Engine Computer Connector

[landyacht318]

My ECM has 2 connectors, a 14 way connector and a 60 way connector.

The 14 way connector was compromised by techs prior to, or early in my ownership, probing the wire insulation.

Eventually wires broke entirely and my 'temporary', get me home fix( 11 years ago) was to drill through the connector insert bare stranded wire through the socket connector so that it was sandwiched between pin on the circuit board and the socket on the connector, and reseat connector.

This temporary fix turned a bit permanent, and some other wires suffered the same fate and treatment over the years. Rtv'ing the probed wires had only slowed down the process. The upside was that everytime things went wrong with the engine I knew it was this dang connector acting up again.

The pressure required to reseat the connector with this extra copper in the pin/socket apparently has broken the solder joints on the potted circuit board. Right now I have to wiggle tweak push and pull to get everything working normally, then immobilize the connector in order to drive.

Today I drove to the junk yard and scored 2 connectors from 89 mopars in pretty good condition, but I believe 2 or more of the wires is a gauge or 2 thinner than what is on My Vehicle. Not sure yet, but the wire color coding is almost exactly the same.

Would be nice to just splice in a new connector without worrying about the possibly thinner gauge

The tail end of the connector is enclosed over the wire insulation.

Read: it is not going to be easy to get fatter wire attached directly to socket inside connector.

One of the fatter wires is for the field control of the alternator.

While similar to molex connectors they are not the same. The pins on the circuit board are not tapered. Inside the socket there is a little arm which puts pressure on the pin/socket.

I've a reman'd engine computer in the mail.

I'd love to never deal with this connection again. However it is in a bad area and prone to moisture intrusion and also bakes since it sits about 10 inches over the engine.

I'd love to just rtv over the dang thing, but that seems a bit permanent and drastic.

The locking mechanism on the connector is also a stupid design and does not really hold it tight or even moisture tight unless huge amounts of dielectric grease are gobbed on.

But I d rather not have grease inside the pin and sockets, but just outside this zone.

Splicing the new connector in is going to be a bit tight. Sure be easier to use uninsulated crimps and quality heat shrink rather than soldering.

Any tips and tricks I am unaware of to make this a permanent solution to a decade long issue?

Also I am looking to have my old ECM rebuilt to have as a back up. Anybody have any recommendations on companies who do such things? Besides Cardone?

Would be great if I could get them to add an adjustable trim pot for the voltage regulator 😉

[landyacht318]

12 Days later and I have not had a stalling or stuttering issue since I reflowed the solder on the circuit board, and the engine starts and runs super smoothly.

I have used various Caig DeOXit products on a majority of other electrical connectors. D5 to clean, and Gold or Shield to protect after cleaning. The 02 sensor, Map and TPS sensor pins and sockets were heavily oxidized, as well as the connector for the fuel pump, despite a liberal coating of Dielectric grease "protecting" the contacts from degradation. I've got a bunch more connectors to deal with in a preventative maintenance mindset, as I am simply so impressed with how much oxidation Caig D5 DeOxit is able to remove even after a thorough cleaning with other products.

I could not really get much, if any Caig F5 Fader lube inside the Throttle Position Sensor as opening it up to reach the conductive surfaces would likely have ruined it. I just made a puddle in the one receptacle and moved it through its range with a screwdriver and the F5 either crept in or Evaporated. I did not check to see if resistance changed nice and linearly with movement beforehand, so Did not afterward either.

Anyway, it seems the demons have been exorcised and I have confidence again in my Vehicle's propulsion unit. Looking forward to getting Caig products onto other mating electrical contacts throughout.

[landyacht318]

I acquired a Weller 8200pk 100/140 watt soldering gun, from Amazon, for cheaper than my local Home Despot, and with no tax, and 2 day (free) shipping.

My older failed ECM, I reflowed and added some solder to all 14 pins. No more pin Wobbling. I installed it, van started up ran fine. 7 times it started fine. 8th time, and ASD relay started kicking in and out, just like 9 years ago when I replaced this ECM.

But, I did not screw things up by resoldering the Pins on the circuit board!

So, I removed my mostly functioning ECM. I depotted it around 14 pin connector. Loose pins were detectable on the backside of the circuit board, and were wobble free after a reflowing/adding of regular 63/37 electronics solder.

