire.

I would be checking for 'trace'....cracks in ceramic allowing signal to go to ground.

Also check the resistance on solenoids.......roughly 40 ohms

The controller works fine. This issues is not related to the controller.

What you have is either
1. You have a rubber LP line that feeds the W/H is pinched somewhere. If the W/H was in a slide, that would be the most likely cause
2. IF the other LP appliances operate OK, then the line feeding off the main LP line is partially blocked between that T and the W/H.
Last, you are correct, this is NOT a Bad LP solenoid. Doug

Have you tried to run the stove with all burners lit for same amount of time? I would do this just to make sure the regulator is not restricting pressure at some point.

Main flame generates a milivot signal (flame ionization) that 'proves' main flame.
Signal goes back to circuit board via spark electrode/high tension wire.

I would be checking for 'trace'....cracks in ceramic allowing signal to go to ground.

Also check the resistance on solenoids.......roughly 40 ohms