Fridge only staying cold for 12-14 hours on AC

That's it; You and your possessed fridge are banned from the forum forever! :B

Oh and by the way, welcome to the forum ;)

sounds like a poorer board problem
That's is the board where the heater element is connected

Suggestion: run the thing on propane. Cheap fix

Lower board is a brand new one from Dometic.....Same problem :(

jerseyjim wrote:
Suggestion: run the thing on propane. Cheap fix

Well that's what I did last season but when you pay for a full hookup for 3 months you kinda wanna get your money's worth out of the full hookup ;)

Its obviously loosing power to heating element. New boards can be bad.

Wild Card wrote:
Its obviously loosing power to heating element. New boards can be bad.

That was my thought as well but if I remember correctly even after it quits cooling there is still power to the element....I will have to double check that. I was told that on propane it only has one set temp ( not sure if that's true) but if it is I'm thinking that the thermistor might actually be bad and after it runs for the 14-16 hours that it's not sensing correctly and no longer calls for cooling?? Is that a possibility? If so that might explain why it only has the issue on AC....I've been all over the net and haven't found anyone who has had quite the same symptoms as I have..Very frustrating.

dblack440 wrote:

Wild Card wrote:
Its obviously loosing power to heating element. New boards can be bad.

That was my thought as well but if I remember correctly even after it quits cooling there is still power to the element....I will have to double check that. I was told that on propane it only has one set temp ( not sure if that's true) but if it is I'm thinking that the thermistor might actually be bad and after it runs for the 14-16 hours that it's not sensing correctly and no longer calls for cooling?? Is that a possibility? If so that might explain why it only has the issue on AC....I've been all over the net and haven't found anyone who has had quite the same symptoms as I have..Very frustrating.

WHO told you on LP it has 1 set temp??????? NOT TRUE. The Thermister controls both 120 and LP operation. IF you want to dismiss the board as a cause or make sure the board is a cause, run the 120 element DIRECT to 120 current and see if the refer fails. Now, to think that the new board is defective? Think about it. You have a problem even I have never heard of(38 years), and a new board would exhibit the exact same symptoms? Not a chance. Doug

My thoughts exactly Doug, I could see the a defective board having a different problem but not the exact same problem. And the "tech" at the RV dealership told me that the thermisor only controlled temp on the AC side which I also had a hard time believing ( and still don't) and that's why I don't want to just throw another part at it...The only thing that had me doubting myself was when I sent a long email to Dometic and they were the ones who said it had to be the thermisor because there was nothing left...what really baffles me the most is that if I shut the fridge off totally and restart it the **** thing will cool again for about the same period of time. It makes absolutely no sense. So if I just unplug the thermisor from the board on AC and let it run for like 24 hours it should freeze down correct? Would that help prove anything?

dblack440 wrote:
My thoughts exactly Doug, I could see the a defective board having a different problem but not the exact same problem. And the "tech" at the RV dealership told me that the thermisor only controlled temp on the AC side which I also had a hard time believing ( and still don't) and that's why I don't want to just throw another part at it...The only thing that had me doubting myself was when I sent a long email to Dometic and they were the ones who said it had to be the thermisor because there was nothing left...what really baffles me the most is that if I shut the fridge off totally and restart it the **** thing will cool again for about the same period of time. It makes absolutely no sense. So if I just unplug the thermisor from the board on AC and let it run for like 24 hours it should freeze down correct? Would that help prove anything?

Yes, it would. A Defective Thermister will still Test(Ohm) out to spec. BUT, all it does is sense the evap fin temp. Then sends a signal to the control board to either shut OFF because the temp has been reached or to start a cool cycle. NOTHING ELSE. So, whether it is LP or 120, the refer will respond to what the Thermister tells it. IF it functions on LP, then it will function on 120. Now, that is why I want you to run the 120 direct. Also, I am amazed that Dometic Service would attempt to help you. Their policy is to NOT help diag problems whether warranty or out of warranty unless you are a RV Tech or Service Center. They will help in operation of their appliances, but not diag and repair. Doug