Converter kaput? Need to size replacement

[agesilaus]

OK here is the situation:
1)Progressive Dynamics Converter that worked all summer on one bank of 6V.
2) 2 banks of 6V x 2 golf cart batteries
3) Converter not charging the batteries
4) Pulled fuses and checked with DMM, all good
5) Checked cables, one was very loose. That tightened up.
6) Voltage with shore power disconnected at converter 10.78 V
7) Fan not operating on the converter

I can't see the 120 VAC in cable and might have to pull the converter out to get to it. Only access is behind the fuse panel but AC stuff all works in the RV.

So my diagnoses is that the converter is kaput, you all agree or what and how should I size a replacement to charge the two banks of 6 V batteries? Thanks for any help from people who know more about this than I do. Let me note that only one battery bank is connected right now.

[BFL13]

You can put the inverter close to the batteries so the input to the inverter is with short fat wires. The shore power cord via an adapter goes into an inverter receptacle once you are at the campsite.

The converter can be pulled out of the power centre and placed near the battery bank too, next to the inverter. That gives it short fat wires to the battery instead of a long run like it probably has now.

The battery to DC fuse panel wiring stays as is.

You just need a 120v receptacle handy somewhere to plug the converter into or the power bar. If you can just plug in the converter you can unplug it as needed so no need for the power bar switch. It all depends on the rig's layout what to do.

The solar controller can go in there with the inverter and converter close to the batteries too. You don't really need to see the controller that often.

[agesilaus]

That's an interesting thought. I'll look into doing it. I'm the process installing a solar system and have a 1500W inverter for that. Thinking about it I could put the power bar under the sink maybe. That would be accessible

[BFL13]

You have an opportunity at this stage to plug the converter into a power bar with its own switch where you can get at it, and plug the power bar in somewhere.

That will give you an easy way using the power bar's switch to turn off the converter if you are ever on an inverter "whole house".

In some rigs you can't just use the converter's circuit breaker, because it shares that breaker with the receptacles you want to stay live on inverter.

[agesilaus]

OK here is where I smash a carton of eggs on my face. I got the new converter and took a look at it, the power cord is not what I expected: a lug to put a heavy cable into. No it's a regular power cord with a 3 prong plug on back. To say that was a surprise is no exaggeration.

I cut a hole in the panel under the sink to try to see this converter and was contemplating pulling the stove out to gain access to the thing. I had tugged on the converter end of the power cable to see if it was loose but it seemed firmly attached, which it was.

After this discovery I went out and pulled the other end finding a loose 3 prong plug! *&($$#@!!

Anyway the silver lining to this is that you can return stuff to Amazon no questions asked. I still don't know where the thing plugs in but using an extension cord has it running for the time being until I find the right spot which seems to be at the bottom of the furnace somewhere. I'll put my boroscope to use and find it.

[agesilaus]

As I noted in my original post the fuses were checked with a DMM ohmeter. Breakers checked too, several times.

[BFL13]

Hope you didn't jump the gun there. Never heard if there was indeed 120v to the converter or if its RP fuses were good. If not, then the new one won't work either.

OTOH, I suppose we should assume you did all that stuff and that's that.

You still need an hydrometer to confirm your smart charger got the older 6s back up. Also you need the hydrometer to show that you got your new 6s up to proper SG after they have been sitting on the shelf however long at the store.

Beware of paralleling the new 6s with the old 6s if the old 6s don't prove out with the hydrometer test.

[agesilaus]

OK disconnected the batteries and checked the voltage. Zero, Nada, dead...

Ordered a new PD 60 amp tho I dithered over getting a PowerMax instead. Be here Saturday. Thanks for the suggestions.

[ksg5000]

If your converter is toast just replace it with the same one - size shouldn't be an issue. BTW - if it's just the converter your replacing then you don't have to place it in the same spot as the original.

[ndrorder]

Others have mentioned it but later in their posts. Prior to increasing the converter size be sure the wiring and inline fuses/breakers can handle it.

[wa8yxm]

agesilaus wrote:
Walked out a bit later 240 dollars lighter with a brand new factory refurb Back to Tekonsha hooked it up. plugged in my original wizard and off to Where I am now (My winter quarters) it's still working,.
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How big was that, you can buy a new 60 amp for less than that and a 70 amp for slightly more.

That was an 80 and it included Michigan's 6% sales tax (it was actually also a few dollars less than what I typed but I do not recall the exact price).

OH and for 2 pair of 6v's how big is 80 in traditional converters (That's as big as they come) or up to 120 if you can get it. (That would be like a 3000 watt inveter/charger many of them do 100 or more)

You may need to upgrade wires if upgrading converter.

[cavie]

Since you have been playing with the batteries, Check the two 30/40 amp reverse polarity fuses on the converter! Check the 120 volt convert breaker.
check the inline 12 volt fuse mounted with in 6' of the batteries.

Converter 120 volt in 12 volt out.

[ScottG]

If I understand correctly, your question was about sizing the new converter. Since you have two sets of 6V's, I would go with something like an 80A to 100A unit. However, that also depends on whether you plan to use a generator to power it and recharge the batts. If you have one of the 2000 watt inverter gens then you're going to want to stick with nothing bigger than a 60A converter.
If you go with one of those bigger converters, you'll probably need to upgrade the wires to your batts.

[agesilaus]

I have them connected to a smart charger. I'll pull the converter in the morning if it fails the test which I think it will.

[BFL13]

agesilaus wrote:
Yeah I was sitting here thinking about it and figured out I had it backwards. I'll do that tomorrow.

If the two 6s you have connected now are at 10.78 I would not leave them like that another minute. (They might already be toast though.)

An hydrometer will remove all mystery as to the SOC of the batteries, regardless of what the voltage is saying for whatever reasons.
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WRT above, whyinheck would you pay over $200 for one of those, when you can get one of these for $136 that has adjustable voltage so you can do anything the battery specs want? 6s want 14.8ish normally and 16ish every so often.

https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/products/powermax-pm3-60lk-12-volts-60-amp-power-converter-batt...