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Fuse converter, or not?

Snowman9000
Explorer
Explorer
Been reading archives, but not clear whether a converter's output should be fused. (This is not about the reverse polarity fuses found on all converters.)

I have a main battery fuse.

The converter can generate current independent of the battery.
But unlike a battery, it is current-limited. The former would suggest a fuse is needed; the latter would suggest it isn't needed, as long as the wiring is sized for the current.

I've looked at manuals for all the major converters. Most don't show any wiring or mention fuses. One shows direct wiring, no fuses.
Edit: I'm talking about a deck mount converter, near the battery.
Currently RV-less but not done yet.
12 REPLIES 12

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Snowman9000 wrote:
Been reading archives, but not clear whether a converter's output should be fused. (This is not about the reverse polarity fuses found on all converters.)



Converter output **IS** Fused, by those very fuses you say this question is not about.. So, there is your answer. (not needed)

However you should have a "main" fuse for the battery (or circuit breaker) roughly the size of your converter unless the generator draws more (Assuming you have one) when starting, mine is 80 amps. Same as the converter.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Explorer II
I do not believe the reverse polarity fuses would blow on a dead short at the output. Most that I have worked with are fused far above their capacity- a 45 amp converter will simply not put out the 60 amps needed to blow the reverse polarity fuses.
-- Chris Bryant

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
As long as the wire will easily handle the full converter rating I would not fuse the main connection. Actually if the main wire is safe, short and in plain sight I would also skip the battery side fuse.

Snowman9000
Explorer
Explorer
ScottG wrote:
The reverse polarity fuses are the fuse for the converters output.
Adding another would be redundant.


Good to know.


As Roy wrote, it needs a fuse or breaker close to the battery for protection for the wires and battery.


OK, as I mentioned, I have that.
Currently RV-less but not done yet.

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
The reverse polarity fuses are the fuse for the converters output.
Adding another would be redundant.
As Roy wrote, it needs a fuse or breaker close to the battery for protection for the wires and battery.

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
The external fuses installed in-line of the main battery cable installation is not there to protect the Converter/Charger unit but to protect the battery cables wiring in case of short circuit at the converter/charger end of the battery cable. Without the in-line fuse close to the battery source could burn down your trailer. Your battery bank will produce a whole bunch of DC CURRENT until the batteries either run down or explode.

I follow these installation techniques around any high current battery cables in both the trailer and truck start battery high current cables distributions.

I have learned along time ago the follow basic installation procedures when working around high current DC cables. It falls under the concept to learn not to burn for me over the years...

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Explorer II
The switchmode converters are inherently output limited, so they do not need output fuses. Theoretically, you can short the output with no harm- the converter just shuts off...... of course, I wouldn't really try it.
-- Chris Bryant

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
First of all, you never NEED a fuse, unless of course you have a short. Are you going to have a short ? That would depend on a lot of things, mostly the quality of installation. If you feel even the slightest possibility of a short circuit happening, fuse it. I myself don't have a fuse inline my stand alone converter. The 0riginal 7345 was not fused either. None of my OEM battery cables are fused either, even the one going all the way to the generator. Many....if not most main battery cables are not fused from the factory,.....maybe because they figure the only way they can short, is in a catastrophic wreck ?? And that's good enuff for me.
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

Snowman9000
Explorer
Explorer
KD4UPL wrote:
Anything hooked to the battery will need a fuse. The battery is capable of delivering hundreds of amps during a short circuit. What if your converter shorts internally? How will it do with 100, 200, or more amps flowing thru the short before your main battery fuse blows?


That's why I'm asking. In my case, the main fuse is 100A, though.
Currently RV-less but not done yet.

Snowman9000
Explorer
Explorer
newman fulltimer wrote:
the converter wires directly into the fuse panel


I should have mentioned, I'm asking about a separate deck mount converter. It's nearer the battery than the panel, by quite a bit.
Currently RV-less but not done yet.

KD4UPL
Explorer
Explorer
Anything hooked to the battery will need a fuse. The battery is capable of delivering hundreds of amps during a short circuit. What if your converter shorts internally? How will it do with 100, 200, or more amps flowing thru the short before your main battery fuse blows?

newman_fulltime
Explorer II
Explorer II
the converter wires directly into the fuse panel