The 140 watts of Weller Liquified the solder practically instantly, and I had a length of .032 diameter solder pressed against pin base and it was gobbled up quickly.

I also acquired a bunch of very fine, tightly wound cotton Swabs, and had another go at pins and sockets with both D5 and DeOxit gold. I went a bit nutty with Caig Deoxit D5 and a micro q tip in the dremel and was able to turn more cotton dark gray.

Anyway, reinstalled, it fired right up, and ran great, but the code 53 is still there.

Hopefully the Demons have been exorcised.

Now to have my older ECM rebuilt and have a back up. I wish I knew what part failed, I'm not scared to depot, remove and reinstall components anymore, unless they are super tiny.

Amazing the difference between a 40 watt Iron and the 140 watt Solder gun. I likely could have pulled this off with the 40 watt Iron, but I was able to liquify solder, and add more, and get the heat source off in under a second.

I am impressed with the Weller WEL8200PK. I do not know why I was reluctant to get one as it makes a joke out of the regular irons.

This pic shows the older ECM after I pasted liquid electrical tape over the reflowed solder. Those mini pipe cleaners are quite handy for application and scrubbing.



Sold next to the dental floss in your local pharmacy, but cheaper on Amazon.

I also have acquired some Deoxit F5 Fader lube. I did the 10 turn pot on my Meanwell rsp-500-15 with it as it became crusty and voltage change was no longer smooth. It worked perfectly.

I will be using it on My throttle position sensor too as these are the similar type of construction as potentiometers and faders.

I hope this resolves my stalling issues.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

SDR-9703



Bismuth Solder

This stuff works at a remarkably low temperature. It's strong and you can buy enough for your repair for a very low cost. It prevents burning of circuit boards, and connectors. It melts at a much lower temperature than even SN 63/37

[landyacht318]

Well, I got around to getting some Deoxit inside the 14 and 60 way connectors.

That Caig DeOxit 'technicians kit' I acquired, came with these nice precision applicators/Qtips which fit perfectly into the sockets in the 14 way connector, and had even smaller ones in which the tip could reach perhaps half way into the 60 way connector, whose pins are smaller.

I first used the crc QED for the pressure wash, then q tips to clean and dry and buff pins. Then Deoxit Spray, on all 4 mating surfaces and let it sit.

The generic Q Tips I used to mop up excess and buff the 60 pin connector turned dark grey, I went through 4 Q Tips, both sides, and the pins turned shiny and silky oily smooth. The fifth q tip stayed pinkish with the deoxit.

The Caig kit provided mini q tips/precision applicators fit perfectly inside the 14 way connector sockets. The first one turned dark gray after the 4th socket and fell apart after the 10th and was dark black. The second one was medium grey by the time I got back to the first pin, and black by the time I finished the 14th. The third, light gray and still in excellent condition after cruising through all 14 sockets.

The 60 pin sockets turned the other, needle like swabs, black, even faster and I went through all the kit came with, but then started wrapping cotton from the generic t tips around the precision Caig needle sticks. Until I was fairly satisfied the smaller sockets were clean at least 3/4 the way deep.

I wound up using the last of these precision swabs to apply the DeOxit Gold, which they say is great for dissimilar metals. Which these connectors are.

The Q tips or swabs used with Deoxit gold stayed pretty clean, a light tan color and can be reused.

The connectors seated like butter. Dielectric grease sealed their perimeters after seating. Zip ties took all wire weight off both connectors. I cut a very thin hard Rubber wedge and used it in between the 14 ways connector's 2 halves.

Ran great to the ocean and even better back, but the code 53 is present again.
I doubt the Stalling issue is resolved and no doubt will come back at some point as the pins are loose and floating in the circuit board.

Anyway, anybody who ever used any other contact cleaner and thought it removed all contaminants, as well as oxidation, was wrong.

The amount of grey black crud I was able to remove with Deoxit after using CRC, twice, was amazing.

I have always used generous amounts of Dielectric grease on these connectors. These contacts were heavily oxidized despite its generous over application.

I am totally serious. I will be removing and cleaning each and every connector on my van with this stuff. And treating it with DeOxit Gold or Shield and Apply Dielectric grease after the connector is reseated. I really want to get inside my throttle position sensor and idle speed actuator motor, and 02 sensor connectors.

