Delamination remediation

[darsben1]

I have a small area of delamination just below the RV refrigerator outside access panel.
If I remove the panel completely I would have room to put something in there to reglue the area. spraying would be easiest for me but I want effective. The area extends downward abut 30 inches and side to side about 24 inches.

I am looking for a relatively simple fix that I can do myself.

What are your thoughts?
I am looking for first/second hand experiences. I know how to search and look at YouTube videos on my own.

[darsben1]

Unveiled repair and boy am I pleased.
The west 105 A resin and hardener seems to have really done the job.
I have caulked the area well with a matching caulk and reinstalled the vent using SS screws. The wood I put behind the repaired area really allowed the SS screw to have something to grab.
Now to get on the road in a few days and see how it goes.
To those contemplating doing this I found it very easy and my skill level is not the highest

[CaLBaR]

What epoxy did you use? I believe you used something from West Marine but could you provide the name of the epoxy please?

Thanks,

[darsben1]

It was easier than I thought to pour the epoxy. I read a tip that putting the 2 parts of the epoxy in HOT water would lower the viscosity. I bought a funnel and some plastic tubing. Mixed 16 ounces at a time and used the funnel with tube to pour in the epoxy. I used a marble rolling pin on the fiberglass skin to distribute the epoxy inside. I have the braces in place and plan to leave them there 24 hours. More later

[Wild_Card]

If you could figure out a vacuum bond would be the deal

[Gjac]

Make sure the substrate is dry before bonding. Several things you can do, one is to put wedges between the outer Filon skin and the debonded substrate and park it is the sun for several days, use a hair dryer, or put some acetone in the area it will aid it drying the area as the solvent flashes off. If you use a polyurethane adhesive like Gorilla glue it is much more forgiving than epoxy when it comes to moisture because water will activate it. A lot of moisture will really activate it and it will foam rapidly causing large bubbles leaving a weaker bond. I said all this because when I fixed mine I could not get all the moisture out and used the polyurethane adhesive . It held for about 5 or 6 years and the disbonding came back. The other side held for about 9 years. Epoxy will be a stronger bond but too much moisture will weaken or prevent a good bond. I think HD sells a moisture meter that will give you a reading of the moisture content. Good luck on your project.

[darsben1]

Remediation begun. Took off the vent on Thursday airing out Delamination area. I guess I am going to go the epoxy route from West marine.
Building braces so that will be done before hand.
Used construction adhesive to mount wood backing onto thin Luan that covers Styrofoam. This way I can use SS screws and screw into something substantial. The area cannot be seen once vent cover is on.
Pouring epoxy tomorrow

[darsben1]

Thank you all for your answers. I will keep checking the thread for any other input

[fourthclassC]

Howdy, I have done extensive delam. repair by peeling up the filon and replacing the luan with lexan plexi glass at the same thickness, with many small holes in it to enhance the bonding. Always used Gorilla glue (which I believe is water proof once cured) I contacted gorilla and described my repair. They said the glue will likely last longer then the substrate. So far (3 yrs) all ok. Like many have said, it must be clamped securely or will bulge out from the glue swell. Suggest expanding cargo bar or even expanding shower curtain rod against a building or strong fence post. Also consider some type of polyolefin based release film under the foot of the clamping bar "foot" so it will not stick to the repair. Nothing sticks to polyethelene or polypropylene.

[darsben1]

jdb7566 wrote:

darsben1 wrote:
I have a small area of delamination just below the RV refrigerator outside access panel.
If I remove the panel completely I would have room to put something in there to reglue the area. spraying would be easiest for me but I want effective. The area extends downward abut 30 inches and side to side about 24 inches.

I am looking for a relatively simple fix that I can do myself.

What are your thoughts?
I am looking for first/second hand experiences. I know how to search and look at YouTube videos on my own.

There are no simple fixes when it comes to delamination. It's like a cancer that needs to be cut out. A new rig may be in order. I'm sure CW have many fine units for you to peruse.

Subtle sarcasm?
directed at me?
directed at another entity?

[ksg5000]

Solution to delam depends on the cause. If it's water then you have to fix the leak, dry out, replace wood if it's rotted ... and then determine how to re-adhere the delam spot. Can be expensive process.

In my case my small delam spot was due to heat/age and I went down to West Marine to discuss (delam is common in boats) ... I purchased the recommended epoxy (can't remember what it was) - drilled a few small holes,injected the epoxy and covered the area with pressure clamp. I covered the tiny holes with some matching nail polish. Been yrs and the fix is holding up.

[jdb7566]

darsben1 wrote:
I have a small area of delamination just below the RV refrigerator outside access panel.
If I remove the panel completely I would have room to put something in there to reglue the area. spraying would be easiest for me but I want effective. The area extends downward abut 30 inches and side to side about 24 inches.

I am looking for a relatively simple fix that I can do myself.

What are your thoughts?
I am looking for first/second hand experiences. I know how to search and look at YouTube videos on my own.

There are no simple fixes when it comes to delamination. It's like a cancer that needs to be cut out. A new rig may be in order. I'm sure CW have many fine units for you to peruse.

[darsben1]

KMLsquared wrote:
Don't mean to hyjack but what if the leak was cured. Is there any harm in not fixing the delam issue?

It can affect structural integrity and if not repaired and dried out the rot may spread

[darsben1]

Kayteg1 wrote:

darsben1 wrote:
Keyteg1
How long ago did you do this? I am thinking about the longevity of the repair

I did the first repair about 3 years ago and more last spring.
Bare in mind none of those glues are water-resistant so they will hold as long as there is no water penetration.
On some areas like cord boxes, I used epoxy to laminate the old wood, what adds strength and makes it waterproof, but epoxy has its limits in application and doesn't work too well on vertical surfaces.
If you don't open the bubble and dry it, per my experience the trapped moisture will sit there for a year if no longer - still dry-rotting the wood.

Thanks for your reply

[Kayteg1]

darsben1 wrote:
Keyteg1
How long ago did you do this? I am thinking about the longevity of the repair

I did the first repair about 3 years ago and more last spring.
Bare in mind none of those glues are water-resistant so they will hold as long as there is no water penetration.
On some areas like cord boxes, I used epoxy to laminate the old wood, what adds strength and makes it waterproof, but epoxy has its limits in application and doesn't work too well on vertical surfaces.
If you don't open the bubble and dry it, per my experience the trapped moisture will sit there for a year if no longer - still dry-rotting the wood.