Fithwheel air conditioning problem

Thank you all! I will use a water hose and air to clean the coils further. Will see what happens.

Regards

Well there are two coils.. on the cold side (Evaporator coil) I used a soft brush and some compressed air (I have lots of that)

on the Hot side I have used water (Just normal hose pressure) and compressed air, along with ye old soft brush.

So far it has worked well

True short story
Front A/C (13,500 BTU Carrier Air V) was popping the 20 amp breaker that feeds it, Like the rear (15,000 BTU advent air) it is supposed to draw 13.5 Amps.
Confirmed excess amp draw

Went up and cleaned the Condenser (HOT) coils

Back down to 13.5 like it was new.

The only way to check if the connections between the duct and AC unit are bad, is to remove ceiling grill/trim assembly, and then you look up into unit and see ducts. There also maybe a secondary metal panel that needs to come off too.
To check out ceiling registers, you have to remove each registers to check if opening between the duct and hole in ceiling for register is sealed. To seal mine I just used short sections of tape to lap over ceiling and inside of duct. Just make sure that when you are done tape does not extend beyond edge of register trim.

Don't use a pressure washer, it will bend the cooling fins.
I use a water hose, soap, and sometimes a brush to scrub in the direction of the fin.

To remove, with power off, remove the ceiling plenum, disconnect the control wire connector, and let them hang. Most have 4 long bolts (about 5" or 6", remove those and you'll need a bit of help to get it down.

I have pulled the covers off on the roof and cleaned them but it is much easier on the ground. Keeps the dirt off the roof and sides.

In response to wa8yxm , i was up there last week to remove the beginning of a bees' nest. I am wandering how do you clean the coil after you remove the outside cover, without water entering the fiver? I can see inside the fiver with the cover removed!
Can you use a water pressure gun to spray those small "radiators"?
For Dr Quick: I am not sure that I can see where the air conditioner connects to my ducks. Is there a video out there that shows how to do that kind of maintenance?

Thanks

Depending on the age of the trailer, you may have problem with air leakage too. I know on my trailer that the "Cheap Tape" they use to seal the ducts was dried out and falling off. Found out that a lot of air was ending up in the ceiling cavity when I felt air coming out at TV antenna roof control. Took off each air vent and redid the tape with a commercial tape. Also sealed between AC unit and here ducts leave unit. Seems to be working a lot better now.

The proper outlet temp is a function of several things
Humidity (Both inside and outside)
Inlet temp (Both inside and outside)

BUT: here is a thought

How long has it been since you went topside (Up on the roof) Removed the covers (Outer (Shroud) and inner) from the Air conditioner and gave the coils (Both sets) a good cleaning? In my case about five-6 months, but how long has it been for you?

I have, on occasion, had to do major cleaning of the condenser coils (outside or hot ones) to get it working properly.

Very useful information thus far! Lets see if we can get more.

Rick

It's a sealed system, all metal tubing silver soldered together. If it's cooling at all it probably does not need to be charged. Also, these compressors don't seem to fail very often. I'll stick with dirty coils, bad ducting, or unrealistic expectations.

I should add, Chris suggests cleaning every two or three years.

R22 around here is about $50 a pound. It has gone the same route as R12. It is not used in new units.