Background: New 21' Fiberglass FW, all power related equip under the rear dinette seat. 2-6V Interstate GC batteries 232A 160w 12v flat mount solar, will add another 100-160w this spring/summer Wfco 8955 converter/charger Bogarts Trimetric 2030 battery monitor and SC-2030 Solar Charger Controller No on board genny, have a Honda 2k I do my own mods.Looking to add a decent inverter to power an electric blanket or heat pad, and charge the laptop and camera. I currently use a cheap, noisy, 400w portable for the laptop and camera.From reading this forum, I see my WFCO 8955 is not the greatest thing for my 2 6V interstate batteries, started looking into replacing it.The existing circuit to the bedroom receptacles for the heating pad is the same one used for the microwave. That being the case I'll add the MW to what should be powered from the inverter. I checked it with a Killawatt and I get 1100w draw (700w unit) so I'll go for a 1500-2k inverter.I like the Iota DLS-55 for a charger and the Xantrex Prowatt SW 2k inverter. XantrexDLS-55Looked at the combo units but for PSW they are out of my budget at $1k plus, hence my first question. 1. How can I tell if I need a PSW or MSW? If I went MSW I could get an all in one unit.Hooking up an inverter: The Xantrex has an optional remote, which I would get, and an Inline Transfer Relay. I was thinking of using the output of the breaker to feed Input #2 and hooking the existing Romex to the output of the relay but this leaves no breaker for the output when running off the inverter. 2: Am I looking at this right or is there a better way? I'm open to all affordable suggestions. There's more but I'll stop here for now.

I installed a Xantrex ProSeries 1800, which is a modified sine wave inverter with a built in transfer switch. We have a similar setup - 200 watts of solar, 2 12V batteries. So far, seems to work really well.I wanted a pure sine inverter, but cost won out. I had also been using a cheap 400W portable inverter, and it ran everything fine, so I went with the modified sine with the built in because the cost difference was so big. I really wanted a built in transfer switch, so I picked this one.I haven't tried it, but based on the calculations, running the microwave on the inverter just didn't seem reasonable with 2 batteries (we don't have a generator). And since we are trying to get 4-5 days at a time on the batteries, I also ruled out anything like a toaster, coffee pot, or hair dryer. We really just use it for the TV and computer.Our microwave is on its own circuit, and all the 110V receptacles are on another circuit with the refrigerator. I wired it basically as you were considering. I spliced into the Romex coming out of the 15A breaker and ran from the breaker into the inverter. Then the output of the inverter gets connected back into the feed to circuit. Its the same concept as using a sub-panel, but you don't actually need the sub-panel since its only powering one circuit. I like this method because with the transfer switch, its automatic. Nothing to change or switch you just always have 110V power to the outlets. I just need to switch the fridge to gas manually so it doesn't run off the inverter. I could have separated it and added a breaker in the panel, but I can live with that one extra step.Whatever you select, I would definitely recommend a transfer switch and remote panel. A 2000 watt PS inverter/charger with full 4 stage charging is the ultimate setup, but its pretty pricey. For a fraction of that, we've been pretty happy with the modified sine. Having the built in inverter is really nice.

I went down the "whole house 1500 watt w/ ATS" road long ago, never again.My now 400 watt Cobra on a dedicated circuits works great. I got so sic and tired of the blips from the ATS clicking off the tv,......never again.I now try to find a reason to switch to a PSW, and can't find any, so if it ain't broke, it'll stay just like it is,...kiss ! I love it.Not to say, that my 1500 watt MSW, ruined a microwave before I believed those who said it would :(

