Check light on Dometic RM2852 fridge

I have upgraded all the flourescent lights to LED so that is not going to be the issue.

I will verify next weekend if the light comes on when running on 120V again. It did it as soon as I switched to electric within about 5 min but then did not do it again for the rest of the weekend.

Thanks for the information on checking the vent and back side of the fridge. I will take that apart and clean it all next time I am up there.

Only two more weeks of camping until the park closes so hopefully I can get it before the end of the season.

Chris Bryant wrote:
Could also be a failing fluorescent light, the capacitors go out and even though the fixture works, it spits out a ton of rf interference.

True, but it seems the newer Dometic/Dino boards filter out the RF. His is 13 years old. I only see this type problem on older Modules. Doug

Could also be a failing fluorescent light, the capacitors go out and even though the fixture works, it spits out a ton of rf interference.

Sounds like the control board.
I would go with the Dinosaur Electronics version.

Dinosaur

Check Light is ONLY a LP flame problem indicator. Nothing to do with the 120 side. So, if you are positive that when on AUTO(120) the refer never lost 120 power and automatically tried to light on LP, you still get the check light, then the rear main control board is bad. Dino or Dometic boards. BOTH have the same reliability. Go for the cheaper option. Doug

Could be a control board on it's way out, but do check the obvious first.
Check for blockages out the back up through the vent to be sure there's no bird nest or something in there. Check the cooling tubes at the back for debris, make sure everything is clean.
Also check your 12V connections in the back to be sure nothing is loose or corroded. Even on 110V the fridge requires the 12V system to run.
If all looks well, chances are your board could be failing.
If you have to put a board in it, get the Dinosaur brand. They are the best.