Heat Pump: Electrician Sent 240 volts to my Fiver

[Mike3]

Had a residential electrician wire a 30 amp outlet at home for my RVs. Luckily I had a surge protector hard wired in that protected most stuff. Unfortunately it was his first RV 30 amp and he wired it for 240 amps instead of 120. It blew my convection micowave and the electric side of the fridge. Micro is toast but I think the fridge can be repaired.

Question: Now my heat pump only blows warm air from the bottom of the unit in the kitchen ceiling. Previously it blew warm air from the floor ducts same as the furnace. Might this be due to the electrical issues or is there something else going on that I might can fix? Thanks.

[soren]

diveman52 wrote:
Not much of an electrician if he can't even read what's on the box and the outlet.
Says 120 volt.
At least the 100's I have installed

X2 I have never installed anything other than a 15/20 amp duplex, or matching cord cap without carefully reading the NEMA ratings molded into the device. Had he done so, the "30 Amp-125 Volt-travel trailer use only" markings would of been helpful.

[NinerBikes]

ol Bombero-JC wrote:
This may have been "nice guy's" kinfolk........:W

Thread: The electrician said - OOPS"

~

Good link, Bombero

[ol_Bombero-JC]

This may have been "nice guy's" kinfolk........:W

Thread: The electrician said - OOPS"

~

[dougrainer]

CA Traveler wrote:
Never heard of a "RV MW"? MWs used in RVs are standard home units or maybe commercial units AFAIK.

There are 2 types of Microwave ovens
1. Is indeed RV specific and usually less than .8 cf.
2. The others are over the counter types are the exact same models used in residential houses. Both Microwave and Convection. Most RV specific are the rectangular cabinet built-ins with a trim ring mount. Doug

[CA_Traveler]

Never heard of a "RV MW"? MWs used in RVs are standard home units or maybe commercial units AFAIK.

[j-d]

If what OP has is a micro- or micro-convection WITH range hood and fan, in 24" width, that has to line up with a vent cut into the coach wall. it could be a tough find.

[DrewE]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
An innocent question if I may...

My LG 2.0 cf. stainless steel 1,850 watt commercial microwave cost $622.00 All digital including thermal probe, clock memory backup, and STEEL interlocks.

Are all RV microwaves as expensive as yours? Egad!

RV specific microwaves? Possibly they're that expensive in general, I don't know offhand.

Microwaves that are perfectly suitable for use in an RV and likely identical to "RV" microwaves internally, but don't have "RV" in the part number or have an RV decal on the front? They're available at much more reasonable prices.

[diveman52]

Not much of an electrician if he can't even read what's on the box and the outlet.
Says 120 volt.
At least the 100's I have installed

[Bobbo]

I installed my own 50/30/20 amp pedestal at home so I KNEW it was wired right. And I STILL took a VOM and tested the outlets before plugging anything in.

[j-d]

Try to not allow the insurance to close the case out without some understanding there could be latent damage. You might find the TV works but later find the Bl-Ray doesn't etc. I wouldn't nickle/dime them for a clock radio or such, but doggone, that technician pulled a bonehead move.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

An innocent question if I may...

My LG 2.0 cf. stainless steel 1,850 watt commercial microwave cost $622.00 All digital including thermal probe, clock memory backup, and STEEL interlocks.

Are all RV microwaves as expensive as yours? Egad!

[Mike3]

Update: sounds like I'm lucky. The only damage is the microwave, new is $649 and the electric side of the fridge which should be $150 or less plus $200 for the surge protector. So nearly $1000. The electrician is turning this over to his insurance company.

I just ordered a portable surge protector, model EMS-PT50C made in the US by Progressive Industries. Protects against high & low voltage, open ground, polarity protection, etc.

I was mistaken on the heat pump (senior moment). It works fine and blows warm air thru the ceiling vents as designed not the floor vents which the furnace uses.

We'll see what the insurance man does.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

RoyB wrote:
Hope your residential electrician is licensed and has insurance... All of this is going to add up pretty substantial before you find all of things that may be blown... Your converter is always on so it is most likely toast as well...

Roy Ken

Amen Roy B,

Not to mention stuff that "works" but will last 6 months to a year instead of say 5-years. A surge protector will last a few milliseconds at that voltage then appliances are in their own. Not even a voltage correction device would have helped. Any so-called "electrician" who does this idiotic-grade of screwup should not be fooling with electricity. Accounting or sales would be a harmless alternative. Someone with a valid electrical contractor's license is an electrician. I am legally bound to NOT TOUCH a system because my commercial/industrial license expired decades ago. Fully test EVERY LAST device in the coach that seems to still work. 24/7 for 2 weeks. This will help to root out the-ready-to-fail walking wounded.

[TakingThe5th]

I bet your non-RV electrician thought he was wiring up an old style electric dryer plug which when correctly wired is a 240 volt plug. I always DVM a "new to me" 30 amp source before plugging in.

We once pulled into a campground partially converted from being a mobile home park and a guest was bellyaching to the desk person about his shore power not being right and he also mentioned that he was a certified retired electrician. I was so glad I heard that conversation because someone had totally miswired our converted mobile home service pedestal and I could have fried my eggs well before breakfast if I had plugged in without looking closer. I was lucky.