Padlin,Sounds like you are well on your way to a sweet set-up.Here are a few thoughts that may, or may not, be of help:- To run a microwave for more than just a few seconds (and only when the batteries are 100% full), you will need more battery capacity. I suggest a minimum of four 6 volt GC batteries. (we frequently run ours with our four batteries)- To run a microwave, the inverter will need to be connected to the battery with large diameter wires that are short (in length).- Some devices don't fair well with MSW inverters. I never had problems (other than buzzing noises) before I switched to a PSW inverter, but I know people who have had their devices destroyed by MSW inverters.- If you really don't need automatic switching (who really does?), an alternative (not cheaper though) to the transfer relay is simply a 30 Amp DPDT center OFF switch. One advantage of such a switch is that you can switch your entire rig with it allowing the inverter to power everything (of course, can't run the AC)...this is what I do. Another advantage is that by manual switching past a center OFF position, there is less likelihood of burning the contacts.- I believe you get what you pay for with inverters. The Xantrex is a good quality consumer quality unit that should be fine for occasional use (I have the same inverter you are looking at), but it is not of industrial quality (something I would want if I lived in my trailer full time).- I (or should I say my wife) really likes the remote switch. She doesn't have to do anything other than just push a button to fire up the microwave to heat up lunch.- Another consideration that I think should be taken into account when shopping for inverters is their Standby Power consumption. Lower is better (you will find the Xantrex fairly low for a sine wave inverter in this price range). THD (Total Harmonic Distortion) is another factor that might be of importance, esp. if running high quality audio gear is important to you. One source for inverters that you may want to check into is Don Rowe- You are right in thinking of replacing your converter with a better battery charger. There are lots to choose from and probably all do a reasonable job. Just remember to check on the wire size between the charger and battery as it is likely too small for the distance. Better yet, why not put the inverter and charger right next to each other and run the same SHORT and FAT wires to them both.Because I use my trailer for winter (snow) camping, temperature compensation was important to me. So I choose the Xantrex TrueCharge 2. This is not a recommendation, just what and why I chose what I did. You may find, as I have, that with solar (I have 300 watts) you really won't need the battery charger very often Yes, I have a generator....just haven't yet needed it.I suggest you continue to do as you are and consider the whole package (inverter, charger, solar, transfer switch) as you design the system. This doesn't mean you have to do it all at once, but at least plan for it.Hope this rambling helps,Steve

The electronics in the average electric blanket (not the actual heating element) will quite possibly require you to have a PSW inverter. Selecting a blanket or pad that specifies that it does NOT require PSW ahead of time would be wise.A quality inverter/ATS combo, in a whole house configuration (minus the ac of course), works just fine.Your WFCO converter is fine, as long as it remains operational. It's just that WFCO has a poor longevity reputation. I would suggest a PD9260 when replacement is required.

Choosing and installing an inverter | Good Sam Community

Padlin
Explorer
Dec 04, 2014
Thanks for trying.
Bend
Explorer
Dec 04, 2014
Padlin wrote:

...
Anyone care to point me towards this or briefly explain it and the final conclusions?

I went alooking and could not find it. Seems its buried in the archives (over 1 year old) somewhere.

Mostly explained above.

Go with 15.3v max as Snowman9000 pointed out or 14.8v as most recommend.
Padlin
Explorer
Dec 04, 2014
Bend wrote:

Interstate's suggested requirements:

http://www.batteries-faq.com/activekb/questions.php?questionid=1

IIRC, we have addressed this before and decided that the Interstate engineers were out-to-lunch when it was written.

Anyone care to point me towards this or briefly explain it and the final conclusions?
Snowman9000
Explorer
Dec 04, 2014
Bend wrote:
BFL13 wrote:

...
The charging specs for the GC2 XHDs (and other brand 6s too) are the same as here by US Battery. In the 14s. 15.6 is only for Equalizing once in a while, not regular charging as the Vabs.

http://pdf.wholesalesolar.com/battery-folder/charging_instruction_2011_2.pdf
...

Interstate's suggested requirements:

http://www.batteries-faq.com/activekb/questions.php?questionid=1

IIRC, we have addressed this before and decided that the Interstate engineers were out-to-lunch when it was written.

OP, that chart from Interstate shows 15.3 for the golf cart 6v batteries. Third chart down.
BFL13
Explorer II
Dec 04, 2014
Yes, the OP must be wondering why what he reads as the proper charging specs for his batteries isn't right.

I suspect that Interstate is using "Bulk Voltage" when we (and US Battery) mean "Absorption Voltage" and Interstate is using their Vabs to mean the same thing as the US Battery's "Finish" letting the voltage rise into the 15s to maintain the current.

There is no such thing as "Bulk Voltage." Bulk is when voltage rises until it reaches Vabs with the charger's voltage staying just above battery voltage on the way up.

