Dometic RM2652 no power to upper control board

[rvman69]

This is a Dometic RM2652 about a 2010 maybe a little older. I just got done putting in a rebuilt cooling unit. Before I put the cooling unit in I could turn the power button on the control panel on and the LED light would come on. Well after I got the new cooling unit in and the fridge back in its place and all hooked up. When I turn the light switch on I get no LED light like there is no power there. There is no heating element in it at this time. Pretty sure it should work on gas without having heating element installed. I do get 12 volts from the power lug up to the thermal breaker and across it. Then from there to board in back. The light in the fridge does work. It's like it is not getting 12v up to the upper control board. What is the best way for me to test power getting up to the upper control board? I was careful with the wires that go up to the top of the fridge and inside. But anything can happen I guess. Thanks

[rvman69]

Doug, Here is a pic showing my main board and reignitor. Also a pic of reignitor with cover off of it with original electrode unplugged. I will have to get a pic of the new electrode installed. I dont have one at the moment. I am not with it at the moment. Thanks

[dougrainer]

Take a pic of the burner showing the thermocoupler. Some models have a spark electrode that also is the flame sense. NOT yours tho.

Sorry, I screwed up. Your system HAS a electronic thermocoupler. So, you have the spark electrode at the burner. Then you have the 2 wire thermocoupler flame sensor that connects to the control board. YES, you do have the reignitor under that black cover upper right of the control board. Doug
Your pic of the white reignitor shows the yellow and white power wires but nothing connecting to the spark spade terminal.

[bigfootford]

Well I do see the igniter/solenoid output connector on the control board wiring is different from you board.
Dinosaur says:
*Warning: The Micro P-711 CANNOT replace any Black Box Board part number that starts with "385"! You must identify
the part number of the physical board that is actually in your refrigerator now! Failure to do so can result in getting the wrong
board! Please look on the black cover or under the black cover for a part number that begins with "385 or "293"

I noticed that your board says Canada on it...Wonder if that is the reason it is different. I have no clue about that.


If you have the 12vdc coming off that Yellow wire when it is ignite time then the control board is good. Igniter would be in trouble.

If you are in doubt I would call Dinosaur or email them. They are good folks.

Bryant's and dougrainer are fellas that have been in the RV service business for years and have been valuable for tech support on the appliances etc....On RV.net.

Here is a nice write up from Bryant's about the fridge theory of operation...

http://bryantrv.com/refcontrols.html

Jim.

[rvman69]

Jim, my board is not wired like Dave's wiring diagram. It is a totally different board. My board does not look like the one in the manual pic. You have to go by the listed items. There is no pic of my board in the manual. It has a J1 and J9 that has to be used and most other connections are different. Look at my pic listed connections compared to his wiring diagram. Even on Dinosaur boards they have a board just to replace my board only basically. If I wired it up like his diagram it definitely would not work. Thanks

[bigfootford]

Here is a Dometic wiring diagram, Daves is simple.

https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Appliances/Refrigerator/Dometic/Dometic-Refer-Model-RM26...

Here is the Dometic Service tips....

https://manuals.heartlandowners.org/manuals/Appliances/Refrigerator/Dometic/Dometic-Refer-Model-RM26...

These are something you should download and print out.

Jim.

[rvman69]

The board on mine is wired different than what Dave shows on that link. (See pics) I only unplugged wires I had to unplug to get it apart. I left the main board, reignitor and gas valve assembly all as one piece when I took it off. So I did not undo any of the reignitor connections at all. I undone the ground where the reignitor grounds to but just to take off the ground wire that goes to wires that go to top of fridge. I cleaned them up when putting the one back on. I will check for 12v at the gas valve and then at the reignitor. Like you said if I have 12v at both places the main board is doing its job and it has to be the reignitor or a problem at the electrode. If you notice in my pic I had the 12v from the block to the wrong place when I first put it back in. That is why the fridge light worked at first and nothing else. The red wire on right side belongs on the Batt terminal on the far left. I have not been able to do anything today so far. We have had some bad storms. Thanks

[dougrainer]

IF you have 12 volt power to the Reignitor, then the control board is doing its job. I still think you have messed up the reignitor wiring somehow, or do NOT have the Spark electrode mounted correctly. Doug

[bigfootford]

rvman69 wrote:
There is only one place on this board that the gas valve and ignitor power can plug into. The 12v power wire goes from the control board to the gas selenoid valve to the ignitor. I guess I should check and make sure it is not loosing voltage from the selenoid valve to the reignitor. My board is 385 04 15-01 if I replace it with a Dinosaur board does it have the reignitor built into it? I was told you cant get a replacement reignitor. Do I use the original thermocouple and ignitor? I dont want to buy a new board if the reignitor is bad and cant be replaced. Thanks

The Dinosaur board for the 2652 does not have the igniter built in.


