Camper - tow car mismatch

Is a fuse blowing?

If it’s blowing a fuse but working for a while I’m betting there’s a pinched wire. That happened on my boat trailer. The previous owner had put a new license plate lamp and when he tightened it the wire was pinched and eventually overheated (took about 30 minutes) and blew the fuse. It took me about 8 hours to track it down.

The plug on the trailer needs to be checked out as well as the other end of the trailer plug cable.

This is my camper. The problem is that when I connect to the camper after a period of time (while it has been plugged into shore power to keep the battery charged) the output from the brake light converter module gets blown out. All other voltages remain operable. (Turn, running lights).

Example One: On our first trip to the keys, everything worked fine. Spent a week on Big Pine Key with the Jeep disconnected and when we hooked up the Jeep to leave, no brake lights on the camper. (Jeep brake lights still work)

Example Two: I come back from a camping trip and everything works fine. Put the camper in the garage. (Hooked to shore power) The camper brake lights were working at this time. The following weekend, I take my kayaks and their trailer out. Brake lights work fine. The following Friday, hook up the camper to head out and the camper has no brake lights again. Connect back to my kayak trailer, no brake lights there now either.

Lazy Days RV did all of the wiring including the seven pin electric brake control
Module. They’ve also put in FOUR brake light converter modules now and the one currently in my Jeep is also blown. They keep saying the problem is with the modules.

RV was purchased on October 13, 2018 and has been in to Lazy Days FIVE TIMES for repair. Again, they’re saying it’s the converter module.

In between camping trips, my kayak trailer brakes work fine until I hook my camper back up.

The FIRST thing I would do is, Connect a 10 amp fuse to the RED brake light wire at the trailer junction box where the 7 wire Trailer cord connects to the trailer tow wiring. For a Module to blow, there must be either an overload or a short, IN THE TRAILER, since your Kayak trailer does not have the problem. The short is obviously caused by the movement of the trailer. The shorted wire shorts when the trailer moves and twists. Installing that 10 amp fuse will cause the fuse to blow instead of the Module. IF you find the fuse blown, your modeule is protected and you KNOW where to start troubleshooting on the trailer. IF you have LED rear lights on the trailer use a 5 amp Fuse. Doug

Totally reasonable assumption but let me add in another detail. The camper lights work fine all the way into the garage. They always work all the way to each destination. If it were camper movement, I would suspect the converter module output to blow in transit. When I disconnect the camper, the lights ARE working. It’s only when I go to hook up again that the lights are no longer working.

The Jeep is turned off while connections are made and broken.
Camper is disconnected from shore power while connecting to the Jeep.

Scotty71 wrote:
Totally reasonable assumption but let me add in another detail. The camper lights work fine all the way into the garage. They always work all the way to each destination. If it were camper movement, I would suspect the converter module output to blow in transit. When I disconnect the camper, the lights ARE working. It’s only when I go to hook up again that the lights are no longer working.

The Jeep is turned off while connections are made and broken.
Camper is disconnected from shore power while connecting to the Jeep.

i agree with doug, i would install fuse till the issue is resolved.

if its as easy as you say to reproduce the issue, why isn't lazy able to blow the module themselves? based on your comment simply unplugging and replugging it in will cause it to blow correct?

Scotty71 wrote:
Totally reasonable assumption but let me add in another detail. The camper lights work fine all the way into the garage. They always work all the way to each destination. If it were camper movement, I would suspect the converter module output to blow in transit. When I disconnect the camper, the lights ARE working. It’s only when I go to hook up again that the lights are no longer working.

The Jeep is turned off while connections are made and broken.
Camper is disconnected from shore power while connecting to the Jeep.

1. Shore Power will have NOTHING to do with your problem
2. Its OK to question my logic, BUT DO WHAT I SUGGEST ANYWAY! Until you take steps to isolate the problem, you will continue to have a problem
3. Another long shot. The Left Turn wire and the BRAKE(trailer brakes, not the light) are on each side of the GROUND pin. IF that trailer end plug(not your plug on the Car/Truck), is defective--- the wires are not secured correctly or you have a few copper wire strands that can touch the ground pin, that would cause a short. IF your trailer end is NOT molded, but has the small screws to take it apart, I would disassemble it and see if all the wires are secure with no strands sticking out.
4. One last thing. About your module that keeps blowing. On some Trucks/Autos, when you add a 4 to 7 pin connection module, they make POWERED and NON-POWERED modules. The POWERED(12 volt) is the way to go. What this does is BOOST the 12 volt signal to prevent power loss to the towed trailer. I had this on my old Jeep Grand Cherokee and My current Sante Fe. Doug


Give Year of your liberty.

You state you have 4 or 5 converter modules. Does your Liberty have RED Brake lights and AMBER Turn signals? If so, that is why you have to have a Converter. To combine the RED and AMBER to Left Turn and Right Turn on the RV. The link below is the ONLY converter(1 piece) you need. If the converter is NOT powered, that could also be the problem


https://www.etrailer.com/p-HM48915.html?hhyear=2012&hhmake=Jeep&hhmodel=Liberty

The converter is powered.

What year Liberty?
Also, modules burning up----usually that also indicates the supply fuse is too BIG for the circuit. The fuse should blow before the appliance fails.
You can put the fuse at the output of the module, instead of at the Trailer as I suggested earlier.

If you use the same brand/model converter every time, then CHANGE the brand Model converter. Doug