I want to get more of these precision Swabs. And the CRC QED cleaner or similar, as it is great for flushing and dissolving ugly old over applied dielectric grease and grime before getting the DeOxit on contacts and completing the job the CRC and dielectric grease alone, simply cannot.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

It's neat when a person applies it to a "normally functioning" USB plug and wart milliamps double or signal strength gains a few bars...

Motherboard edge connectors, trailer sockets, flashlight contacts, rotary and striker switch contacts, car antennas, television satellite dish USB cable connectors...

Oh wait, that can't be right...

Some of this stuff has nothing to do with MoPar.

[NinerBikes]

Caig products, buy them here.

Sounds like every new RAM truck should come with a kit of that Deoxiant stuff for under the hood, and every other little electrical nook and cranny.

[landyacht318]

Probably won't happen till January as I'm flying east for the holidaze soon. I'll Deoxit the connector before then, but Until those pins no longer wobble on the circuit board, I will fear the stall.

I want a 100+ watt iron before attempting to reflow solder, I only have a 40.

I'd love to have those gremlins exorcised, as I might have felt better about driving somewhere less crowded for the incredible swell hitting the coastline:

Taken from my driver's seat Yesterday. It was supposed to be raining and howling onshore winds, Instead it was sunny and offshore.

Rainmageddon, run for the hills, panic and go shopping people, just dont stop shopping!!, says the guy who wants a real soldering gun.

Aaaahhhahhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!!

[MEXICOWANDERER]

It'll be nice to see a report that the van has been exorcized.

[landyacht318]

No arguement from me.

I am thoroughly impressed with it and am eyeballing every single connector everywhere and picturing piles of black q tips coming off 'clean' spade connectors that infest the original wiring harness of my van.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Boeing, designated the product as "essential inventory". The Navy has DRUMS of the stuff on carriers for aircraft and electronics. When I splurge my pittance on an expensive item it damned sure better work and I mean WORK!

[landyacht318]

Ok , I'll admit when I am wrong and post it publicly and subject myself to a curmudgeon's derision. No offense Mex 🙂

I rescind my claims that the pins and sockets of my new junkyard connector were pristine upon reinsertion and that Stabilant 22 is a good product for this application.

deoxit vs Stabilant22

But for those who don't click links:

Stabilant is more solid and requires re-application if the connection is disturbed or changed. This becomes very important in high vibration applications (equipment and systems with moving parts, transportation, aviation, etc.).

My Caig kit arrived yesterday, and last night I decided to clean the dirty 14 and 60 pin connectors on the Older ECM.

First I used the CRC QED cleaner to remove all dust and old grease. I even used a bunch of q tips and very small pieces of cotton cloth held with precision tweesers to really get the connectors free of all visible dirt and contamination. I buffed the pins with q tips saturated with the QED cleaner. Man oh man they appeared clean under 565 lumens of LED light, and a magnifying glass, but perhaps a little rough.

Then I sprayed both sets of pins with a light shot of Deoxit spray, the 5% stuff and set it aside. I came back with Q tips after 5 minutes or so and buffed the pins

I went through about a dozen q tips as they first turned grey, then black as the pins went from rough grey/white to polished oily silky smooth chrome as I twisted the q tip back and forth buffing the perimeter of the pins. I did this until the q tips did not darken but stayed pink from the De oxit spray.

The Brass pins on the 14 way connector were not as oxidized and did not need as much loving to become clean and silky smooth, but I figure the new junkyard connector could have dirtied a dozen more q tips after I QED cleaned it, and foolishly and publically declared it pristine.

I still believe the solder joints on the circuit board are compromised, but I will certainly be treating everything, every connector, ever switch, anything electrical which can oxidize with these Caig products.

yesterday i twisted by hand a small screw inbetween the 2 connector halves, and have not had a stall since. Rains and swell has kept me from applying Deoxit to the semifunctional ECM in my Van as of yet, but soon.

Examples of success so far.

The spray has stopped my 3.5 stereo mini plug cords, from phone/mp3 player to stereo from crackling when moved or twisted. They join and unjoin better than new. I can swear my stereo sounds better too. It is so so much easier to insert the plug into the phone, and it just feels right.