Wow, OEM igniter is no longer avail. This is the only place I have found it...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/164674934043

Make sure that you have yours wired up properly..

Look at this simplified diag at Dave's Place and make sure that the wire from the solenoid to the igniter + then to the control board is in the proper place... AND the ground wire goes to ground!

You should hear the gas valve turn on for about 3 seconds if the control board is working correctly. That signal turning on the gas valve is the same signal that tells the Igniter to start firing!
You should see the 12vdc at the wire on the gas valve as you turn on the fridge in the gas mode! One wire is - negative and the other is the signal 12vdc.

http://dave78chieftain.com/2807tronics.html

Jim.

[rvman69]

There is only one place on this board that the gas valve and ignitor power can plug into. The 12v power wire goes from the control board to the gas selenoid valve to the ignitor. I guess I should check and make sure it is not loosing voltage from the selenoid valve to the reignitor. My board is 385 04 15-01 if I replace it with a Dinosaur board does it have the reignitor built into it? I was told you cant get a replacement reignitor. Do I use the original thermocouple and ignitor? I dont want to buy a new board if the reignitor is bad and cant be replaced. Thanks

[bigfootford]

Correct, if the Control board is working correctly to run the fridge on AC.
Also, since the gas valve is clicking that part is working too.

That means the igniter is defective or the signal from the control board to the igniter is not working.
Make sure that the igniter wiring from the control board is in the proper connector on the control board.

If you have a dvm you can watch the signal, 12vdc coming out of the control board to the igniter. It should go to 12vdc when you turn on the fridge and have the gas button depressed. Have to have someone help you do this. The signal is going to be there for about 3 seconds...

I had to replace my igniter about 10 years ago. I also replace my control board because when traveling, sometimes the flame would go out due to wind. I got the Dinosaur Board and ended that issue.
The Dinosaur board will retry relight several times... Also has an adjustment that you can raise or lower the fridge temp a couple of deg.. Nice feature too. Search for Dinosaur board domestic.


Jim.

[rvman69]

I adjusted on the electrode and can not get it to work. I do not think it is sparking as it should. I could here the reignitor pulses but no good spark. By the time I was done messing with it I could not here it pulsing at all. So I unhooked the electrode and still did not here a pulse or get a spark with a screw driver. I went ahead and turned the fridge on AC so it can get cold before we take it to the campground. So what do you think I have going on. What would make the reignitor quit working? The thing is it works on AC so the 12v and 120v fuses have to be good. Thanks

[rvman69]

Yeah I am wearing clean surgical gloves when I mess with the electrode. (No powder) Yeah got back from my trip yesterday. It was not a camping trip. We take camper out to campground Thursday or Friday. I will try to bend the tab to make the adjustment first. I guess if I bend the electrode I need to hold the metal wire with pliers while bending with another. Thanks

[bigfootford]

rvman69 wrote:
Ok I got my new Electrode in today. I installed it and I do get a spark but the flame will not light. I lit it with a long grill lighter and the flame looked good and blue and stayed lit until I turned it off in about 30 minutes. I dont think the gap and position of the tip of the electrode is good. How can I adjust the gap and position of the electrode? Can you bend it? Thanks

Should be able to bend the little tab that is held by the little screw. If not just bend the electrode. Make absolutely sure your hands are clean and NO oils when touching the ceramic isolator.

Test the electrode with a screwdriver. Hav e someone turn the fridge on while you use the screwdriver to almost shot the tip of the electrode.
Should hear and see the spark. Valve opens with a click and a millisecond later the spark should occur.

Your back from your trip?

Jim.

[rvman69]

Ok I got my new Electrode in today. I installed it and I do get a spark but the flame will not light. I lit it with a long grill lighter and the flame looked good and blue and stayed lit until I turned it off in about 30 minutes. I dont think the gap and position of the tip of the electrode is good. How can I adjust the gap and position of the electrode? Can you bend it? Thanks

[bigfootford]

rvman69 wrote:
I got the Dometic heating element in today. I got it installed and everything wrapped up. I turned the refrigerator on at 1:10 and at that time the freezer temp was 70 degrees and the water I had in the fridge was 60 degrees. At around 4 the freezer was down to about 10 degrees and the fridge was at about 45 degrees. So I shut it off since I am going to be out of town until Monday. So I think it is working good. I messed with the electrode a little more but can not get it to spark. So I have a new electrode on the way. Hopefully that will take care of my problem. Oh yeah the tube being welded up higher I was not afraid it would not work right. I was just showing why the heating element sets higher and the plate wont fit around it like original. So I cut mine up higher and then pop riveted a piece of duct metal to it to make the opening the same size as it was factory. Probably would not matter but it makes me feel better. I might be back if I cant get the new electrode working. Thanks

Great... Hope you have a great run!
Jim.