DIY winterization

I always used air in Co. I had a 3hp/30 gal tank with a 1/2" reg set to 40 psi. After blowing all the lines twice, I blew the traps and put the drain plugs in. No antifreeze there, either. I siphoned the last bit of water out of the WH and blew out the pump and put it in the garage. I preferred air cuz we camped on the nice weekends and air was fast. I winterized 5 times one winter! Craig

I use the pink stuff. Get it for 2.50 a gallon at Menards. It is a piece of cake. $350.00 Belongs in with the SVU. What kind of rig do you have.

I have been blowing my lines out for close to 15 years and have had one small problem when I must have forgotten to open the low point drain. Other than that, no problems and it's quick and, as long as you bypass the water heater after draining it, all you then need to do is put the pink stuff in the P traps and you're good to go. Just remember to turn on "all" the possible faucets and open the lines to the toilet. You probably have an outdoor shower, don't forget that and, if you have an outdoor kitchen of some sort, don't forget that. Also, blow out the black tank flush to make sure that one doesn't get frozen and cracked. The reason I like to blow mine out and not fill the lines with pink stuff is having to get it out in the spring when we get ready to go camping.

I agree that $350 is way excessive. I winterized with pink stuff for 15+ years (now I just take the fiver to Arizona) in Northern Illinois winters with never a problem.

First you bypass the hot water heater (maybe they had to put in a bypass to justify that cost?);

drain the water heater;

drain the fresh water tank;

if not there already put a T fitting in the line to the input of the water pump with a short hose attached and a couple of valves to switch between the tank feed and the short hose;

drop the hose into a gallon jug of antifreeze;

turn on the pump;

go to the faucet farthest from the pump and run cold water it until it runs pink (nice to have a helper out by the pump to switch to a new jug occasionally);

then run the hot side until it runs pink;

repeat for all of the faucets, shower and toilet;

disconnect the line to the shower head so it drains;

don't forget to open the check valve on the city water connection and let it run pink as well (try not to get a face-full of water - don't ask);

running the taps will fill the traps at the same time and put a little bit of anti freeze into the gray and black tanks, which should have been emptied as well.

Don't forget things like washer connections, sprayers in kitchen sink or toilet, lines to built in water filters (which should be drained & bypassed), ice makers, and outside showers.

Whole job should not take more than 45 minutes and you know it was done right.

$350 to winterize...WoW, I'm going into that business.
Takes me about half an hour and I'm slow and meticulous.

It's a never ending debate about which method to use. I won't re-fight that.

Either way, if you are going to continue RV'ing learn to do it yourself. Lots of guides on line, lots of videos and lots of advice here on the Forum.

It's very easy and and very inexpensive. A decent compressor with a tank is a handy tool to have even if you aren't an RVer.

Take out drain plug from water heater and drain it. Take screen cover off the pump and drain the water from it. You still need the pink stuff in the traps and toilet.

Personally I find it much easier to just pump pink stuff throughout, but blowing out the lines works too, as long as you remember the odd places that don't get blown out.

Two gallons of RV antifreeze costs less than $10. I use about 1-1/2 gallons to winterize our MH water piping plus the drain traps. Since the water pump is used to pump the antifreeze, it is protected too. Takes about 20 minutes to do the entire job. I just drain the water heater.

Lots of folks use the blow out method, but I don't feel comfortable with that method. A tank type compressor is needed for that method, as a large flow rate of air is necessary to atomize the water in the low points of the piping to be sure all water is out. Antifreeze is still needed for the drain traps anyway.

You could probably winterize your RV with antifreeze for 10 years for what you will pay for an adequate compressor.

IMO, $350 for a winterize job is a rip off.

wannabervin wrote:
I'm considering doing winterization my self next time around after paying about $350 for it this winter. Thinking that a one-time cost for a compressor would pay for itself quickly. If I blow out the lines, does that eliminate the need for antifreeze? What about water remaining in the pump and hot water heater?

You must have a MH with washer/dryer etc. to pay that much.

If you decide to do it yourself, both methods work just fine. Antifreeze will be needed still if you use air, but only for the P traps, tub/shower & toilet. 1-2 gallons.

If you do use air, set the compressor to about 50lbs PSI & go through all the steps 2-3 times to clear all lines. Also, the larger compressor tank capacities are best, as you need VOLUME more so than pressure. Use an oilless compressor ONLY.

You'll get differing opinions on this. Easiest/cheapest way is to drain water and then pump pink af through the lines. Af replaces the water in the lines. Also safest, imo. Only expense is a couple of gallons of af. You can drain the wh independently, then bypass it for the af.