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MEXICOWANDERER's avatar
Mar 11, 2018

Here Ya Go Landyacht !



https://www.ebay.com/itm/220-AMP-HIGH-POWER-Watt-HOUR-Meter-BIG-WIRE-HEAVY-8-AWG-Solar-Wind-Turbine/232606182993?hash=item362868ae51:g:SgAAAOSwBjdaPewt

NOW READ'S KWH (hours) so you can track Kwh's (HOURS)
longer than any meter on the market.

Wire size matters -

Amps can over-heat small wires


You are bidding on an all in one -
CUSTOM MADE WITH 8g WIRE

OUR WIRE - THEIR WIRE
Ours will take the amps without getting hot

With custom programming and heavy duty parts to take
220 Amps? Like no other meter.
Not the same as any of the others on the market
220 Amp/Volt meter data logger with Heavy 8 Gauge Wire!


Great for analyzing battery charging
Caution: Do not disconnect meter from battery without
first disconnecting wind turbine to prevent voltage surges

This meter is a RARE find with THE heavy 8 Gauge silicon wire

since most meters only use 14G wire and can't take high amps

at low voltages like 12 volts which is common in wind turbines.

Custom Made For The Wind Industry.

BACK LIT LED SCREEN FOR EASY NIGHT VIEWING .

All other meters only have 12G wires

and those can get VERY HOT when used on

low voltage 6, 12 and 24 volt systems!

Make very sure that you buy the only meter on the market

made with heavy 8 Gauge wires. Buy ours or be sorry.
  • While removing the contacts from Powerpole housings is possible, I would not recommend doing it.

    The housings are not getting so hot to get anywhere near the danger territory, andf the extra voltage drop is negated by a slight twiat of the potentiometer.

    It is only when i am trying to keep the maximum amperage flowing that I need to do some pot twiddling as amps taper to keep voltage from overshooting the target.

    So I could cut off these powerpoles off the 8awg, and then destrand them to 10AWG diameter, and use my new powerpole racheting crimper to do a beautiful buttcheek style crimp, and likely lessen the temperature of the powerpole housings at 40 amps continuous, I am just not sure it is worth the time or effort or cost of the powerpoles, to do so.

    I have tried an Anderson powerpole Knockoff, Aden Windcamp. I cannot be sure just yet, but it looks like the contact material thickness is slightly less than the Anderson. I ran out of andersons and do not want to disassemble one of them to put my digital calipers upon to test.

    These powerpole knock offs are 5$ cheaper for 10Pair. They do mate with the Andersons powerpoles, and seem to be applying slightly more pressure on the contacts, as it takes slightly mroe effort to connect or disconnect them.
  • Landy,
    Sounds like you have some resistance at those Powerpole connectors. Can you re-crimp them?
  • When searching with teh IR temp gun for the hottest temperature passing 40 amps at 14.4ish volts, the 45 amp anderson powerpoles on the 8awg, got as hot as 97f in 70f ambient.

    the wires nearby varied, harder to pin down, read from 70 to 91f, and generally got cooler the further away from teh anderson connectors, but one tighter wire bend that should have been far enough away from meanwell heat to not soakany up, was warmer .

    I had another powerpole passing 25 schumacher 'smart' amps,;) and it also got to 97f, but it was connected to a 45 amp powerpole with 10AWG, and that wire right next to powerpole read 101.5f and quickly got cooler as it got nearer the common terminal of my Load 1/2/both/off switch.



    Within a minute it rose to 14.4v at 65combined amps, but over the next 3 minutes lowered to 14.1v and stayed there for 9 minutes before raising to 14.2.

    The AH counter displayed 54Ah from full when I first applied the 65 amps.

    The battery voltage had rebounded to 12.06v, 4 minutes after removing all but 0.2a of load. The load just previous to removal of all loads( but 0.2a) was 13.3 amps and battery voltage was 11.61v.

    The battery temperature raised 7.4f in those 19 minutes of 65 amps, to 70.9f.

    This battery was purchased in late November 2013, and has approximately 750 deep cycles on it, likely about a hundred to about 35% SOC.

    I don't know if I'll be awake when amps taper to 0.45a or less at 14.7v, indicating 100% charge, but it would be very interesting data to accumulate.
  • Im pulling the battery down quickly now and will shoot wires with IR gun later tonight when maxing out Meanwell.