Trojan wants 14.8v for Vabs.
Bend
Explorer
Dec 04, 2014
BFL13 wrote:

...
The charging specs for the GC2 XHDs (and other brand 6s too) are the same as here by US Battery. In the 14s. 15.6 is only for Equalizing once in a while, not regular charging as the Vabs.

http://pdf.wholesalesolar.com/battery-folder/charging_instruction_2011_2.pdf
...

Interstate's suggested requirements:

http://www.batteries-faq.com/activekb/questions.php?questionid=1

IIRC, we have addressed this before and decided that the Interstate engineers were out-to-lunch when it was written.
pnichols
Explorer II
Dec 03, 2014
Padlin wrote:
Looking to add a decent inverter to power an electric blanket or heat pad, and charge the laptop and camera. I currently use a cheap, noisy, 400w portable for the laptop and camera.

For what it's worth .... all that can be replaced with 12 volt versions for powering and charging, so no inverter is necessary for those tasks. Since inverters waste energy performing their conversion process, more power is needed from your battery bank using an inverter than what is really necessary do do the things you want to do. For best drycamping power management, one should stay as much as possible in the inverter-less world.

In our RV we:

- Use the main batttery bank and 12 volt devices as much as possible.

- Use a small, fuel sipping, very quiet 650 watt four-stroke generator for every 2nd or 3rd day main battery bank charging.

- Use a quiet built-in generator for the microwave and air conditioning.

- Carry a small 300 watt pure sine wave inverter the we rarely use anymore for anything ... used to use it for the laptop and other small battery charging tasks until I converted the laptop to direct 12 volts and now use USB outlets for other small battery charging.
BFL13
Explorer II
Dec 03, 2014
BurbMan wrote:
Padlin, look at the ..........

BFL13 wrote:
That still leaves plugging the MW into a different receptacle or extension cord if you want a project to add to your list.

No need...since OP is using a transfer switch to bring inverter power to that circuit, the micro will work as normal when the rig is plugged into shore power.

That still leaves the MW on that circuit though.

We need to spend more of the OP's money so he has a big inverter for the MW, toaster, kettle, etc and a small PSW inverter for the blanket, laptop, etc. :)
BurbMan
Explorer II
Dec 03, 2014
Padlin, look at the Progressive Dynamics 4655, it is a direct replacement for the WFCO, so it will just slide in to the existing power center. You can also get the charge wizard pendant with the 4655 that will enable you to manually switch between charge voltages.

Also look at upgrading the wire gauge between the converter and batteries...sounds like you have a compact set up, but I had a 25' run and a big voltage drop.

BFL13 wrote:
That still leaves plugging the MW into a different receptacle or extension cord if you want a project to add to your list.

No need...since OP is using a transfer switch to bring inverter power to that circuit, the micro will work as normal when the rig is plugged into shore power.
BFL13
Explorer II
Dec 03, 2014
Padlin wrote:
I can't disagree that the 15.6 the solar has been at for this season is too high and likely to, or possibly might, smoke the $1000 fridge. The fridge (Dometic RML8555) specs online don't tell me what the input 12v range is. I'll dig my way into the trailer and see if the manual does any better. And I don't dis agree with SMKettner's observation that these settings are for batteries used in golf carts, that's what they are. Finding a standalone charger that goes that high is near impossible.

I suppose I can drop the top voltage down to 15.4 or some such and nix this as an issue, for now. I don't mind doing it manually once in a while as mentioned.

At the moment I come up with: I give up on the MW, which was always questionable. Purchase a Samlex PST-600-12 inverter with remote on/off, and the Kisae TS15A ATS, wired as I mentioned in the OP.

Is an Iota 45 amp converter/charger sufficient to replace the WFCO 8955? The 55 amp is only $10 more.

Before dropping the unwanted charging profile aspect of this, the OP has really got the wrong idea from somewhere about that.

The charging specs for the GC2 XHDs (and other brand 6s too) are the same as here by US Battery. In the 14s. 15.6 is only for Equalizing once in a while, not regular charging as the Vabs.

http://pdf.wholesalesolar.com/battery-folder/charging_instruction_2011_2.pdf

If you are on solar in the sun often when on shore power, you can keep the WFCO as your converter for the 13.6 to run the rig on while maintaining the disconnected batts with the solar

If off grid, you will be on solar so it doesn't matter what converter you have.

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