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Diodes between (-) terminals on parallel batteries. Why?

Dirtdaddy
Explorer
Explorer
I’m not sure I understand the stock parallel battery configuration on the wiring in my 2001 Lance 2185 travel trailer. I would think that two standard lead acid 12 Volt batteries would be wired in parallel with Neg on Battery # 1 to Neg on Battery # 2 and Positive on Battery # 1 to Positive on Battery #2. Instead there are two 1N4003 diodes with the cathodes (-) facing each other and the Anodes (+) on the each of the negative terminal side of both batteries (see diagram). Can anyone explain the need for this circuit? Thanks!



https://imgur.com/a/SyTmKFY
Mike
10 REPLIES 10

Dirtdaddy
Explorer
Explorer
wa8yxm wrote:
Dirtdaddy wrote:
I think "Flapper's" response make the most sense. I think this was an attempt to balance the batteries when one was weaker and/or older and not well matched. I'm going to remove the diode circuit this weekend and replace with large AWG wire between the negative terminals.


That would be my suggestion too.

Also there are a lot of "Myths" about batteries in parallel Some of them are based on batteries in series.

now when you take a pair of GC-2 and put 'em in series to make a big 12 volt they need to be twins. Same everything (Make, Model Age and so on)

But when you put a pair of 12's in parallel.. That' not the case.. The myth is if you put say a Group 24 next to a Group 31 the 24 will "Charge faster" and convince the charger that it's full so it goes to float before the 31 is full.. NOT SO.. or that the 24 will run down faster.. again not so.

What will happen.. For reference I'm going to use 70 AH for the 24 and 130 for the 31 for 200 AH total

The smaller battery will take 35% of the charging current and the larger 65%.. They will hit full in perfect lock step (After the first discharge recharge cycle)

And likewise when discharging they will share 35/65 and hit the cut off point precisely together..> The perfect power commune.

Now in the case of older batteries that have developed a higher internal resistance.. Well then you may have something but they will work it out just not always in perfect lock step.

I am the voice of experience on this.


This is interesting stuff! It makes me think I could put a third battery in my trailer without too much fuss ( it would be a newer version of the same ones I bought at Costco). thank you for the help
Mike

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Dirtdaddy wrote:
I think "Flapper's" response make the most sense. I think this was an attempt to balance the batteries when one was weaker and/or older and not well matched. I'm going to remove the diode circuit this weekend and replace with large AWG wire between the negative terminals.


That would be my suggestion too.

Also there are a lot of "Myths" about batteries in parallel Some of them are based on batteries in series.

now when you take a pair of GC-2 and put 'em in series to make a big 12 volt they need to be twins. Same everything (Make, Model Age and so on)

But when you put a pair of 12's in parallel.. That' not the case.. The myth is if you put say a Group 24 next to a Group 31 the 24 will "Charge faster" and convince the charger that it's full so it goes to float before the 31 is full.. NOT SO.. or that the 24 will run down faster.. again not so.

What will happen.. For reference I'm going to use 70 AH for the 24 and 130 for the 31 for 200 AH total

The smaller battery will take 35% of the charging current and the larger 65%.. They will hit full in perfect lock step (After the first discharge recharge cycle)

And likewise when discharging they will share 35/65 and hit the cut off point precisely together..> The perfect power commune.

Now in the case of older batteries that have developed a higher internal resistance.. Well then you may have something but they will work it out just not always in perfect lock step.

I am the voice of experience on this.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Dirtdaddy
Explorer
Explorer
I think "Flapper's" response make the most sense. I think this was an attempt to balance the batteries when one was weaker and/or older and not well matched. I'm going to remove the diode circuit this weekend and replace with large AWG wire between the negative terminals.
Mike

Dirtdaddy
Explorer
Explorer
BB_TX wrote:
Never seen or heard of anything like that. How many other wires are on those terminals?
Honestly, it's hard to tell what was factory and what was added later. There are at least two sets of items I added (AC inverter & some accessory lighting) and a line to the Colman Solar charger/regulator that I believe was an aftermarket installation. Other than that the red wire that goes between the positive battery terminals of both batteries (no diodes) and the white wire with the opposing diodes between the two batteries on the negative terminals.
Mike

stevenal
Nomad II
Nomad II
wa8yxm wrote:
Not only would it prevent a stronger battery from charging a weaker battery
It would prevent the converter from doing so as well.. No valid reason for doing that.


I would expect the converter negative lead to be between the two diodes. The voltage drop across the diodes will prevent the converter from fully charging the batteries, though, unless the converter has been adjusted to a higher voltage.
'18 Bigfoot 1500 Torklifts and Fastguns
'17 F350 Powerstroke Supercab SRW LB 4X4

BB_TX
Nomad
Nomad
Never seen or heard of anything like that. How many other wires are on those terminals?

Dirtdaddy
Explorer
Explorer
wa8yxm wrote:
Not only would it prevent a stronger battery from charging a weaker battery
It would prevent the converter from doing so as well.. No valid reason for doing that.


The funny thing is it looks almost factory. No mention of it in the manual/schematics, so maybe someone added it.
Mike

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Not only would it prevent a stronger battery from charging a weaker battery
It would prevent the converter from doing so as well.. No valid reason for doing that.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Dirtdaddy
Explorer
Explorer
Flapper wrote:
It's an attempt to prevent a stronger battery from charging a weaker battery. Sometimes used when the batteries are of two different capacities, or wide age difference.
Best to always have both batteries be the same type and age. Then one doesn't need a "patch", they keep each other in balance. Your diagram doesn't show, but depending on where the load comes off, or the charger connects, there could be issues with getting full use, or full charge, out of one or the other. Get two matching batteries, and get rid of the diodes.


I put two matching batteries in it, so I was hoping I could replace this config with a solid 4 AWG on both the positive & negative terminals. When I dug into it I noticed this circuit and wasn't sure what it did. Thanks for the explanation!
Mike

Flapper
Explorer
Explorer
It's an attempt to prevent a stronger battery from charging a weaker battery. Sometimes used when the batteries are of two different capacities, or wide age difference.
Best to always have both batteries be the same type and age. Then one doesn't need a "patch", they keep each other in balance. Your diagram doesn't show, but depending on where the load comes off, or the charger connects, there could be issues with getting full use, or full charge, out of one or the other. Get two matching batteries, and get rid of the diodes.
2012 F150 Eco, 4x4, SCrew, Max Tow, HD Payload
2017 Grand Design Imagine 2670MK