    The 45 amp Anderson powerpoles I used in the connector are among the first ones I ever assembled. I did not have the proper crimper tool for the Anderson 45 amp terminals. Now I do.
    I was not really gettng the comnpression I wanted when crimping as my other crimpers could all too easily distort the contacts where they mate I Would cover the crimp with solder, but my soldering skills then are not what they are now.

    Since I can just turn up the dial a smidge more, the heating and extra resistance are not really any concern. I look at the voltmeter on the battery terminals when I reach constant voltage mode, not the wattmeter close to the MW output.

    The meanwell also has voltage sensing, but I have not bothered hooking it up.
  • In my experience the 8awg gets quite warm at a constant 40 amps, and hotter closer to the 45 amp anderson powerpoles whose contacts are designed for 10AWG max, and the 12 awg got hot enough to be uncomfortable holding on tightly to it, but it never got stinky hot.


    Fascinating...
    OEM wire size for a 130 ampere alternator, 120" run is 8 AWG

    It may be the shunt and connectors are using the wire conductor as a radiator.

    45 amperes 3 feet length 8 ga wire should rise about 2F

    Start IR shooting shunts and connectors. You cannot feel the difference of 5F but a 5F increase in a termination point is a dead giveaway the termination point is the source of heat.
  • I had one version/clone of the watts up, that also read low amperages accurately, I could discewrn No differences in the circuit boards or compnenets of it. I also destroyed one version when soldering the 8AWG to the shunt inside as I bridged the + and - and did not check it before plugging it in.

    The next one I soldered I checked first, saw it too would have made the loud pop on hookup, and saw the solder bridge, and rectified the situation and as far as has been reported, is still working well.

    I really like these little inline wattmeters, but I wish they would all read as low as 0.01 amp accurately, and would count higher than 64.9AH before flipping back to zero.

    But they can be had for as low a 9.99$ on Ebay.
  • i have GT meter stashed away as a spare
    my Turnigy is still working perfectly, reading the charging status of the solar on the Safari

    i haven't reset in in several months, should take the reading and reset it, the next i am there

    i do think the Turnigy is of a higher quality than the GT
  • Thanks for the heads up.

    I saw something similar on Amazon a while back, which is now 'currently unavailable' for about 10$ more, but could not, and cannot justify the purchase at this point.

    My soldering skills have progressed greatly since I modified the 12awg wattmeters to 8awg. Amazing what havng a clean connection between soldering gun output and the tip will do.

    I thought and reported that the silicone wire provided with these was aluminum conductor, but a knife scraped along the stranding indicates it is super finely stranded tinned copper and very very flexible.

    In my experience the 8awg gets quite warm at a constant 40 amps, and hotter closer to the 45 amp anderson powerpoles whose contacts are designed for 10AWG max, and the 12 awg got hot enough to be uncomfortable holding on tightly to it, but it never got stinky hot.

    WindyNation sold/sells a wattmeter version with 8awg leads, just as flexible, and I bought it, but the AH, WH and KWH figures are way way out of whack with reality.

    It also reads a bit high on voltage and sometimes, I have never found any common factor as to when and where it will decide to jump around wildly on the amp and wattage figures and about 0.15v on the voltage. Sometimes it is nice and steady, other times not.

    When it decides to not jump around like a meth addled hallucinating monkey, I have been impressed with its ability to accurately display a 0.06 amp load.

    So, I use it, but if the numbers are jumping around I do not trust volts or amps or watts, and I never trust its AH or Wh readings.

    I see some Drok 100 amp bidirectional Meters that come with a hall effect sensor that one day I might experiment with.

    The two GTpower branded wattmeters that I employ, one has been permanently on my Meanwell rsp-500-15 since October 2014. It only counts to 64AH before reverting to zero. The V and W letters on the far right of the screen are missing half their bodies and have been that way since December '15. It likely has thousands of hours on it at absorption and float voltages as I do noot cycle my battery each and every night, but will use 35 to 65Ah each and every night.

    The other GTwattmeter is a portable. I have 45 amp powerpoles on almost every load, and trust them unless the load is under 0.5 amps, where they will read low, and they will not register under a 0.18 amp load, but above this upto 40amps at least, they read fairly closely inline with my Shunted meter and my clamp on meter.

    Even with 8awg and no Connectors, I'd not trust them to continuously support more than 45 amps, though I do not feel heat coming from the body, only the wires.

    The claimed amp ratings should be considered for brief surges only, in my opinion.
  • 8 gauge carrying 220 amps without overheating hrmmm, the cable is made from a new super conducting copper alloy perhaps?

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