My turn signal lever, lately, was requiring more and more pressure to get past the Detente where it holds on its own. I was afraid other lubricants would cause issues if it got on the electrical contacts. Getting deep inside the steering column for precision lubricant application was too much effort. I sprayed the general area of springs cam and contacts with DeOxit. Now it takes half the amount of pressure to move the signal past the detente, and it does not disengage with a loud clank when the turn is completed. The signal indicator illuminates with much less travel and pressure than before. And this improvement makes driving round town much more pleasant as sometimes I feared breaking the lever to get it past the cam to where it would hold on its own, and would hold it just before the cam to indicate a turn.

Apparently some got on my gear selector lever too as that now turns easier.

I Sprayed on my Phone's micro USB connector, left for a bit and excess wiped off, It now takes half the effort to seat the connector, and it feels like new again..

I used a Q tip to clean a 14500 Li-ion battery top and bottom and the receptacles inside a flashlight with rubbing alcohol, as I have always done.

I then sprayed some deOxit on a Qtip and did the same thing and it came off battery black, and another qtip came out of flashlight black.

I have 2 90 degree RG6 connectors to my TV, which is on a swing arm. Sometimes when I move this swing arm the tv loses a strong channel and needs a little manipulation to come back. A few sprays of Deoxit on and in the f connectors and this is no longer an issue. I suspect there is also a signal increase but cannot verify.

I'm simply too impressed with this product. My kit came with 3 small bottles of Deoxit, the Gold and the Shield, along with small tubes of 100% concentrate as well as wipes and some application tools.

I'll be ordering a larger can of deoxit Spray, because I am going to go over every connector everywhere, and my little can is already half gone and I am looking at more and more things I can use it on.

[landyacht318]

This is the older, original ECM.

The only loose pin on this one, is the top right. I can move the pin's tip easily 1.5mm but cannot see any corresponding movement on this side.

The potting did not really fight much, but getting it to this stage was about an hours worth of labor using a dremel, razor and precision sharp flat bladed tweezers.

I'm seeing a lot of Jeep forums where they have the same issues with stalling and power cut outs and stuttering, and their PCMs are much more difficult to get inside of, but a resoldering of these pins is a permanent solution.

But I want a higher wattage iron before attempting

[landyacht318]

Well hoping the deliveryman has a functioning reman'd ECU is one option. A 230$ option.

Another option is resoldering these 14 pins of which at least 4 are suspect. The Caig products are going to go on every connector I have, but the goal is getting these pins firm in the circuit board again. Achieving contact and immobilizing have got me 40K miles, but I can no longer trust it knowing that there is an open contact, just resting in position via pressure, rather than a solid mechanical connection.

How viscous is the d100 dropper anyway??

I think if you were to see the obstacles to dripping d100, stalagmite style, you would recommend not wasting it, unless it can flow like penetrating fluid and completely defeat the purpose of the 3/8 to 1/2 inch of soft squishy potting material it would need to traverse after making a few 90 degree turns around the base of the pin

And the potting material's job is to keep liquids from infiltrating as well as immobilization.

So I'll be pursuing some practice at removing potting, perhaps acquiring a higher wattage soldering iron, and practicing on my older original ECM. If it goes smoothly then I will attempt the same with semi functioning ECM. perhaps I can get the original ECM to functioning again, as the one pin is lucy goosey, but I suspect other issues internally.

And if that does not work, then ordering a new one.

My MPG is not that badly effected. I was able to eek out close to my maximum recorded fuel economy on my latest roadtrip.

Not that that is a number to be proud of. It is a Lead brick pulling a parachute after all.

Thanks for the input.

I'll update with some photos as I attempt to do a proper fix, with solder.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

What I plead is this....my income is around 10K/yr. I cannot afford to screw around with cars that don't stay running or have a gas cap in the shape of a turban. I look at things this way: the cost of both items is equal to 12 gallons of gasoline. If my ECU should go open loop 12 gallons of gasoline is a laugh-a-minute. I would use the needle dropper D100 and drizzle drop-by-drop enough D100 to stalagmite it's way down that'll pin onto the board. Your option of course is to meet the deliverman and sooner or later you might get a "rebuilt" ECU that doesn't catch fire.